DatsunZGuy

For $10.99 Catalog #671J-02, Page 205, Upper Left Corner

Hi Marty, I used Krylon clear on the faux wood steering wheel. When all was said and done I used almost half a can on it. I wanted to get a good thick base coat before I proceeded with the wet sanding and polishing regiment. Like Kmack, I learned a lesson not to rush the spoke drying process on the first wheel I did. The best tape that I have found for masking is called 10-day masking tape. I found a roll at my local Ace hardware store. It's blue in color and keeps the over spray off without having a tenacious grip like a Bulldog on a soup bone.

Same steering wheel taken with a flash. I feel this shot shows more of the red tint of the original wheel color. I guess this should have been the picture I posted first :stupid: Better?

Hey Mr. C, I recently restored two 240Z steering wheels. I’m getting better at it with each attempt My first project wheel is currently installed on my 1972, which can be seen in my photo gallery. Since I had materials left over from my first wheel restoration, I decided to complete another one. This is the wheel in the attached photograph. I’ll be putting this wheel up for sale on ebay in the next couple of weeks. Here is the process I used: I stripped down the black spokes by machine sander, and not chemical stripper as not to harm the rim’s finish. Then, the center was masked and hub/spokes were painted flat black with a semi-gloss clear coat added. The faux wood was stripped, prepped, and finished using the following process: 1. Wood was thoroughly cleaned with a citrus degreaser and a mild Teflon-safe scouring pad to remove all accumulation of old varnish, grease and dirt. 2. I applied a single, light coat of red mahogany stain to revive the color. 3. Multiple coats of clear urethane was then sprayed to seal and protect. 4. The wheel was wet sanded with 600 grit sandpaper to smoothen the surface. 5. Polishing compound was then applied and surfaced was buffed by hand for many hours to achieve a glossy finish.

Well, the UPS driver has delivered all my goodies from shox.com. And very quickly I might add (ordered Saturday, everything here by Thursday). This will be the first time in my life I’ve ever done any type of major suspension work. I scanned through the many archives of various Z car Web sites and learned the value of having a propane torch at the ready to win the battle against the control arm bushings, and the great books of wisdom will be close at hand. Any prayers or additional advice/warnings would be most welcomed before I take the plunge. :eek:

I replaced the right side trim on my rear window while it was still on the vehicle. Just remove the corner pieces and carefully pry the long trim sections out. To install the new pieces, I found it beneficial to use one of those cheap plastic narrow putty knifes. You risk tearing the narrow rubber lip which holds the trim pieces if use a metal screwdriver. Also, spray some silicone around the trim, which should help with the installation. Last, make sure you use some rubbing alcohol to remove any residual silicone in the area where the end pieces will go. Apply some weather strip adhesive to those pieces and tape it down with masking tape overnight.

Hi Royce, Click on "1972 Datsun 240Z" on my original post and the hyperlink will take you to the URL.

DESCRIPTION: 1972 Datsun 240Z no smog needed, all original, orange with white interior, engine runs strong, tuned up, started to restore, you finish, $1200 or reasonable offer.

Hi Burt, In my past experience trying to replace the clock without harming the cardboard glove box is a risky proposition. I’ve tried it myself and ended up with pieces in my hand. If I were in your shoes, I would invest $20.00 and purchase a new glove box from the likes of Victoria British. Keep it aside just in case you tear the old box up trying to remove it. You have a very nice car; I wouldn’t skimp on reasonably price stuff like that. If you don’t need the new box, you could always sell it on ebay. In fact, I am astounded how much people bid for stuff that you can mail order for a lot cheaper from MSA or VB. I must be lucky since the clock on my 1972 is still functioning (albeit running a little fast). If it kicks the bucket, I think I would opt for one of these quartz conversions. CLICK HERE I am saddened to read about all the problems you are having with your car. You have invested a lot of money in it so far.

Enrique is absolutely right about test fitting before doing drilling. Make sure there’s enough clearance will save you a lot of heartache in the long run. Another note: Make sure you don’t have any screw drivers or other tool laying on the radiator core support when you shut the hood. It will be a hard lesson in cleaning up after yourself. :stupid:

In my experience the answer is both YES and NO. On the 1972 I currently own, the front bumper guards were cut to accommodate the overrider bar. On the 1973 I owned previously, the bar was directly on top of the rubber guards. My front and rear bumper are off and being rechromed down in Los Angeles. I think I’ll leave the overriders off to have a cleaner look.

