mally002

That is the only draw back, sometimes it is near impossible to catch Roger. I only live 20 minutes away and have a hard time pinning him down. When you speak with him make sure you set up a time to meet especially if your driving that far. Good luck.

+1 regarding Roger at ZBarn.

Top up driving nothing beats my 1971 240Z....... Top down driving nothing beats my 1971 TR6.......ok, so it leaks oil, fluid, and anything else thats liquid and my electronics are not waterproof, but it's hard to beat in the Spring and Fall.

Ditto Steve, my check books ready to go all day long at $13k for a #1 car. FYI.......Several months back my car went for $11,000 and it was a #3 car, Thus going much higher than the CCMR values.

Hey folks, I know there is allot involved in answering this question but what kind of cost are associated with rebuilding your engine....(240Z) Just a general idea is all I'm looking for. Also not me doing it but a paid shop or mechanic. Thanks, Randy PS......My engine is fine, I'm just curious.

Hey guys, Thanks for the info....I can be driving the car for 30-45 minutes and still have the same problem. Last night my wife and I took the Z to a cook out near the tail of the Dragon...easily 45 minutes one way and at various times I would try and ease the choke in and everytime it would run rough and "buck".......pull back on the choke and runs normal. I'm going to try and tinker with it again today.....so if anyone has any suggestions let me know.

A few weeks ago I posted about my vapor lock issue and mentioned the choke problem as well, any other thoughts on the choke....the vapor lock hasn't been an issue, but of course the temps are back down in the 80's again but this stupid choke is driving me crazy. It's a stock 1971 240Z with no mods. When first starting the car I pull the choke all the way back and the car starts right up, no issues. After driving for awhile everytime I push the choke in the car starts "bucking" and "sputtering" pull back on the choke and it runs just fine. Of course with the choke pulled back, everytime I come to a stop or slow down the engine idle is pretty high, but I can't push in the choke because then the car runs like CRAPOLA.......:sick: Also the gas smell is much more extreme keeping the choke fully engaged. I checked the cables, and everything is how it should be. Also on the air filter the selector switch is on Summer....but would that really matter? Do my carbs need to be rebuilt? Also....FYI I did add a new fuel filter yesterday....no help.

Thanks for the great information....I really had no idea about the these rare early one's. This is why I love this forum............

Hey Mike, Take a look at my old 240Z emblem, it is some type of metal and pretty heavy. This one came off my very first 240 that I bought back in 1983...It was a 1970 model, but can't find any old records as to the VIN# I assume this was from the factory, can anyone verify if it is. Take care, Randy

Tach appears to be fine, very stable. Once I got it started it was great, it ran smooth unless I pushed the choke back in, it would hesitate and stumble and then as soon as I pulled back on the choke it ran great......I ran it the rest of the day with full choke and no problems. It seems weird that after 20 minutes of driving pushing in the choke causes rough,stumbling engine. After doing some searching it does seem like my starting problem was VL....but the car had sat for 45 min. I'll check on the pump Monday. Thanks guys.

Hmmmmm, I'm not sure on the pump I'll have to go look, but thinking it's mechanical. I appreaciate the input Steve.

I'm not sure if this wonderful heat wave has anything to do with my question, but here goes. 1. After driving the 240 today in 96 degree heat I stopped for about 45 minutes and when I returned it took about 6-8 attempts to get the car started.....It would just keep turning over, hit a few times, then stall out...This has never happened before. 2. Since it has been very warm my car will not run smooth unless I keep it fully choked...Even after it's warmed up if you begin to push the choke back in the engine runs really rough, like it's missing and hesitating. I'm a rookie on mechanics so any help would be appreaciated. Thanks, Randy

Ditto, I run Super Unleaded...91 to 92 with no problems in my 1971 Z.

I'm glad I was able to help push you over the edge.....:classic: Thanks for your comments, what Z did you wind up getting..any pictures. Also thanks Zero for the advice, I had no idea it could affect the clear coat. PS...A quick edit....JerseyJoe, just found your car in another post...It is really nice looking...Glad you found an Orange one.

The Black side stripes would look really good on your car Arne......

Hey Mike, Maaco must do the same deals at all their stores, the only "special" was for the lower end paint job. Mine was broken down to include the base/clear...which is the most expensive one they do, and then extra for the sanding, hole repair, and misc dings. I would only use Maaco for the base/clear....I think you'll have trouble with the lower end paint. PS.....Arne, the car looks GREAT!! I must have missed the post in body and paint....

