mally002

Well, On Friday I found 797 and today I just bought it. The car runs perfect and despite the pictures looks pretty good. It does need paint and some other minor work but shouldn't be too bad. It has a new MSA 3-2 header, newer clutch, 14" Yokohama tires, and very clean interior. Will change the seat covers back to original as these have the velour insert. Has newer Z steering wheel that will be changed as well as the radio. The dash is original with two small spots, otherwise is great shape. Have the original block as well. Only body damage is the rear valence near the exhaust, it needs to be repaired. Production date is 1/70.....I really wanted to see a 1969 but not going to fret over it. All in all a very solid car that just needs mainly paint and getting a few things back to stock...ie radio, arm rest removed, outside trim, etc. I won't be picking it up till Friday as the shop needed to finish a few items, when I get her home I'll take a few more photo's. Oh yea, RUST......just surface, we went through it today and found nothing major..........:laugh: Z ya, Randy

Will do Carl, should be over that way again on Monday.

Sorry for the lousy pictures your about to see but all I had was my cell phone. Here is number 797, it appears it is waiting on some service as it was in a local repair shop. Very nice Blue interior (which I didn't get a photo). I think it's for sale....

Thanks for the info guys, Every Z I have ever owned never had this kit so I was just curious. Too bad they don't bring $750 like a Porsche 356 original kit would......:eek: PS.......I spelled Original wrong on the main post....duh.........:embarrass:

I was going through a box today that came with the 73 240Z and it had this tool kit in it, (or wheels kit) is it an original from 73 or an aftermarket. There were also some yellow wheel chocks. Are these rare at all, or pretty common. Just curious. Randy

MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!!!!!!! The take away message from all this.............Bleed it 14 times........ It didn't make sense because I bleed the system a million times till all the air was out (or so I thought). This time out of pure frustration I had my son pump the pedal 20 times and hold, then I bleed it. After about the 9th time and my son complaining that his foot was getting tired, the bleeding seemed not to be the issue as there was no air escaping just fluid. I told him to keep going that we were going to do this repetition 20 times.....20 pumps then bleed for 20 reps. I was going to stop at 20 no matter what, so on number 13 again it bleed pure fluid with no air, then on number 14 my son held the pedal and as soon as I loosened the valve a huge rush of air and fluid shot out and then ran smooth. I closed the valve and my son started pumping again and said......"Hey Dad the pedal is harder to push"..........I'll never forget those words, they are burned in my memory.... The clutch is working perfect now so the very first test drive will occur Tomorrow..... AGAIN.....................Thanks to everyone for their input, hopefully one day I can return the favor. Randy

Ok, just got back in and read all the post...First of all thanks for everyone's time, it is much appreaciated. Using Sblakes picture I'll try and explain whats happening. After everything was installed when I would push on the clutch pedal the push rod on the Master would depress and send fluid to the Slave. The push rod on the Slave would move just barely, I could push it in with my fingers but the pedal would not make it move that much, and it wouldn't move everytime just intermittent. The withdrawl lever thus would barely move as well. I can move the withdrawl lever by hand but it does have some resistance. My 73 Slave is different from yours Steve, it is not adjustable. I did try and adjust the Master's push rod or clevis, and that is when it popped it off the whole cylinder, locking ring and all. When I had everything connected earlier when you pressed on the pedal fluid would squirt out pretty good at the disconnected hose that would go on the Slave (I disconnected it to make sure fluid was being delivered) It all appeared to be functioning normal, but the Slave push rod would not move that much....it's new, could it be bad? I'm going back out there in a few and reconnect my master and start over. Once everything is connected if I leave the Slave dangling, or not bolted on and push the clutch pedal should the push rod be moving quite a bit. Thanks again, film at 11:00. PS.....Will be happy to give anyone my number if they think it would help instead of typing.

You lost me.....the clutch fork is moving the piston, but there is no resistance. The car is a 73, I just tried to adjust the fork by turning it in and when I let the clutch out it pulled the whole piston and locking ring off....... Now I have to pull the whole master back off and reattach the piston.....This car is haunted and hates me......(where's the scrap yard, maybe the car heard me and will start behaving). So, in a nut shell here's the deal: New Master, Slave, Hoses, and Fluid. After the frustration of attaching the fork on the inside of the car when you press on the clutch pedal there is no resistance. Bleed the system several different ways and no resistance. Tried adjusting the interior fork on the master piston and the first time I tried it it pulled the locking ring off and piston off. When everything was on the car I could verify that the fluid was being transfered from the master to the slave, I could verify that when the pedal was pushed the fork was pushing the rod into the master and causing fluid to travel to the slave. I could verify that when I turned the bleed valve on the slave that air was expelled. But non of this mattered as there never once was resistance to the clutch. WHO WANTS A 240Z............j/k of course. Soooooo, I don't know what else to do.............. Taking a break for the next two hours and taking my son to the gym to work out some frustration....Hope he lets me win in Basketball.

