mally002

Mine has 10w 30......should I drain and refill with ATF or is the 10/30 ok? I did remove each dome and clean, and then filled with oil. Both cylinders move up and down with ease, but after the oil was added it has resistance which I assume is normal. What will happen if I over filled the dome's? To me it's hard to get each carb dome with the exact same amount of oil. Do you guys use the lower mark on the thumb screw or add so many cc's. If a set amount when empty what is it. Thanks,

Thanks Guys, Tom, I think it's more my entry level skills that are the problem....:stupid: Thinking back you did tell me about the oil, I'm just so new at carbs I wasn't sure exactly how these worked. I really do appreaciate the SU's, but if you have a spare engine in perfect condition feel free to ship it to me.... It's all becoming a great learning experience, I just wish my Haynes manual or the restoration book had more details on doing engine work...any recommendations on another book? Again thanks for all the advice....and the carbs Tom. Randy PS....ATF?

Ok, after you quit laughing help a non-mechanic out with hopefully a simple question...... I just (finally) got the roundtops on the 73, After getting everything hooked back up I went for the first start, wouldn't start so I pulled off the air cleaner to shoot a little starter fluid. After pulling off the air cleaner I noticed that when looking into the carb you see a metal cylinder on one that you can move up and down with your fingers and the other one is open, the cylinder is up and you can't move it. I admit I know nothing about these carbs, I was in hopes of just bolting on and starting...sort of a plug and play if you will. I know that one of these is wrong.....but which one....help please. If this makes no sense I'll try and get a picture.

Hey guys, Thanks for all the info....Here's another picture and wanted to ask another stupid question. I have noticed several 240's that don't have these parts put back on, my 71 has them, but I was thinking of not putting them back on the 73 since I've changed the intake and carbs already. Question is will the car suffer at all if I leave these out. Bobc, I will most likely shoot you a PM as I'm not really sure where the fresh air pipe is......I know, I know, I'm such a Rookie at mechanicals, but I'm using this car as my "trainer"..... Thanks for all the advice fellas................ oh yea, since these carbs have seperate air filters what do I do with the hose from the valve cover, it has nowhere to connect?

I have been following this thread and am going to ask a stupid question....maybe.... I really like the bendpak lift and after looking at the specs it has a total height of 100" or 8.3 feet. It looks like when a vehicle is on it the car is raised to about 60" or 72". I have a 9 foot ceiling in my garage, so wouldn't this lift work if I just raised the car to 5 feet....does that make sense, it would still leave 4 feet to the ceiling. 240's are what...51 inches or so tall (that a guess), so in theory couldn't you use this lift with a 9 foot ceiling. Does this makes sense...You would just have to be careful when raising the car so that you don't crush the top on the ceiling and still have room underneath. If this will work I'm all over it...

So do you think it's ok to connect the two with a piece of hose? It had metal tubing before, does that matter....Wait here's what I took off because it would not work with the new setup. I was just going to go with a piece of hose if it doesn't matter. Thanks guys,

Alright, I just got the new carbs and intake bolted up. Since I've moved from the 1973 version to the 1971 hear are my questions: 1. Can I replace the metal or copper tube that would not mate up with a piece of hose? The original was metal or copper and ran around to the other side of the engine and into another fitting, does it have to be replaced with metal or copper or will hose or line work. When I removed it alot of antifreeze drained out. Please see picture's with Yellow circle's. 2. Since there are soooo many extra pieces left over I am assuming I can just remove all this crap. There is a pulley and various hoses. Please see picture with Red circle. I'm using my 71 as a refrence, and it does not have all these extra "parts" but wanted to make sure it wouldn't affect anything. Thanks for any help, Randy

Looking forward to the pictures fella's......Wish I was there.

Bob, I feel your pain. I have too many to list, but just about all of them were because I got distracted over a phone call or was just plain tired.... At least you kept your sense of humor.

Thanks for the reply Seppi, I was able to mark the spots today and will hopefully get them drilled this week(I have to go buy the bits). Do you guys know if the area right under the tray is a major structural point, I have a cantelope size hole that you can see your shoes thru.....Is it ok to just weld in a patch of sheet metal? Thanks, Randy

Actually my tray is fine, needs a good cleaning but very solid. I just need to remove it to get to the area under it. Thanks Arne, I was under the impression a spot weld cutter was some type of actual welder.....so at least that is cleared up. E, thanks for the locations on the picture, I'll go look again in the daylight. Bob, if you ever figure this stuff out don't forget your Rookie friend here in TN. Maybe you and I together might be able to fix these darn things....... Thanks guys, Randy

I did some searching about removing the tray and what I found involved a "spot weld cutter". For us newbies who do not own this tool what is the best way to remove the tray. What few hits I got said something about the spot welds being drilled, I looked all over the tray and don't really see where these would be...am I just missing something very obvious? On the side of the tray it looks like I could pry on it but I don't want to bend the tray, as I need to reuse it but I do need to get to the big hole under it. Sooooo, how do I get this thing out with simple man tools......:stupid:

You guys Rock.....thanks for the advice. I finally got everything off and just have one last question. (yea right) Should I plug the holes with something temporary until I put the new carbs on, and do I need this bar circled in the photo. Finally, when you guys talk about the air injection tubes, are they also in this picture and it is ok to remove them? And the other Red circle, what is this piece, it was all rusted and broke like balsa wood. Thanks again, I'm using this car as my "learner" as I'm trying to increase my mechanical skill......Right now I'm just below Rookie....:nervous:

Thanks Carl, it's the intake manifold I cant get off. All I'm trying to replace is the old intake manifold and replace it with the new setup. Am I going about this the wrong way? I'm just trying to replace the flat tops with the round tops, I was in hope that the old intake would come right off and I would just bolt the new one on.

Guys, Was going to do the swap today on the 73 carbs and have ran into a snag. I have removed all the bolts, cables, hoses, etc but can't get this old unit off...any suggestions. I have never done this before so any help would be appreaciated. Also, the new setup looks like it doesn't have as many "parts" is this right for a round top setup...Thanks for any help and a big thanks to Tom for the new carbs. When I say extra parts I mean after everything is put on it will look like some pieces are not needed.....does this make sense? Randy

Thanks Dave, the floor currently just has three coats of sealer in a clear finish, in about a month or so it will get another treatment that includes an Epoxy coating. I'll see how it holds up and let you know in a few weeks. The rally poster was when I drove the 240 back in.........wait, sorry I was dreaming again.......I saw it on EBay not too long ago and was the winning bidder. Diseazd.....You called it, the wife got a VW Beetle Convertible (used of course) that she has wanted since they came out. I pushed for a Mini Cooper (more manlier), but she wanted the bug. I have to wear sunglasses, hat, fake beard, etc if I have to drive it in fear of my manhood being questioned..... j/k for those guys who drive a beetle vert.

....I love the comments, at least you didn't call the Porsche a VW.... I will get the 73 in the cave before too long. Still have the fridge in the main garage, so if your in the Knoxville area drop by for some hanger flying and COLD drinks. Right now the loft is just storage, when the budget allows I'm thinking of making it a finished area, my 17 year old has already claimed it as his new bachelor pad......I don't think so. your cave looks great sblake.... Z ya, Randy

Finally finished the garage addition, I say finally but it only took 5 weeks. Now comes the hard part which is moving in and trying to get everything arranged. Two cars fit perfect with plenty of room to work and move around, but when I add the TR6 it gets just a tad crowded. Hopefully I can spend the weekend getting things organized and putting the new carbs on the 73.

Great find.....keep us posted on your progress.

Looking Good Doug, Sounds like you have a great shop to work with.....Ask them to re-locate to Knoxville....:classic:

Like the others I'll have to find my old boxes of pictures and see how they scan. I did find one of my old 1970 240Z, this was my second 240 that I owned. Hopefully I can find pictures of my first one, a blue on blue, unfortuantly it was totaled after only three weeks of ownership.......74 year old lady rearended me at 65mph......

I'm really surprised that your car didn't break $3500 on Ebay, I don't know anything about it but it sounds like it doesnt need much....or does it? My 1973 went for $11,000 on Ebay, obviously not a low vin or anything speacial, just a very clean original car. If I had not just bought this other 73 I would seriously consider buying the 69 car that Carl posted. Think they will trade for a 73.........

Hey Steve, Thanks for the input. Greg (contractor) has done a really great job, by far the best contractor I have ever worked with in all my building ventures. I doubt he goes out of state, but if he did I would highly recommend. Are you in the market for a new garage? If so let me know and I'll give you my costs so you can make a comparison with quotes in your area. Z ya Randy

Thanks for all the suggestions, It is not a car I plan on keeping for a very long time, it is going to be my fall/winter project that I'm hoping will provide me a better understanding of how to do more advanced mechanical work. I have never rebuilt and engine and I'm hoping this will be my "learn as you go" car. I also want to learn more about body repair, so I may get someone over here to teach me some basic welding, if so I can go that route with the floors. I was thinking that the holes wern't bad enough to warrent new floors, but it seems they do qualify. That's what I love about this board, there are so many folks out there with so much more experience that see's issues I don't. Thanks again. PS....Walter I love the 1000 rivets comment..........:laugh: