ph240

Has anybody ever replaced the roller on the lower door hinges of a 73 240? It is the round part that the spring arm presses on and catches in two spots as the door open. Mine have deep grooves in them from old age. It looks as they are they same from 1970-78.I am rebuilding my hinges with new pins and bushings. Check this out http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/body/doorhinge/index.htm

A lot of things can make an engine ping, be sure your point gap is set correctly and that the breaker plate is advancing and not stuck, as well as the vacuum advance is working. Double check your ign timing. Also be sure you are not running lean on one carb. You may find that you need to raise the octane level of your fuel or retard the timing a few degrees. Do you know the history of your engine? has it been rebuilt? Check your compression and see what you get. I dont think plugging the pcv would cause this but I recommend you unplug the pcv valve so the engine can vent so it won't build pressure and push out a crank seal. Just be sure everything is set correctly I would start with the igition system.

Be careful using a Ford or any other OE fan they can draw 40 amps or more and up to 60 amps at start up. Just be sure your alternator and wiring are sized correctly. An upgrade to at least 100 amp alternator may be in order

The BMW rad will fit a 6-87 to 1991 BMW E30 M 20 engine w/ manual trans and a E36 6 cylinder car from 1992 to 1999 both man & auto trans cars. Use caution as the upper rad hose neck will break off without any warning around 60K miles of use. I woulkd recommend a new one and forget about a used one..to risky.

I haven't checked in a while but Nissan Motorsports used to offer a Valve Cover and Oil Pan Gasket. It was a compressed fiber, white in color. You could reuse it many times and it didn't need sealant. Back in the mid 80's they sold for 3x what a cork one was. I'll check with a dealer and see if they still do.

Having worked at FLUIDYNE and now for Stewart Components I can tell you aluminum cores are stronger than copper brass because the aluminum tubes are extruded and the fines and tube sheets are brazed with a Nocolock furance. Cheaper cores use an epoxy to seal the tubes to the tube supports, which works ok but brazed is stronger. With copper/Brass they are soldered which is not as strong and does not transfer heat as well. I would bet that there is some truth to core support flex and keep in mind radiators grow when they heat up, shrink when they cool down. Also radiators in todays cars last longer than they did before. I do not know of any copper/brass cores in production cars anymore. Alumium radaitors can be more expensive, just more skilled labor involved in producing them,unless you manufacture in large qaunities. Aftermarket radiators such as FLUIDYNE are hand TIG welded. I will use an alumium radiator in my 240Z when the time comes, right now the body work still drags on.

Hey, Thanks for the input everyone. I was able to find a local company that I will stop by next week and see what they can offer. I am still knee deep in body repair but am getting closer to having it done. They only coatings I deal with are powder coat and aluminum hardcoat. I like the gold cadmium look on brackets,body nuts & bolts, door hardware..etc but have never used it before. Here in NASCAR country we have many shops that offer different special coatings but not cadmium. I will let you know what I find. Paul

Does anyone know where I can buy new gold cadmium bolts & nuts? Or do you know of a company that will recoat my old hardware?