Yes Sir......

Hey John, After I installed the new master I filled with fluid and had my son push the pedal 20-30 times, then I turned the bleed valve on the slave to purge the air. We repeated this numerous times. I then used clear tubing from the bleed valve on the slave and ran it into fresh fluid and repeated the procedure, air would come out then steady fluid. After all of this at no time did the resistance to the clutch change. Am I doing something wrong? I will admit I have never bleed or installed a slave and master cylinder before.

Got the new Master on, the new Slave on, new fluid, new hoses, and the same result.....Good thing I spent $100 to do nothing. The clutch still has no resistance except for the spring bringing it back up, you can push the pedal down with your finger. I pulled the slave back off just to make sure it was getting feed, it is and when the slave is back on the push rod doesnt move that much...is that normal, could I have a bad slave. This thing really has me confused. What next.....$85 an hour at the shop I guess. quick edit....the new master matched right up with the old so I didn't reuse the rod. Steve when you say adjustment do you mean to adjust the pedal linkage, right now it's back all the way on the threads, if I turn it in it pulls the pedal toward the floor. Also when I depress the clutch it is moving the master rod about an inch with no resistance, should it be moving more?

Yea, you caught me enjoying some work......I really had a bad day on Monday... The old rod does move about an inch, so hopefully the inside is shot and the new master will bring everything into focus. I do have a return spring already installed, but it didn't matter how many times I pumped the clutch or bleed it the resistance never changed. I'll let you know tomorrow if it works.

Thanks guys, I got the master cylinder off and ordered a new one. I filled the old one up after it was off and pressed the piston....got a few squirts but nothing steady. I put my finger over the hole that feeds the line to the slave and again pumped the piston and noticed it did provide suction on my finger and then would give a pretty good squirt for one or two pumps, then nothing. Does it sound like its bad? I have no idea, but since it will soon have a new master cyl and slave cyl surely it will work then. Here's a picture showing what I covered up in Red, it seemed to pump ok but I guess there is no way of testing the old one??....maybe the pistons inside are bad.

Ok, I lied. I said I was going to walk away from the car for awhile, but it's raining today so the only thing to do was work on the car. I installed a brand new clutch slave cylinder and bleed the system and the clutch pedal is still as limpy as an over worked porn star. To me it looks like the issue is with the withdrawl arm...(I hope thats the right term) When the clutch is pumped the arm just barely moves. When I removed the new cylinder and pumped the pedal the rod coming out of the plastic shroud just moves a little. I can move the withdrawl arm with my fingers, and then when everything is bolted back up and the clutch is pumped the arm just barely moves again........There is just absolutley no resistance at all. Any thoughts. Randy

Arne, yes my 71 is in almost perfect condidtion, this 73 was going to be my "lets learn mechanic skills and more indepth engine work" car..... I figured I couldn't really hurt it anymore, and actually got the carbs and intake manifold installed and got the car running pretty smooth. But now the clutch, various leaks, stripped bolts, and other issues keep popping up so it's one step forward and twenty-two back........Again that patience thing. Could be a knee jerk reaction, so I'm going to let it sit for awhile and see what happens. The issues lately make the TR6 look like the most reliable car ever built.....:laugh: But if someone wanted the car I would sell it. Thanks for the input. PS...Carl thanks for the tips on the clutch.

Thanks for the input fella's, You guys may be right, but my 42 year old brain is having a hard time figuring out some of this mechanical stuff. It just seems as soon as I actuallly figure one thing out three more go wrong that are more complicated..... I was just hoping this "learning car" would have been a little more enjoyable. I have always done interior work and cosmetic refurbs and enjoy that aspect so much, I just assumed the mechanical phase would be as rewarding....so far it hasn't been. Think I will just let the old girl sit for a few days and also call Jim's brother.(Thanks for the heads up Jim, I appreaciate it.) Z ya Randy PS.....Dave, your killing me with the leaving your men on the battlefield .....point taken........

