thinkmonkey

Forgot to mention that I also have a set of lowering springs for my 240z. Don't know the springrate but they were pretty tough cookies and were WAY low in the back, not counting the blown struts I had at the time. $40. -Dave

Saw this car in Sport Compact Car a few months ago, whats his face was gonna buy it but knew he couldn't give it a good enough home. -Dave

Wow, it's been a long time since I posted here. I've been frequenting northwestnissans since then because I have a 240sx in additon to my z. Anyways, here's what I have takin up room. -4 zx wheels for $100 obo, pictured. Tires are all fully treaded with michelin whatevers, wheels are actually pretty good and not much rash. Comes with z caps, plastichrome peeling somewhat. Pickup only (Seattle) -Various stock brake parts. Aluminum drums and related hardware, front calipers and discs (may be able to turn) and whatever else in this box. For '73. $40 takes it all, or take what you need. -Spare tire. Not sure if it is original, but hey it fits in the well. You can have the wooden cover if you want. I may find some other things. E-mail is the best way to reach me, echostudios@hotmail.com. Thanks. -Dave

Zvoiture - Sorry I didn't reply, I haven't lookied at the thread in a while. Are you talking about a quaiffe style LSD? If so I'd definately be interested. Coastguardz - I don't think you understand what drifting is about and what differentiates it from ricers in honda civics at car shows. You can tell a real drifters car because it is stripped down, dented to hell, and used specifically for road racing and drifting. What makes it different from getting loose midturn is that you enter the turn sideways in order to exit parallel to the next straightaway. This takes a lot of balls to do on dirt, gravel, or asphalt and takes massive amounts of skill to pull off sustained slip angles that require full opposite lock through an entire corner. The three things that make it a legitimate sport is that it requires honed car control skills unlikes a burnout, it is something that spectators enjoy immensely, and it is bags of fun! I don't want to call you ignorant or close minded but you do need to experience it yourself, at least in a few years when it is popular enough in the US to have legal, sanctioned events with talented drivers. On a side not, I just crashed my drift car two days ago. I went into a curb (industrial area, 10:30 at night) at about 25mph at no ones fault but my own. Destroyed my front and rear wheels (steel wheels, drifters choice) and collapsed the rear toe and lower control arms. Just got new ones from a Northwest Nissans event today and have them in now. Will get alignment on monday, weld in braces for control arm mounts and be back drifting next week. Silly me. -Dave FWD SUCKS!

I have my 240z which is currently in perpetual restoration, but I also aquired a 1993 240sx last year, 20 years it's junior, and have been obsessed with drifting ever since. I started off drifting in the rain which helped me hone my skills at somewhat 'safe' speeds. I now have RS-R race springs, KYB agx's, whiteline adjustable sway bars, kumho 712 stickies, and a lot of close calls with walls, curbs, and the cops. What I need is a clutch type LSD, and roll cage, and a legal venue because I want to live to see my Z finished. It's damn good fun though. If anyone doubts that drifting takes skill, find someone who really knows what they are doing and go for a ride. You'll be entering corners completely sideways before the road even starts to bend. -David

I'd settle for it, just like a world rally car! (Well, thats actually the anti-lag system retarding the timing to blow through the turbo...) -David

I'm a hybridz guy but back when I dabbled with the L28 I seem to remember the issue was with how the SU carbs metered gas and how even a good fuel pressure regulator wouldn't help. I'll try and dig up the details for you. -David

My 'bodyman' is an old friend of mine that is currently living way down in Kingston Jamaica, and I dare not call myself a body expert without him around. I can hold my own with a dolly and hammer, but when it comes to shrinking and stretching with a torch, I cringe at the thought of making an eyesore a major problem. I could only find an old photo of the rearend, and it's not very detailed but you can see whats going on. The bottom edge to the right of the exhaust cutout is bent in and is wavy towards the right edge, There is a dent on the left side, but that is not a problem. If I can get the bottom edge straight, I can take care of the rest. But how can I accomplish that? -David

Alright, here's one that's got me stumped. How am I going to get the waviness and distortions out of the rear valence of my Z so that the bottom edge appears straight? I want the rear straight at the bottom edge, but it is so hard because the valence isn't secured to the main structure. My body-man friends only idea was to either buy a new rear valence or cut most of it off and use an english wheel. What should I do? I included a picture of exactly what I want, it includes the dual exhaust cutouts and the shaved rear bumper mounts. Thanks. -David

Were I to somehow stumble upon $1 million, by the end of the day I would own a: -BMW M5 -Honda VFR800F By the end of the year I would own: -S13 240sx and Last Gen Camaro Z28 (Cheapest 'true' tuner cars, one for handling, the other for straight line) -Honda CBR1100XX -1968 Dodge Charger 440 R/T (Who can afford the Hemi?) -1942 Jeep (non CJ) -Nismo blue R34 Nissan Skyline (ooh baby RB26DETT, dorifuto time) -BMW E46 M3 -C5 Corvette, Z06 of course -David

Sounds like cancer to me, and it's hard to give advice other than "tear 'r down and build 'r up." If you can see it, then there is a lot more. What is your goal for your car, do you drive it every day? Is it your main driver? -David