DatsunZGuy

For reference, is plug #1 at the top or the bottom of the photos???

These window frames can be replaced with basic tools and without removing the glass. The door panel will need to be removed, but that's easy. If you insist on outsourcing: https://zintage.net/ https://www.doctordatsun.com/ https://www.vintagemotorworksla.com

A couple of ideas: 1. Get yourself a tube of ShinEtsu grease and apply a good amount around your hatch gasket. Keep the hatch open overnight to allow the grease to soak in and expand the rubber a bit. This technique works well with leaky t-tops and may help your situation. Then, take the car out for a run. 2. It is hard to tell in the photograph, but it looks like you have a Fujitsubo Legalis R exhaust system installed. As goofy as it sounds, I would try using about a foot length of PVC pipe (or similar) and attach it to each of your tailpipe tips and make the seal air tight with something like aluminum tape. Drive around the block with the widows down and then up to see if the extension makes any difference in the fumes. These suggestions may seem a bit unorthodox, but you have pretty much tried the all normal remedies.

I would go with a bead of black silicon given how old the dash foam is, and the potential adverse interaction with products containing isocyanates.

I looked at few original 1973s on Bring a Trailer of Money and it looks the same as my 1972 speedo. Maybe @kats can hopefully chime in??? 🙏

Is the date code on back 23 01.3? The first digit is hard to make out.

Below is a photograph taken from the 1970 240Z sale brochure. A plastic cover can been seen over the voltage regulator. I assume the car (perhaps a late single-digit VIN) was released for the North American promotion circuit and pictures taken to create promotion/marketing slicks. I would guess all production cars had the cover installed. The car missing the cover was probably an engineering mule destined to be taken apart for the service manual and never left the factory complex. https://xr793.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/1970-Datsun-240Z.pdf

This job might be a good candidate for POR 15

I so love the fact you can easily swap carburetor needles on a 240Z and tune it with a twist of a mixture knob and turn of an idle screw. This sure beats taking out a laptop and remapping an ECU.

That green Z would have at least had 10-15K more in bid momentum a year ago. The S30 is still somewhat within the reach of mere mortals, but the same demographic is being impacted more by the sour economy than the Ferrari and Lamborghini crowd. Moreover, the liquidation of the Prancing Horse Z collection on Bring a Trailer about a month ago probably scratched the immediate itch of any serious Z collectors with deep pocket for the near term.

Unfortunately trapped moisture will typically corrode these mufflers from the inside out. No amount of external protection will help stave off its demise from within 😟

I wonder if the car belongs to the Bubble Boy from Seinfeld.

I believe it was this car: https://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1972-datsun-24oz-c-13640.htm

I'd personally stay clear of any 240Z that Beverly Hills Car Club has for sale.

That switch is to raise and lower the antenna on the AM only radio.

Did you also remove the screws here (circled in red) that helps keeps the lever housing in place? Those often get overlooked. Those

Now that the Z is done, I really have no desire to hoard parts. As long as consumables remain available to keep it on the road, that's enough. This is my fifth and final 240Z I'll own. I'd much rather see my spare parts in circulation going towards other enthusiast's restorations than being stockpiled to be estate liquidated after I'm dead.

I'm thinking of getting one of these sniffers for myself. Lots of uses around the home to include measuring the potency of farts at my next Superbowl party with the guys 😆

Buying one of these might be worthwhile. https://a.co/d/2X8BFkY

Have you tried swapping a spark plug and wire between cylinders to see if the issue moves or remains with cylinder #4?

I replaced my old choke cable with .055" music wire. It was a night and day difference in performance. It also gave me a nice and straight cable to connect my nozzle levers to.

Since the console is not fully installed, it might be a good time to replace the cable itself. You mentioned it appears to be in good repair, but swapping the metal cable out will allow you to hang both cable housings up and spray a lubricant with graphite through them to flush them out. You'd be amazed how much gunk and loose residue accumulates in over half a century of use. Below is a link to a suitable replacement for the stock wire and rebuilding instructions. https://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/repair-choke-cable/ Also, take a look at the bottom of the page. There's a paragraph on a sticky choke and smell of gas in the interior. It sounds very similar to what you're experiencing. Finally, consider mounting the choke level to the transmission tunnel instead on back on the console itself. Time is not kind to plastic and it becomes brittle over the years. The mounting plate will probably save you from cracking your console someday from pulling on the choke level a bit too enthusiastically.

You can go down to your local AutoZone, O'Reilly's, etc... and try an STP SA3378. Worse case, if it doesn't fit, just take it back to the store for a refund.

Beverly Hills has really gone downhill recently 😉