Zhead, it still needs more work besides the clutch slave and I just dont think I'm up to it. As Rick said I was going to use it for practice so I could "master" these mechanical skills, but I've found out I dont have the knack for it......or the patience. The body will need some work too, here is the worst of it. Way beyond my skill level. (ok, the floors I could handle, but not the firewall or inner fender) Here's a link to more pictures if your bored.... http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t119/mally002/

Well, The last 4-5 weeks have brought me to a conclusion......I am a driver not a wrencher. I don't mind the basics and really thought I would enjoy tearing down and rebuilding this car......but.....I don't. I think some people just have this skill and passion, and I wish I did, but my passion is sitting behind the wheel and doing the interior work. I'm actually glad I figured this out now than later. So with that being said what should I do with this 73 240Z. The car does start and run, but can't drive it because the clutch has no resistance. Parting it would probably bring the most dollars, but I hate to do that to a running (kind of) car. If I part it I would let the board know first before the wonderful Ebay. Anyway, Just looking for opinions..... Thanks, Randy

Well, I know lately I have been all over the board asking questions and now I have another. It seems as soon as I figure one thing out another goes wrong. I finally got the carbs worked out (ok, not entirely) but now that the Z's running I wanted to take it for it's first test drive only to find out that the clutch is unoperative. The pedal has absolutley no resistance at all, I pumped it at least 200 times with no change. I looked for signs of leakage and found none, and the fluid is topped off. I looked down near the bottom where the slave cylinder is and it is also dry, but when the clutch is pushed in there is no movement at all at the cylinder. I tried moving it and no luck. My 71 has a return spring and this 73 must be internal, but shouldn't the metal bar move that goes up into the case? I have not bleed the system yet, would you try that or go ahead and replace the master and slave. Is there a way to check the slave or get movement? Again......THANKS! I'll donate some more money soon to the site, sorry for all the questions lately but I'm learning a ton and have basically no mechanical experience. My 42 year old brain still has room though...........

You guys are good.....It was the float valve. Engine fires right up now, although it sounds like an F-14 ready for takeoff, I have never heard a Z this loud and the fan is pushing alot of air. Choke is still sticking and my clutch is mushy, but at least it is now running, thanks again for everyone's input.

I'm going to attack it again on Sunday, taking in all the advice...Thanks for all the input. If you see a thread tomorrow labeled !@#$!@#$!#!$#!## you'll know I didn't fix it.......:sick: Also, is the fact that the coil was getting Hot an issue or is that normal.

I did some searching and found lots of different info, but most was related to no spark. Here's a brief update and my problem. 1973 240z with roundtops.....(Thanks Tom) Over the last two weeks I have done the following: Drained all old gas and blew out the lines, new mechanical fuel pump, new filter, and plugs. Hooked up new intake manifold with the roundtops and attached all hoses, etc. Put 5 gallons of fresh gas back in and went for start up. Pulled choke and it fired up, ran at a very high idle for about 25 seconds then died. Tried restarting and it hits but wont run. Sprayed some starter fluid and it will start but then dies. Pulled off the fuel lines to the carbs and turned engine over, fuel spurts out. Whats the next step, anything I should try? I assume it's a fuel issue but everything to my non-mechanical mind look good. Thanks for any help. Quick edit.....I just pulled off the top of the carbs and noticed the rear carb was dry so I removed this piece..(see picture as I don't know the name, it's circled in Red). When I removed this piece it was dry also so I put a capfull of gas in there. The engine fired right up and ran for almost 2 minutes.....then as I eased the choke in it died, and now it won't even fire with starting fluid. The struggle continues. Also I noticed the coil was very warm, is that normal. I think I'm done for the day, maybe watching football will restore my brain. Randy

Johnny and Arne, Thanks for the input and the pictures. Johnny, I did buy a filter but the end was way too big, where did you get yours? PS, Arne I do have the original air cleaner, I just havent attached anything yet due to the occassional starter fluid squirt.

Thanks Bruce, I wished I could zoom that picture in some more, but it does help. If you don't mind a complete newb question.........:nervous: where is the pcv valve located? I checked my manual with no avail. Here is a current picture of the engine I've been working on, would you or another member please point out what needs to be addressed...also where that dang pcv is? Also in picture 2 are these black hoses needed, there was also a plug in wire that I don't think is needed...any thoughts. Many thanks, Randy (The mechanic.....NOT!)

OK, Thanks to many of you on here I got the carbs, intake, hoses, etc all back on the 240 but do not have these items installed. Non-return valve Throttle opener control Servo diaphram Solenoid valve EGR control valve Flame trap The car will start and run but then eventually dies. I have searched alot of engine pictures and some don't have most of these items on. What if any of the above need to be installed, or if all above is left off is that ok? Sorry for all the questions lately, but it is a great learning experience for me. Wish I would have taken those auto classes 25 years ago in high school.