ph240

That is correct. The later ZX (81-83) uses all brass synchro. Mine is a carbon material. Nissan discontinued the part. If I can't find one, I'll have to reuse the one I have and take a chance. Thanks

Anyone?

The P in "BPR" means it has a projected tip. The ceramic tip is longer than non "p" plugs. If you are using NGK wires they also have noise suppression built in.

I'm rebuilding my 280Z 5 speed and will REM the gears and shafts. I'll post once it's done. I'm having trouble locating the 5th gear synchro. Anyone know who may have it ?

I am pretty sure the 73 is all by itself.

Check Charlie Osborne of Zed Findings. I just bought floor pans and both front frame rails , very high quality. Check under the battery common area for rust.

In need of Nissan 32361-20100 5th gear synchro ring. Anybody have one?

had mine done a few weeks ago, they used a plastic media that didnt wrap the sheetmetal, Did an awesome job but it was $950.00 for the body, hood, doors, hatch, cowl, inspection lids and few small parts. It's expensive but I highly advise taking it to a professional otherwise you will have a mess on your hands. Be careful using sand as it will warp Datsun sheetmetal.

Hey does anybody have a decent 73 240Z front lower valance and turn signals for sale? Let me know. Thanks

So it's not just me. I cant recommend there spray paint. I will redo my rear suspension using the VHT epoxy paint. I tested a few small parts and it turned out very well.

Anybody have problems with Eastwood chassis black epoxy spray paint? I have 4 cans that leak around the nozzle and the nozzle wont spray properly. I cleaned them and they will work a few seconds then spray funny. Not impressed with the $14 per can price. I tried VHT epoxy paint with excellent results so far. My finished my rear suspension with eastwood and it turned out great but will have to repaint with VHT to match. Maybe their is a bad batch?

Alex, Welcome, I'm a little late to the party but the members here are a great source of info and parts, as you are finding out. Parts can still be had, Motor Sport Auto in CA is a good place, Black Dragon Automotive, Z car source of Arizona are some good ones. I just ordered some door parts from Courtesy Nissan in TX, they seem very helpful. I have a 73 and have been playing with it for a few years. I was able to find a refurbished gas tank from a member here, you probably can do the same, just have to be diligent in looking and asking. I agree with everyone get the body in order, fix the rust properly or it will return. POR-15 is our friend. You can go thru the engine pretty easy and not to expensive so you can drive it. I'd get it looking like you want with the stock engine/drivetrain and then look at modifying.As always paint and body work will cost more than you budget for, so I'd focus there first. Good luck with your project, they are a fun car to drive and modify.

That I'm not sure about, my car is completely apart so i had the hinges on a work bench and with a vise replaced all the bushings and the main pin. the oe roller pin I reused as it was not worn. You may be able to tap it out if you can get a good solid hit with a drift and a hammer. If not Id recommend supporting the door really well and repair each hinge one at a time . I remember that they were in there pretty snug.

I rebuilt my hinges a few years ago. look at http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=25652&title=door-hinge-repair&cat=503 and I tell you where to buy the parts and the part numbers. The rollers from mcmaster carr are an exact match. They work great.

Here are some of Jim Fitzgerald 240z Serial #6 but was campaigned later as a 280 due to engine changes. Also the Bob Sharp 280zx turbo. Jim was Paul Newman's team mate and good friend. Newman was number 33, Jim was 38. robbed these off the internet hope they don't mind.

The L28 (280Z) cylinder heads have larger intake and exhaust valves. You can machine these larger valves and seats into a 240 head but the cost is greater than just using the L28 heads. The L28's have a larger bore and longer stroke so they don't turn as much rpm as the L24's, hence the need for larger valves. For me unless you have 100% numbers matching car in pristine condition I have no problem adding L28 to a 240 for increased hp and more importantly torque. Back in the 70-80's Jim Fitzgerald used early E88 heads, 280 valves and opened the ports up on his race heads. This gave him the higher flow and compression for racing. His heads flowed better than anyone's and Z power is all the heads whether it is on the street on on the track.

I didn't see any mention of which clyinder head, what type headers and exhaust system you plan on using and most important which camshaft. 40 DCOE sidedrafts are for racing or highly modified street engines. They will require a lot of tuning. If you dont plan on racing and you are planning to use an auto transmission, I'd recommend a good set of early SU's (70-72), which are available from vendors on this forum. You can not set the DCOE webers to be progressive, each carb has 2 barrels and each barrel only supplies it's clyinder with air fuel. That's why there are 3 manifolds with the triple sidedrafts. You can use the Mallory Unilight w/optical L.E.D. with a MSD 6AL and Blaster coil. But do you really need it? I like the Mallory w/optical L.E.D. dist because it is trouble free and with a higher voltage coil you will get better cold starts other than that you aren't going to get a lot for your investment. Chose wisely.

If the old water pump broke it could have worn a hole in the timing cover which would explain the "Milky oil" in the crank case filter. As the bearings wear the shaft cam move causing the impellers to cut into the timing cover. You can pressurize the cooling system to about 15 to 20 lbs with a cooling system pressure tester and see if it will hold pressure, if not remove the valve cover, look down at the timing chain where the water pump would be. It sounds like a timing cover or blown head gasket. This does require your attention as it will lead to more seriuos problems.

hey keep in mind the cam/distributor rotate at 50% of the crank (4 stroke engine). Just because the timing mark on the crank is at tdc doesn't mean the distributor rotor will be. Better pull the valve cover and look at the cam lobes. The intake & exhaust valve should be closed and the exhaust getting ready to open. If the timing mark is at tdc on the ignition stroke the rotor will algin with number 1 spark plug terminal. A haynes manual may be a good idea to look at or buy.

Flat tops bad, early round tops good. flat tops will vapor lock in outside temps above 85. Datsun recalled the 73 and 74 z and installed heat sheilding and an electric fuel pump but it didn't fix it. Here in the south I remeber many a 73 that wouldn't restart afetr they heat soaked for a few minutes. Keep the oe parts, install the early carbs and enjoy driving the Z

Hey don't sweat it, American muscle cars are great don't get me wrong, but they all suffer from that same 60's-70's build quality that all manufatures had. The $100K + restorations is mainly in the labor to make the doors line up correctly! I've seem many a restored muscle car and everyone complain about how the body fits together and how much time they have in fitting it properly.

I know some won't want to do this but... I found a cool way to replace the factory linkage with a braided stainless steel cable that is teflon lined. Lokar (www.lokar.com) offers a universal throttle cable. You have to be willing to trim the gas pedal so their clevis pin will fit, use a washer on the firewall so the cable will fit in the stock hole. I welded mine up and redrilled it since my chassis is striped bare. And you will have to make a adjuster plate on top of the cross over tube on the stock manifold and weld on a tab 180 degrees from the stock one, since the cable must pull the shaft up. It is a little work but looks way cool. Once my body is painted I will post pictures. This will fix any of sticking throttle issue the factory had. I do like the mechaincal linkage, it is cool how it works and is so Z car, but the Lokar cable fits the look I am after. The 36" cable retails for about $50.

Check with a local dealer but i think the 280 cable is NLA. If you can't find a good used one. A hot rod company called "Lokar" www.lokar.com has a universal one that is extremely close. I think it could be made to work with the factory hand brake. My 240 hand brake cable is in great shape so I am going to use it but would have tried the Lokar option if I couldn't.I replaced my 240 stock throttle linkage with Lokar's braided stainless steel cable, after a few simple mods it is working and looks great.