Wick Humble’s book, "How to Restore Your Datsun Z-Car", provides this formula: Ditzler Duracryl DDL 2862 Argent with some suede additive added 1 Pint DDL 200 units DX265 300 units DX264 Thin 100-150% and spray on fairly

I’m glad to find out who actually bought this incredible car! I must admit that paying that much money even for a survivor car like yours is a little more than I was willing to fork out. But if you can afford it, more power to you. If I recall, the owner purchased the car and immediately had it rust proofed by Ziebart. There is a debate if this type of rust prevention treatment will actually promote rust by trapping in moisture. In your car’s case, it helped to preserve its rust-free body. Additionally, being garage stored, hardly driven in the rain and living in an area where salting the road is not necessary certainly helped as well. I think the original owner had that black stripe on the hood added at the dealership….a nice touch. May you enjoy your car for many years to come.

Welcome aboard! With the shape that it's in, I guess you won't be needing any mechanical advice soon :-) How much did you pay for it? The owner, Larry I think was his name, was looking for about $18,000 when it went on ebay twice. Reserve was not met in both cases. Sweet ride!

Sold for $17,400 with cracked tailgate paint, sagging headliner , malfunctioning gas gauge and all! Kind of sad to see the car went for about $10,000 less than what it sold for in 1998.

Wow, with less than two hours left to go, there are no new bids on this 240Z since January the 10th. My attempt to win last night’s Super Lotto failed miserably. If I had won, I would have scooped up this car, the pristine orange 1973 240Z, and the Boss 429 hovering at around 63K. Alas, the thrill will have to go to someone else. Maybe all interested parties are playing possum and a bidding frenzy will commence in the final minutes of the auction. In any case, I’ll have my popcorn beside me and finger on the refresh button hoping for some last-second fireworks.

Hello Kats, Thank you for the complement. Yes, my vehicle is very nearly original, but not quite perfect. As for the model year, it is titled as a 1972 model with a production date of 12/71. It has the vertical defrost lines on the rear hatch glass, and the car is equipped with non-retractable seatbelt, but has the recess behind the seats for the retractable ones. Have you contacted Nissan to inquire what make and model of tires were used on the early production vehicles manufactured around the time yours was built? I would think someone at the corporate level would be happy to assist you. Assistance like this makes for good public relations. This other suggestion is kind of unorthodox, somewhat extreme and a long shot. Certain law enforcement agencies like Interpol, maintain a database of different tire tread patterns, which are used to aid investigations by narrowing down the list of possible vehicles using a particular brand of tire as OEM equipment. Of course, this based on the premise the tires on the vehicle are original or an exact replacement. This is similar to the FBI’s ability to identify a year, make and model of a vehicle by analyzing a paint chip obtained from a crime scene. Of course, to obtain this type of information, you need to know the right person in the right place. Those photographs you have might just be enough to produce a match. I wish you good luck in your quest! I have attached a link that discusses about how the FBI uses tread and shoe pattern identification. http://www.fbi.gov/hq/lab/handbook/examshoe.htm

It would be a pitty to swap the carbs on this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6187&item=2400366851

I still have the original set of RD 150’s with some meat still left on them with a spare that has never been down. There’s no sign of cracking, but at 30 year plus, I won't drive the car on long trip at highway speeds with these relics.

It's not the best picture, but it will give you some idea of what it would look like.

Hi Gino, Take a look at Collector Car Trader Online. A quick search for 240Z in the state of CA came up with 26 hits ranging from $10,100 to $900.00. Click Here Good luck in your hunt!

Here's a closeup of main air cleaner sticker I have yet to mount on my '72. From what I can see, there is no mention as to specific U.S. emission controls on it. I assume this sticker was used on Z's exported to the U.S., Aus., etc...

A face that only his Daddy could love

I think this is the commercial you are looking for. http://www.zheaven.com/Events/Commercial/350platesmyz.mov:classic: