ph240

Good advice on using the aluminum rad. They have bigger tubes than the stock copper brass rads. 1" vs 1/2". Be careful using a Ford fan, they work very well but can pull 70 amps on start up and on high they will use 40 amps. Be sure your charging sytem is up to snuff. As for me I work for Be Cool Radiator, Inc and while we don't offer an off the shelve part for a Z, I'm building a custom one with Dual Spal 11" fans since I will be using our aluminum a/c condensor. No matter which one you end up using it will perform better than stock.

Ditto, The Z Therapy SU's are the best way to go. They look clean and correct when you pop the hood, perform better, better fuel milage and drivabilty. Plus they sound better when you wind it up.

Yeah in 73 when they had to use the dreaded flat top carbs with the float bowels that are internal, they had a major vapor lock problem. They added an electric pump so it wouldn't vapor lock. it didn't work. They then recalled the 73's and the dealer added silver heat insulation to the fuel lines. That didn't work either as it was not the problem. the carbs would get so hot they would boil the fuel out of the float bowels and they where very difficult to restart. Most owners swaped to early carbs (70-72)which perform much better. If you are using round top carbs all you need is the mechanical pump. My 73 has 72 carbs I do not use the factory fuel lines at all. I use a electric pump at the rear and braided steel AN lines mounted on the drivers side. I split off to each carb with a Y block and run a return line back to the tank. I have a rear mounted in line fuel filter and pressure regulator,very tiddy & it works great. I use a MSA fuel pump block of plate and don't have any stock hard lines on the frame rail and fire wall.

Richard, I plan on using the Vintage Air SD 508 Compressor on my 73. All USA 240's that had a/c had it added at the port or the dealer. They used a large upright York compressor mounted on the passengar side. The later 280z & Zx used a rotory compressor mounted on the drivers side. I think you can adapt the SD 508 to the 280 brackets. I am getting ready to look at this in the next few weeks. I also will use Vintage Air GEN II system inside the car.

Frank Push on the brake pedal hard several times and then release the pedal. Now crack the brake bleeder and see if any brake fluid squirts out under a litttle pressure. If it does it could be the brake master cylinder not releasing 100% (wear in the clyinder). Check both calipers. You will have a small amount of fluid slowly trickle out when you crack it. But it should not be under any pressure. Good luck You need to also consider the proportion valve.

JB weld may work. Gas will not effect it., but I agree with Nissanman. The factory soldered the connections. The pipes are soldered to a plate that is spot welded and soldered sealed to the tank. I would not heat the whole plate as you will unseal the plate to the tank. I think you would be better to solder the the tubes back. Either way you should pressure test the tank with about 5 psi and check for leaks. You may have to have a local shop do this. Do not apply more air pressure as you can hurt the tank. Welding wire or a coat hanger should dislodge any rust/debris. I would turn the tank up side down and have the drivers side (shallow end) up higher so when the debris comes out it will fall into the tall part of the tank; on the other side of the baffle, were you can vacuum it out thru the sending unit opening or the filler neck. You may need to soak it with WD40 for a while.

Reddog, look at the Hybird Z >techinical>Engine Components>Ignition and Electrical, " How to make autometer fuel gauge read properly" back on 11-17-2007 smoorenc gives a detailed post on this problem. I have not tried it yet but it makes sense. I am also looking at using Autometer or VDO gauges, but am still working on sheetmetal and rust repair.

My 72 had this problem, I found two things wrong. The wire coming in to the points was bad and it would idle, and run ok but it would shut off around 45 mph. Also I found both fuel screens in the inlet side of the carbs had a lot of trash in them. I removed them and installed inline filters instead, motor would pull 7000 rpm no problem after that. Good luck

25 psi is too much. 280 Master is correct with 13psi. If it leaks at 10, better think about using another one.

Double check your bottles and be sure what you put in. It sounds like you have the wrong fluid, redline has many different gear oils in a 75/90. I am looking at using Redline MTL in mine but have not as of yet, I have run MTL in a 82 5 speed maxima and a 85 5 speed FWD maxima with great results. You should call Redline and ask them.