thinkmonkey

Forgot to mention that I also have a set of lowering springs for my 240z. Don't know the springrate but they were pretty tough cookies and were WAY low in the back, not counting the blown struts I had at the time. $40. -Dave

Saw this car in Sport Compact Car a few months ago, whats his face was gonna buy it but knew he couldn't give it a good enough home. -Dave

Wow, it's been a long time since I posted here. I've been frequenting northwestnissans since then because I have a 240sx in additon to my z. Anyways, here's what I have takin up room. -4 zx wheels for $100 obo, pictured. Tires are all fully treaded with michelin whatevers, wheels are actually pretty good and not much rash. Comes with z caps, plastichrome peeling somewhat. Pickup only (Seattle) -Various stock brake parts. Aluminum drums and related hardware, front calipers and discs (may be able to turn) and whatever else in this box. For '73. $40 takes it all, or take what you need. -Spare tire. Not sure if it is original, but hey it fits in the well. You can have the wooden cover if you want. I may find some other things. E-mail is the best way to reach me, echostudios@hotmail.com. Thanks. -Dave

Zvoiture - Sorry I didn't reply, I haven't lookied at the thread in a while. Are you talking about a quaiffe style LSD? If so I'd definately be interested. Coastguardz - I don't think you understand what drifting is about and what differentiates it from ricers in honda civics at car shows. You can tell a real drifters car because it is stripped down, dented to hell, and used specifically for road racing and drifting. What makes it different from getting loose midturn is that you enter the turn sideways in order to exit parallel to the next straightaway. This takes a lot of balls to do on dirt, gravel, or asphalt and takes massive amounts of skill to pull off sustained slip angles that require full opposite lock through an entire corner. The three things that make it a legitimate sport is that it requires honed car control skills unlikes a burnout, it is something that spectators enjoy immensely, and it is bags of fun! I don't want to call you ignorant or close minded but you do need to experience it yourself, at least in a few years when it is popular enough in the US to have legal, sanctioned events with talented drivers. On a side not, I just crashed my drift car two days ago. I went into a curb (industrial area, 10:30 at night) at about 25mph at no ones fault but my own. Destroyed my front and rear wheels (steel wheels, drifters choice) and collapsed the rear toe and lower control arms. Just got new ones from a Northwest Nissans event today and have them in now. Will get alignment on monday, weld in braces for control arm mounts and be back drifting next week. Silly me. -Dave FWD SUCKS!

I have my 240z which is currently in perpetual restoration, but I also aquired a 1993 240sx last year, 20 years it's junior, and have been obsessed with drifting ever since. I started off drifting in the rain which helped me hone my skills at somewhat 'safe' speeds. I now have RS-R race springs, KYB agx's, whiteline adjustable sway bars, kumho 712 stickies, and a lot of close calls with walls, curbs, and the cops. What I need is a clutch type LSD, and roll cage, and a legal venue because I want to live to see my Z finished. It's damn good fun though. If anyone doubts that drifting takes skill, find someone who really knows what they are doing and go for a ride. You'll be entering corners completely sideways before the road even starts to bend. -David

I'd settle for it, just like a world rally car! (Well, thats actually the anti-lag system retarding the timing to blow through the turbo...) -David

I'm a hybridz guy but back when I dabbled with the L28 I seem to remember the issue was with how the SU carbs metered gas and how even a good fuel pressure regulator wouldn't help. I'll try and dig up the details for you. -David

My 'bodyman' is an old friend of mine that is currently living way down in Kingston Jamaica, and I dare not call myself a body expert without him around. I can hold my own with a dolly and hammer, but when it comes to shrinking and stretching with a torch, I cringe at the thought of making an eyesore a major problem. I could only find an old photo of the rearend, and it's not very detailed but you can see whats going on. The bottom edge to the right of the exhaust cutout is bent in and is wavy towards the right edge, There is a dent on the left side, but that is not a problem. If I can get the bottom edge straight, I can take care of the rest. But how can I accomplish that? -David

Alright, here's one that's got me stumped. How am I going to get the waviness and distortions out of the rear valence of my Z so that the bottom edge appears straight? I want the rear straight at the bottom edge, but it is so hard because the valence isn't secured to the main structure. My body-man friends only idea was to either buy a new rear valence or cut most of it off and use an english wheel. What should I do? I included a picture of exactly what I want, it includes the dual exhaust cutouts and the shaved rear bumper mounts. Thanks. -David

