zanthus

when is it....and more importantly where. Also how much. Never been there but I'd like to go. Though with the recent start of the body work (and some other problems still to work out) my z will not be in attendance.

Yes thats right folks, I've finally started doing some of the smaller body work on my 280. I'm starting off with the hood doing the body work and getting it into primer then moving to the doors and fenders. Man working on a hood with a few dents is nothing compared to trying to get a sub woofer box straight.

it really does work thats how I've been driving my z around for months. I kinda lost the ignition key

I know my 280 didn't come with gaskets. Arne, how much of the yellow car is left? I need some replacement panels that I'd potentially like to come cut off like the part of the frame rail in front of where the radiator core support is located. I've got about a 6 inch round whole there that needs replacing on the Drivers side. Still got that?

House of Kolor generally has funky paints in the neon type. www.houseofkolor.com not sure if they will have what your looking for at a price you like but its worth a shot.

Filters were new. I had spark, just no gas. Filters could be dirtier now but not clogged since it started right up after sitting for a little while.

So I just got the car to drive. It normally runs beautifully but on my way to work yesterday i was about 8 miles out and only a half mile from home, and poof it died. Well maybe not poof but it lost power started to studder then just died. So I got to work called a tow and had them drop it off. Went back out about 2 hours after it had been dropped off and tried to start it. After cranking a few times it started right up. It did the same thing on the ride home too, but I went a different way home so I could park at my friends house. When I got there the car died again. Went out today after work and it started right up again. I'm just wondering if my fuel pump might be going out? Anyone have that problem on their 280's? I had already drained the tank flushed the lines put in new injectors and changed the filter so I'm not sure what else would be wrong other than the fuel pump. I was gonna drive it about 40 miles but if I cant even take 9 miles then I'm kinda screwed. As always thanks for the help.

I've got a wiring diagram that I can bring down with me plus the FSM on cd. I think that the car would make it. Assuming that I get my little problem with my front passenger side brake problem dealt with. Are you free this next weekend? I should have it fixed by then. If not I'll let you know.

And probably not too costly. At least less than a new transmission if other problems arise from the one you have.

Well I bleed the brakes again and they worked. I found out after driving for a little while that I have a slow leak in the passenger side somewhere. I'll trace that down tomorrow or next week. I have no headlights for some reason I have yet to be able to figure out, now that it drives maybe I'll make a trip over to someones place and see if they can give me a hand. Any takers? As for the turn signals, that is a whole can of worms that I'm trying to work out. The PO had spliced into that part of the harness connecting the hazzards to the system so I've gotta try and fix it. Its nasty. Oh and I love the way it drives, its really funny to get looks cuz your car is half in epoxy primer half in white Thanks for everyones help. Really

Yes thats right folks I for once in the 15 months I've owned my 78 finally got to drive it. Too bad it was only out of my garage and not anywhere else. I was about to take it on the street when I decided that I didn't like how squishy the brake peddle was so I'm going to bleed the brakes again. And I still don't have headlights or turn signals but what the hay who cares . Atleast I now have a chance to drive it to somewhere who has a little better idea of the electrical than I do. Hurray!

I dont remember exactly what was holding mine on but I was able to just disconnect it from the window regulator and pull..no glue or anything the black rubber things were mounted to the window when I pulled it out. Not sure what to tell you but thats what I did....just pull.

I have one on my 280 but I lengthened it a tad bit because I've got an MSA body kit I'm putting on so it will be right where the front grill of the body kit is. Maybe little higher.

well if what you say is true then I guess its something else I'll have to look at.

Pin 16 and Pin E. anyone got a picture of that? or can explain where it is. I finally have some time and I'd like to get to see if I can get this stuff to work.

inside of the outer shell. You want it to get rid of road noise right? Thats where I would put it. Also easier to install IMHO.

I'm not sure it will mater too much. Just move the hinges when the por-15 gets tacky and it might not flow in between and seize it up. Just a thought.

As far as your door opening hard I'd check your striker on the pillar. The P.O. may have adjusted it to fix the water leak that your now chasing. When you put new rubber in then that rubber is being compacted more than it should. So I'd take your dollar bill and fit it between the door rubber and the roof and pull. If it it difficult to pull out then you should probably adjust the striker. Do it to all sides that have the rubber. You may not need to break anymore handles.

I'll tear into it tomorrow I'm betting I'll have to reflow the solder and I'll probably even just run a new wire now that I have a better understanding of the headlight system. Thanks alot and I'll let you guys know.

I'm just confused how buying a new switch will solve my problem of not having continuity. I'm thinking that Ive got the power wire grounding out. Also on the fuse box it has a fuse for left and right lights not high and low. But the lights them selves are wiried stock for high and low not left and right. Where does it make this switch anyone know? I'm thinking that is where my problem is.

Now by dimmer switch I'm assuming that you mean the switch that turns the high beams on over on the turn signal side? I don't have continuity there. I have it coming from the other side where you actually turn the lights on at. And I have already cleaned the switch (many times) put it together correctly and poof still no low beams. I can run highs to my hearts content but somehow I don't think my fellow Oreginites would appreciate it.

yeah it is but I'd have to put all the body panels back on. I'll see if I can do that this week and let you know. But I don't have turn signals so thats could be a problem. Not if I took highway 99 down though.

No I dont and I can't figure out why. I've got power going into the fuse box and from the switch that turns the parking lights and head lights on but none to the switch that switches the highs and lows. I also have the Hazard switch disconnected because that needs a rebuild. Will that hurt anything?

I'm still having trouble with my lights too. Its very irritating, It seems that the high beams work but the low beams don't. it doesnt seem like the power is getting to the combo switch to get it working on low beams. Am I missing something?

I'd like to know too. My 280 needs a new rear valance and I don't know where to find one and mine is going to be hard to repair.