EarlyZed

Steve, If you search for an earlier thread "Working on Floor Pans" by Jimmy240z you'll see some projects that sound similar to the one you are about to embark on. Both Jimmy and I used the floor pans from Charlie Osborne.

Follow up pictures...

I went through this project last year. I cut out the old panels and had a shop weld in the new replacement pans from Charlie Osborne. The PO had used fiberglass replacement rocker panels so these got replaced too.The series of attached pictures (in 2 posts) may help show where additional metal was used to tie in the floorpans. The final pictures should help keep you going. Good luck!

Thanks! That is exactly the description I was looking for! Everything else is so close now. I might even get it out for a cruise this weekend! Randy

These are the small seals that fit to the door window frame and door body metal. I have attached a pic I found on ebay. Thanks, Randy

I am puzzled as to how to fit Upper Corner Door Seals. They may have came in marked bags, but I now have two in hand and must guess at which is left and right. Does anyone have a good description or picture of exactly how these fit (and how to tell left from right)? Thanks, Randy

Does anyone out there have any interest in an adapter to plug a later ignition switch (1 3/8" diameter) into an early series 1 ignition lock assembly (1 1/8" diameter)? In my struggles with a bad switch I talked to a machinist about building an adapter. He figures he could build such a device for about $50 or $60 each -if he was fabricating a dozen or so. So are there 11 people out there that might be interested? Let me know if you are interested and I'll follow up on the idea. Thanks, Randy

The switch! I walked all the circuits and they tested fine. I tested the switch in-situ with some jumpers and sure enough, it was bad. Using my replacement switch it went vroom on the first try! So with much embarrassment I have to admit I messed up in my original post; I must have tested the same switch twice! (They sort of looked alike until I got out the paint stick and labeled them!!!) Thinking forward to the day when my junkyard switch fails, I took a handful of parts along with me to a machinist I know. He figures he could put together an adapter to fit between the Series 1 lock (1 1/8" diameter) and the later ignition switch (1 3/8" diameter). You could then buy an ignition switch to fit your original ignition lock rather than the ignition and lock. He wasn't too interested in spending the time to AutoCAD the design to spin 1 out, but figured if he did 10 or so he could save on his set-up time and do them for about $50-$60 each. If there is enough interest he said he'd run one up for me to ensure it will fit. Might anyone have an interest in such an adapter?

I'm starting to understand it all. I'm thinking both switches might be good. Geezers file Lastscan.jpg looks to show the BW connecting in the start mode. The genesis of this switch is a little shaky. I was originally thinking my switch was bad and went to a locksmith to get a key cut for a later model lock/switch combo and he pulled an old lock with switch out from the parts bin in the basement. Someone had labeled it Mazda but he swore it was an early Datsun set. It is oh so close but not quite. The lock fits a steering column perhaps 1/8 inch larger than the Z’s. The switch is physically interchangeable. This raises an interesting idea, if indeed it did come from a Mazda, might old Mazda ignition switches be available to fit a Z? I will go with Switch 2 and start tracing/testing my wires. I’m not sure if I can get an evening in the garage this week so I may not be able to do much until Saturday. This car has been a work in progress. New floorboards, paint and interior were finished late last year. Starting and rough running problems vexed me so I took it to a mechanic who diagnosed a few issues, not least of which was a worn distributor that would spin in and out of true. He installed a Mallory electronic distributor and as I understand things, bypassed the ballast resistor with a jumper wire. He also diagnosed my START problem as the ignition switch. The tach does work. Thanks everyone for the guidance! I'll keep you posted.

Yes. It only catches when the key is released. I reviewed my wiring diagram and I messed up a bit on my original post. Switch 2 looks good. Switch 1 has contact on BW which doesn't match the wiring diagram for the START position. I am using the Haynes wiring diagram. The diagram shows the Run and Start circuits recombining before being routed through the tach. Does it make sense that I have a problem on the start circuit before this join? (BW wire)

I have a series 1 (8/70) with some starting problems. The start position does not provide any spark! The starter motor is healthy, but the car will not start until I drop the key back to the run position. A couple attempts and it zooms to life. I have tried a second ignition switch (junkyard replacement) to no avail. It's possible both switches are bad. Does anyone have a reliable test method for these? I ran the switches through their positions and got the following closed circuits. Switch 1) ACC: WR LR __ __ __ RUN: WR LR __ BW __ START: WR __ BY BW GW Switch 2) ACC: WR LR __ __ __ RUN: WR LR __ BW __ START: WR __ BY __ GW Everything made sense; switch 2 was missing BW on START! Funny thing though, the symptoms didn't change. Neither switch will fire the car in the START position. Is this a proper test for the switches? Can someone confirm which line runs 12v to the coil? Is this line fused? Is there another component in the line that might be causing this grief? I'm at a bit of a loss as to my next diagnosis step. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Randy