Were I to somehow stumble upon $1 million, by the end of the day I would own a: -BMW M5 -Honda VFR800F By the end of the year I would own: -S13 240sx and Last Gen Camaro Z28 (Cheapest 'true' tuner cars, one for handling, the other for straight line) -Honda CBR1100XX -1968 Dodge Charger 440 R/T (Who can afford the Hemi?) -1942 Jeep (non CJ) -Nismo blue R34 Nissan Skyline (ooh baby RB26DETT, dorifuto time) -BMW E46 M3 -C5 Corvette, Z06 of course -David

Sounds like cancer to me, and it's hard to give advice other than "tear 'r down and build 'r up." If you can see it, then there is a lot more. What is your goal for your car, do you drive it every day? Is it your main driver? -David

I was curious what kind of 'restoration' you guys do to your z cars when you do race prep them for competition? Do you just shop for a rust free arizona car, or do you strip and dip the unit-body first? -David

I'm shipping my engine and tranny so I was wondering if anyone knew the weights of either? The engine is a carbureted L28, and the tranny is a 280zx 5 speed. Rough estimates would be alright too, thanks. -David

Hey Ivan, where in NZ are you? I lived in Auckland 96-99 and I'm going back for college next year, and bringing my Hybrid 240 with me (LHD). I've been talking with the z car club of NZ and they say I might be able to pull it off legally. -David

Thanks Mike, I won't be selling it for a few weeks here but that will help a lot with pricing. Is that a short block or long block? -David

I live in Seattle Washington, Kirkland specifically. I'm not sure how much for the engine yet. It runs very very well, I just want you to know that (it also sounds good with my exhaust, straight pipe from the headers to a single muffler, and it passes Washington Emissions). I'm going to pull off the valve cover and take some pictures of the cams, they are brand new. The only problem with it is the headers should be replaced as they are older than the engine. I was thinking $2300 for the engine and transmission but for the engine alone I am not sure yet. I don't know how much they are worth exactly, I guess it's all a matter of demand, but MSA has rebuilt shortblocks for $1800. This engine is ready to drop in, with the dome tops and electronic ignition. I can truck it anywhere or deliver as far as Oregon, Idaho, or B.C. Here are the exact specs on the engine components: It's a Nissan Rebuilt L28 block, and it came with Nissan rebuild info. The block is an F54 which was used on the '81-83 280ZX and has flattop/dished pistons and extra webbing. It has an N47 head with round exhaust ports hooked up to 6-2 headers. The header has a leak on the top #3 cylinder I think it is. It is carbureted with 70-72 dome top SU's, not the crappy square tops sold in 73. The exhaust gas recirculation assembly (air galley, smog pump, etc) and all other emissions equipment have been removed. The ignition has been converted to electronic, and it has new spark plugs and wires. The fan is a viscous clutch type. The carbs still require a choke for cold start, and I have the choke lever assembly for you. It starts without a puff of smoke or hesitation, even cold, and doesn't backfire. I changed the oil about 75 miles ago. The engine is hooked to a 5 speed transmission from a 280zx, but which one it is I am not sure. Check out http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/2824/engine.html for some info on the tranny, because there were three kinds produced. I suspect it was made between 81-83 and is the close ratio version, so I'm trying to find out. On the right side it is stamped with "L1" but I can't find the origin. I changed the tranny fluid and got no filings (or sawdust). Shifting is a breeze with the clutch, and the gate is easy to go through with a medium to short throw. I was thinking it was a Tremec T5 but I am not sure. Anyway, drop me a line. -David

Well, I'm deep into building my dream Z and it doesn't happen to include some parts you guys may want. I'm shaving most of the exterior components and stripping the interior so I have alot of parts left over. So currently I'm cleaning and painting them to sell, and here's what I have so far. It's all from a 1973 240 built in later 72. Look here http://www.echostudios.com/z for all the pictures. -Wood 3 spoke steering wheel, had leather cover, finish in fairly good condition so I left it, sanded, rust morted, primed, and painted the spokes with glossy black rustoleum. Looks cool, but I'm going with my Momo -Struts. Not sure if they are front or rear, I have to check. Extra pair, Gabriel Gas Ryder, part number 734604. Stripped, sanded, morted, sanded, and primed in black. Ready for paint or straight installation. I will measure them tonight -Horn Pad. Fair condition, vinyl very very nice. Lettering solid, but some small chipping on black paint by datsun logo, rear foam pretty much worn. Shined up with something similar to Armor All but doesn't dry up, basically gojo with no pumice, works well. -Bullet Style Mirrors. Similar to fairlylady fender mirrors, but I don't know if these are original on a Z. Sanded, rust morted, sanded, cleaned and primed in gray, ready for paint. Mirrors still covered so you can paint them, it was hard to tape them off. Great condition, adjustable. -Rear quarter turn signals. Excellent condition, chrome is perfect and shiny. Shined up with Number 7. Rubber is good for another 10 years, but is not supple. Some surface rust on backside of metal housing, includes working bulbs. Price wise, I'm thinking $100 for the wheel, $50 for both the struts, $30 for the horn pad, $65 for the mirrors, and $35 for the turn signals. OBO is the key phrase here, I'm not very good at pricing, but I am honest. I have and can take specific pictures for you, just e-mail me or respond. Everything is in good condition, and I will clean them again before I send them to you. I live in Seattle if anyone wants to pick stuff up, and I'll refund if there is a major problem with anything. Thanks guys. In the future I'll be parting out the front signals (all 4), radiator, gas tank, evaporative emissions system, tan miata bucket seats, 15 inch black mesh wheels, hood hinge assy, door handles, a spare wheel, cig lighter, a black leather cover for the rear hatch area, retracting seat belts, a water pump, the fuel door, drop coils, 14" 82zx wheels with rubber, and finally my nissan rebuilt L28 and 5 speed tranny. The engine has no smog, 11,000 miles, it's a 2.8, electronic ignition, dome top SU's, and the tranny is from a 280zx. If you're interested in any of these, drop me a line and I will get them cleaned up and painted for you and take some pix. Thanks. -David

