Matches

To clear up my earlier post; I did replace the vacuum advance on the old distributor, and that did not solve the issue. In the next post after I had installed a rebuilt distributor, what I meant to say was that whatever the gizmo inside the dizzy that the vacuum advance moves was sticking. So problem is fixed. Zcarman: I did a valve job after replacing the distributor and looked at the cams. They are worn, but I don't think all that badly. Valve job went well and yielded good results. I won't bother with this engine much more now that it is running ok. It is a tired old non-stock L24/E88 combo that in my opinion, isn't worth modifying. Perhaps if I keep this car a high compression L28 will be in the future.

I am very certain it was the vacuum advance. Just sticking. The dirty old thing was due for a replacement anyway

I decided to purchase and install a remanufactured dizzy. Problem solved! Thanks everyone!

So it wont move then in reverse or first? Can a gear freeze like that without the other gears freezing? Strange. Is there oil in the tranny?

I really really like Datsuns, but do a search on Craigslist for anything between 60-70k and just see the glorious assortment of high powered exotics and Barret-Jackson muscle cars that come up. Must be a Nigerian.

Does the car move in any other gear? Problems getting the transmission into gear? What causes the car to stall in reverse? The 4 spd will go in, but you may find the gearing unfavorable.

So how do I tell? I pulled the vacuum hose off and sucked on it, I can watch the breaker plate and all that stuff move and will hold so long as I keep vacuum on. I am not sure what a sticking plate would look like. Thanks for the advice.

Cool thanks. So the same condenser for the distributor will function the same as the one for the coil? The connectors are different. Plus, the one on the coil has a mount for the large screw that holds down the coil bracket. Very different from the small machine screw on the distributor.

Adding fuel didn't seem to help. I began by giving the fuel adjustment knobs one turn for the richer and then using the maintenance screw to keep the engine idling. Went for a blast around the block and same misfire. I played with the fuel more after that, trying different settings. No change as far as I can tell. So I just reset the fuel knobs and idle screws with the flow meter. I think now I will re-watch the "Just SUs" video to be sure I remember what I am doing.

Thanks for the reply! Gonna go give that a shot.

Hello all, I have a 1970 with a replaced engine. Pretty common L24/E88 combo. I have Z Therapy round tops in that have been working perfectly as far as I can tell. They are reasonably new, and have low miles on them. I have done nothing with them save minor adjustments to the fuel mix per the instructions they come with. Overall the car runs well. She starts easy, revs quickly, holds a steady idle at around 900 with out support from the idle screws. She runs and drives happily at all RPMs and throttle positions until about 4-4.5k rpms then quite savagely hits bad misfire. I have done a lot of searching on this forum and found a lot of helpful stuff. Here is a quick list of what I have done so far: New vacuum advance New points New coil New condenser New plug wires New ignition rotor New ignition cap New spark plugs New battery New starter Ignition timing at 7* Removed and cleaned engine grounds Tested for battery voltage at coil, good Tested ground resistance at distributor breaker plate, good. I had a Pertronix unit in, and I had the exact same issue. So I swapped back to points just to be sure. Problem still exists. The distributor is old, but I don't know what to look for once it is too old. Should I be suspecting this? Running out of ideas, help!

Great, so it should have no bearing whatsoever on how my engine runs then right? I have the condenser at the distributor in place.

I can't find it in online parts catalogues, or at local parts stores. It looks like a condenser or a capacitor. What is its function? Do they ever need replacing? The part I am referring to is the small silver cylinder attached to the coil bracket, who's blue wire plugs into the positive side of the ignition coil. Credit for the photo goes to another member of this forum.

That is so cool! Nice find