zman112233

Here's the deal... I'm ready to sell my orange 240Z because I need the money. I bought this 240Z about two years ago. It ran great and I love the car but I have to let go of it now. Here is the current status: Like all these 240Z's the clock in the dash didn't work. I bought a new clock and took some of the dash out to install it. The weather got extremely cold so thought I'd pick it up when the weather got warmer. It sat for about 6 months and when I came to start it it wouldn't start. Turns out I needed a new fuel pump. Replaced that and the car started perfectly. The problem is when I go to put it in gear it won't shift in to first. My dad said it's probably just the clutch plates stuck together from sitting and it needs to be rocked to free them. Either way I need the money and don't have time to fool with it. Here's the question: What should I ask as a selling price? It was repainted in 2006 I think and other than some of the dash taken out it's all around pretty decent. I'm not saying it's a perfect car, but it not a clunker either. It if had a couple of solid hours of TLC I think it would be great. I have attached an image of it below. I paid $3,000 for it and I've put a new battery, alt, fuel pump, clock, etc. What should I price it at?

Ok, here's the update. I climbed under the car and found what should be the wires for the fuel pump back by the gas tank. The problem comes in the fact I can't find any place they were connected! I found the fuel gauge connection, but no place to plug in a fuel pump. It doesn't look like the wires were ever connected to anything. (Two wires, a black wire and a green wire) I tested the wires and there is no voltage to them. I couldn't find the green wire under the dash you were speaking of. Maybe I wasn't looking in the right place? Is it possible there is no electronic fuel pump on this model but there is wiring for it? Thank in advance for your help. I'm desperate.

Hey guys! Thanks in advance for your help! Here is my deal: I have a 73 240Z. It won't start. If I spray starter fluid into the carbs it will run for second and then die. I no longer hear the fuel pump kick on when I turn the ignition. I also don't see any gas come in the fuel filter. That makes me assume the fuel pump has died. It's been sitting untouched for a couple months at a friends house and I need to move it as soon as possible. Now to my questions. I feel strongly the fuel pump is dead. How do I check the wiring to make sure some connections just didn't come loose. I'm not sure where the wiring harness runs back there. (I checked the fuse panel in the dash and none of the fuses look blown) If it connections and fuses are good what's the process in replacing the pump? Thanks again for any help!

That's very impressive! On a scale of 1-10, how difficult would that be without any welding knowledge?

I dug a little further and it looks like the PO spliced the choke warning light wiring to wire up the CD player. Looks like I'll just disconnect the light and be done with it.

I never thought about the switch being swapped for the seat belt light, but I doubt it. My thought is he either cut the switch out or unhooked it from the choke and just stuffed it somewhere. It would be being pressed by something in the days.

Chris, thanks for your input. My guess is that the previous owner has removed the switch. I don't see anything like it anyhere. He may have disconnected it and then just threw the switch up in the dash. If that is the case I really don't need the choke light. Any harm in just disconnecting it? Oh, I do remember one thing. Before I cleaned my combo switches whenever I would hit a bump or use my blinkers all my dash lights would go out and the choke light would come on. Now all my combo switches work great but the choke light won't go out. Don't know if that helps anyone....

I actually removed the center console last night and there are no wires or switches coming from the choke cable area. Is it possible that the previous owner cut them out or removed them? Any idea where they connect up? If that's the case I guess I could just disconnect it. There's no chance that the "choke warning light" could be a general fault indicator is there? Like if there's a short or problem in the system it would cut on. I looked at the wiring diagram and I dont' even see a section for a switch or light.

My choke warning light is not going out. Anytime I have the keys in the ignition and turn it to the first click and after start up the light says on. Sometimes when I turn the headlights on it will go off... but not always. It's a 73. Anyone have any ideas? Where is the sensor for the choke warning light at anyway?

You might want to check to make sure the cable is going all the way into the transmission. I had a slightly similar problem. The cable wasn't going far enough in to make contact so it would never spin. I finally had to put a rubber seal on the outside of the flat part of the cable between the connector and the screw on cap to force it in deep enough. Also make sure it's not binding up anywhere along the way. BTW, so claim there are a couple of different cables for different model years. I've heard they are color coded. Don't know how much truth there is to that....

I see there is one of these for sale on eBay. eBay Link Has anyone ever used this video? Is it worth buying? I've heard a lot of people swear by this video.

Anyone have any suggestions for me?

Anyone have a guide on how to acutally disconnect the switches and remove them from the steering column?

Hey all! Here is my issue. I've been working on my 73' 240Z lately and it's coming along nicely. I did a little carb work and got my choke working properly but now when I accelerate from low RPM's there is a hesitation before the car accelerates. If I'm moving along nicely and then press the accelerator it accelerates just fine. I added oil to the carbs (Automatic transmission fluid) because the piston in the carb was hard to lift even with my finger. Now the action is nice and smooth. I don't know if has anything to do with it but the rear carb (round top SU's) seems to slick a little after it falls all the way down. Could the needle be causing it to stick when it drops? *BTW, to anyone that complains about your gas pedal being stiff at first... After I changed the oil in the carbs the gas pedal is now nice and easy without the stiff action and then the hard acceleration that comes from the throttle then being wide open. Thank you everyone for your help!

Try playing with the combo switches. Mine had the same problem and fulling with the switches fixed it.