I live in Seattle and I have a Nissan Rebuilt L28. I bought my 73 in February and I yanked the engine earlier this month. Here's the skinny on the engine and tranny. It's a Nissan Rebuilt L28 block, and it came with Nissan rebuild info. The block is an F54 which was used on the '81-83 280ZX and has flattop/dished pistons and extra webbing. It has an N47 head with round exhaust ports hooked up to 6-2 headers. The header has a leak on the top #3 cylinder I think it is. It is carbureted with 70-72 dome top SU's, not the crappy square tops sold in 73. The exhaust gas recirculation assembly (air galley, smog pump, etc) and all other emissions equipment have been removed, although the owner claimed it still passed emissions. The ignition has been converted to electronic, and it has new spark plugs and wires. The plugs tend to build up carbon because right now it runs rich, which will remedy itself when you sync the carburetors (I'll include the sync tool). I suspect this is because the previous owner lived higher and ran it richer to compensate. The fan is a viscous clutch type. The carbs still require a choke for cold start, and I have the choke lever assembly for you. The cams are absolutely spotless, and I suspect the previous owners claim of 11,000 miles is true. It starts without a puff of smoke or hesitation, even cold, and doesn't backfire. I changed the oil about 75 miles ago. The engine is hooked to a 5 speed transmission from a 280zx, but which one it is I am not sure. Check out http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/2824/engine.html for some info on the tranny, because there were three produced. I suspect it was made between 81-83 and is the close ratio version, so I'm trying to find out. On the right side it is stamped with "L1" but I can't find the origin. I changed the tranny fluid and got no filings (or sawdust). Shifting is a breeze with the clutch, and the gate is easy to go through with a medium to short throw. All of this added together with my 3.9 reared made for some awesome driving in the twisties, and I almost felt like I was sitting on a V8. The motor and tranny are very strong, and I'm confident in guaranteeing them that they are all I say or I'll swap them back. The reason I am selling it is because my Mopar friend convinced me to drop a small block chevy in my car after I've restored it, and really I had a solid car, which is now a shell while I do the bodywork on the unibody. I'd also like to sell the exhaust, which was fantastic sounding. Hooked up to the headers it ran back to the single muffler in the back with no cat or pre-mufflers. If you lower the idle to around 650 is grumbles like a V8, and has a great throaty tone up towards redline, but is not ricey at all. I have a million other parts for sale (gas tank, sender, interior peices, wheels) if you'd like, just tell me and I may have it. Tell me what you think, I have tons of photos I can send you.

I'm going to cut out the spare tire well and weld in a box where it and the gas tank was. Mounting it above is more dangerous spill wise in a bad collision and it raises the center of gravity. I just wish I Summit would provide dimensions on their cells so I didn't have to order it now.

According to "How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car" one is the fuel line, one the return line, and one goes to the flow guide valve from the cannister. My flow guide valve line was never connected (previous removed most emissions junk). So is the function of the fuel return line to put air into the tank to replace the spent fuel? My engine is out right now, so does the return line connect to the intake?

I am a little confused when it comes to the operation of the fuel tank, though the concept is simple. Why does the tank have all of the vent lines (not the evaporative emissions stuff) going to the front of the car and terminating in the engine compartment? I want to install a fuel cell, so what kind of vent lines will I need. I am confused. Has anyone done a writeup on their fuel cell installation? -David