DatsunZGuy

There's a pair for 50 buck posted in Facebook Marketplace. With a bit of elbow work, these frames can be polished on a near chrome luster. I'd also recommend replacing the door glass run felt. A roll is under 20 dollars. https://zcardepot.com/products/door-glass-window-run-felt-rubber-2-2-280z?variant=19275644338289&currency=USD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google+shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3-3MmeqA-wIV_wetBh04ZwtGEAQYBCABEgIBdfD_BwE# I personally like to look of stock mirrors and pleased to see a car with a matching pair. https://www.dickbarbourperformance.com/vdp/19219905/Used-1971-Datsun-240Z-for-sale-in-Atlanta-GA-30566

I purchased this 240Z shift knob on eBay and it was a nice match (but not exact) to my steering wheel and is heavier than stock and of better quality. The seller also offered a 5-speed shift pattern as well. Even the OEM knob wasn't the same shade as the steering wheel. If you want it to match, I suggest restoring current steering wheel and stain it to match the shift knob.

I have a BA9S in my glovebox. Works fine.

500 bucks a set would be a fair price to include the lug nuts and center caps...IMHO.

I was sporting a set of the gold-centered versions way back in the early 1990s. What specifics do you want to know about them?

I'm glad Sam was able to take a look at your car. He's a good guy. As for springs, I am currently running Suspension Techniques, along with KYB struts. Overall, it lowered my car by about an inch. Going to coil-overs will provide you with greater adjustment, but might be a bit of overkill unless you plan to track the car. Below is a good write-up on strut and spring options.

Mark Lyons' website is a great source for general Z knowledge and he also sell a few parts as well. https://zcarguide.com/

Given the engine is not stock and smog exempt due to age, you may want to look into removing the excess emissions plumbing. It makes for a less cluttered engine bay. You get bonus points because the old owner fitted a series-one air cleaner housing on your car 👍

Nice car. Interesting to see the engine was change to an L-28, but smog equipment from an L-24 has been retained. I would recommend Sam's Datsun in Winnetka to have a look at your car. He's one of the last of the breed mechanics that worked for a Datsun dealership during the period. He's priced fair and no gimmicks. https://samsdatsunsfv.wixsite.com/winnetka

My first Z was 114 brown with a butterscotch interior, sporting a half vinyl roof in black. IIRC...it was a faux alligator skin texture.

The whole series thing just helps establish a sub-category value pecking order and strokes egos of early production owners.

It has been years since I had to swap an oil pressure sending unit out and I don't recall an o-ring. I say just get some high temp thread sealant and give it a try. It is the cheapest and least invasive first step in the process.

Get an estimate from a reputable shop that can respray the area and blend the paint with the rest of the panel and give it to the offending detailer. At a minimum, they should at least pay half for the correction. Get it fixed and put up for sale. Unfortunately, it's very likely the repair will not fade at the same rate as the rest of the car and will be more obvious as time goes by.

Looks to be an early '74 260Z.

Thanks for the information👍 I bookmarked their website.

The places you mentioned that offers free shipping on large orders enjoy the benefits of economy of scale. Companies like Summit and Jegs offers a vast product line that covers a variety of models and makes. As a result, they can negotiate shipping arrangements with logistic companies without adversely impacting their bottom line.

My money is on the series-one fan blades versus a heat shield.

I currently have a '72 with build of 12/71 purchased from the original owner that has the same belts pictured. I've owned a couple of 1973 cars and they had the plastic sleeves at the base.

The troubleshooting methodology you posted seems logical and I would have followed the same steps. That said, I had a similar issue my on the 1973 I owned years ago. The vapor lock issue was addressed as per the Datsun service directive, but I would find myself stranded at times. In my situation it was more of a flooding issue than vapor lock. I adjusted the floats, which seems to resolve the issue. On interesting side note: Years ago, I drove this very car to the Nissan dealership in Santa Maria, CA to purchase an OEM oil filter. Then, I got in the car would not start after much cranking. An older service technician saw me struggling and walked over. He asked me to pop the hood open and then he began removing the plug wires from the plugs and re-inserting them back on just short of being snapped into place. He then asked me to crank the car again and it started!!! I'm not sure what voodoo or magic makes this work, but I was grateful nonetheless. I had to use this technique a couple more times before eventually selling the car.

I resealed my doors with thick plastic from the local Home Depot along with 3M Strip-Calk.

I have converted two of my vehicles to Evans Waterless coolant 4 years ago and pleased with the results thus far. You are correct about it not being compatible with water. However, my main concern it not a coolant mishap on the road, but rather Evans ability to preserve the coolant system internals while a vehicle is stored for prolonged periods of time.

I still like the classic original formula over the new stuff 😉

I still can't fathom it will be 20 years for me in just 10 days 😲

I personally would be leery mounting any bracket on a half-century old plastic console. Perhaps one of these goose neck mounts that plugs into the cigarette lighter?