Arne....Where are the pictures..... Goose, you are going to love Crossville. You will be about 1 hour away from the Maaco, they are the only one in Knoxville. There are are several club members in Crossville, and the local meetings are here in Knoxvile. Here's a link if your interested. http://www.automedic.org/smzcc/ Tomo, as per Bre-240Z.......yes. However I let the glass company handle the front and hatch. rdefabri....If you like the Panasports check out MSA, they have the Konig Rewinds that look just the Pana's for half the price....16x7 run about $525 I think.

Thanks fella's It's more of a weekend driver, but still no reason to go nuts...... Steve, I'll trade you the 6 for your newly restored Z....:nervous: Maaco did do the hole repair, i'll try and shoot a picture of it later. As far as prep, I did not do any sanding, just removed everything and dropped it off....Then 8 days later...Bam it's ready. Of course this shop just opened so I think It was only me and a few others, so they worked on it everyday. When I picked mine up there was another "car junkie" there dropping off his 1971 Dodge Charger, he had done much more of the prep work than I did, and had his ready for paint, gonna try and swing by there next week to see how his turns out. I wouldn't let the name Maaco scare you away, I thought they did a fine job.

I got my 1971 240Z back today from Maaco, In an earlier post I had mentioned that I was going to give them a "test run" and see how it turned out. The car did need one hole repaired, and some small surface dings but otherwise it was a straight forward sand and paint. I pulled off everything myself, and removed all the interior panels as well. I'm going to give Maaco an A- for the job......I have found just two issues where there is a small "spot" and one very small run, but when it gets buffed again I think it will take care of it. When I did my 73 it was over 5k, and the car looked great, but it needed more rust repair and other body work. This job set me back $1,362.46 For the money I am VERY pleased, my car could have gone another 10 years without paint and was a great 5 footer.....now it looks almost perfect. I drive my cars all the time and really couldn't see doing a 6-10 thousand dollar paint job.....What would that price have gotten me......a car I would be afraid to park and drive. Is mine a show car....nope, but for my local shows and drive outs it's now one of the nicest looking in Tennessee. Here's some pictures......0h, and hopefully I'll get the side stripes back on next week. Z-ya, Randy PS....It took 8 days and is a base/clear coat in 907 Green.

Thanks Guys, Deesz, yes that makes sense, and Weasel thanks for the pictures. I got them back on......... Many Thanks.

OK, I'm an idiot.....I'm starting to put all the exterior lights, bumpers, etc back on the car and I cant remember if the front marker lights go with the raised end toward the front of the car or face toward the rear. Are both the same, or does one markers raised edge go toward the front and the other side go towards the back? does this even make sense. I tried looking for some pictures but can't zoom in enough to tell. Thanks, Randy

I guess the bottom line for most Americans is they don't really care..... It's us "Car Nuts" that give a Damn,,,,,er Datsun. But your right Jonny, most people don't understand (or care for that matter). Now back to your regular scheduled program.................. PS............Soylent Green is People.......:sick:

Awhile back I had problems with fumes with the windows down, mine went away after a muffler change and sealing a few spots. Today I drove the Z about 8 miles to the paint shop, my wife was following me as I had removed all the exterior trim, bumpers, lights, interior plastic, etc. It was UNREAL how bad the fumes were as soon as I rolled the window down. It just goes to show you that if you don't have all those areas sealed then you are going to have fume issues. Since I have all this off, when I get the car back from paint I'm going to re-seal everything and replace all the gaskets. I'm also going to use the sound proof stick on sheets under all the plastic trim. Even though mine went away I'm going to make sure it never comes back. If your still having fumes, I bet if you pull off all your interior plastic you will find some areas that need to be sealed.

OK, Correct me if I'm wrong....but there technically was never a "Blunder".....Didn't DATSUN begin in 1911 by Masujiro Hashimoto who needed funds to get the company off the ground and used the first initials of the "money men" to honor them...........thus....DAT..(Kenjiro Den, Rokuro Aoyama, and Meitaro Takeuchi)......which became datson, which became datsun. It wasn't until 1933 that they were operating as NISSAN. So how can you "hide" who you are by using the name Nissan, when you have been producing Datsuns since 1911?

I had just what you needed.....sorry the funds wern't there, but your right timing is everything. Your Z will find you when the time is right, patience is the key. Good luck, Randy.....(Mally)