kirkE

you dont' happen to have the larger m22x1.5x30 bolts that fit into the top of the control arm by chance? I need one

I have lost one of the rear control arm bolts and having a heck of a time finding a replacement. Any one have one for sale or can tell me who still supplies these bolts?

Well my original antenna just isn't cutting it anymore. I recently purchased an Harada MX 3 antenna and now see that it wants a DPDT switch and not the original SPDT switch (which basically puts +12V to go up and then reverses +12 V to do down.) Any schematics out there on how to "fool" the wiring so that I can use my original up/down switch with the new MX3 antenna? Also, I want to be able to stop my antenna and not have it go all up or all down like the modern antenna do today.

Marty the brakes are better....but...still not as firm as I would have expected. After isolating lines, I finally took it to a mechanic who said that he could not find any air in the lines? He said he adjusted the rear drums and while the brakes work better, I still get about half a pedal of travel before I get any brakes? I still think most brakiing is at the end of the pedal travel. I think I am going to increase the length of the vacuum boost rod to see if there is something with the engagement at the MC. Maybe I am expecting too much "modern" performance out of these brakes. They do stop well but I would just expect that at about 25% pedal travel I would get some kind of braking action???

Marty Thanks for the advice. I will give it a shot this weekend. I am at wits end on this? I think I will pull the rear wheel cylinders and just clean them up as well, although I can't find any leaks and they are only a couple years old, That said the brakes have never been firm? I also tried to backfeed the fluid and push it from the rear wheel forward, but the system must have a check valve or something because I could not get it to take fluid? Thanks again for the suggestion

I have a 70 240z and the brakes have always been soft from when I originally restored the car. I finally decided to upgrade and fix the issue. I just put on the new Toyota front calipers but I still have the drums on the rear. I have pulled a gallon of brake fluid through the lines but I still get air bubbles out of the rear wheel cyclinders and the pedal remains as soft as ever. Here is what I have replaced 1.) New 1" MC from Datsun Parts - figured the 30% extra fluid would fix it. Nope 2.) New vacuum booster from O'riely's - checked the old vacuum boost for reaction disk- fixed that - it didn't help and so I bought a new one - no help 3.) Took off and cleaned the proportioning valve 4.) Hooked up my air compressor to the brake lines trying for force fluid out (somewhere - anywhere) and find what I assume is an air leak - no help 5.) Found a leaking rear wheel cyclinder, fixed that, no leak now but still get air out of the rear 6.) I have bleed the MC multiple times, gravity feed, vacuum pulled, and even done the old two man method and I can't get these things to firm up? Any advice??

I was changing out the starter and like a DA reversed the + and soleinoid connections. After realizing my mistake, and a few cranking moments later, I reversed the connections. Now I have no electrical power to the car? I changed out the ignition switch, fusilbe links are still good, battery is good. Its like there is a master fuse link blown somewhere in the vehicle but I can't find it? I have power to the connection side of the switch but nothing after that. its like the entire car is dead? Any thoughts

Ok - blew out all the lines, car ran great in the 6 mile test run. I think it is fuel. Thanks for all the great suggestions

I did have the tank boiled out and coated. But, that said when I drained the tank the drain plug was coated over with this rubber type coating. It got me thinking about the pick up tube and so I dropped the tank ( a ton of fun by the way) and made sure I could at least get air through it. It sounds a bit strained I must admit, but my clear fuel filter shows gas. I did not blow out the return fuel line, so I will try that. I can also say that now that I drained the tank - the car will run on 3 cyclinders and not quite die. Hmmmm.

Ok - I am stumped, new points, dist, coil, cap, new fclear fuel filter with gas drained and lines blown out. Car will idle for hours, drive 4 to 5 miles after it reaches temperature and it starts to bog and then dies. After I drained the gas it actually drove for about 10 miles around town and then did it again. Wait 10 min. and then it starts and maybe makes it home or dies another time. I have fuel, I have voltage at the points? I have replaced the wire from the coil to the points on the dist. Had my turn signal and combo switch rebuilt. Could it be the starter switch on the back of the ignition key switch. I have pulled and tugged on the wiring but can't make it quit. Any ideas 70 240z just rebuilt engine, runs like a champ --- just before it dies..

From the factory wiring harness I have a blue fused wire, a white wire and a white/blue wire. Problem is that both the white and white/blue have been cut at the connector and I don't know where they go to the radio? There is a small round female type connector on the left rear side of the radio, I have taken the radio apart and if I jumper a couple of the pins together then I get a light on the front of the radio to come on. So far no sound, but can anyone advise where these two wires go to the radio, is there a connector missing? Any scematics none of the wiring diagrams I have show these wires?

Guys I am having a heck of a time getting the idle correct on a 70 240z. Engine has just been professionally rebuild, Ztherapy did the carbs. Dist is original but has been cleaned up. I have to use the choke to get it started, then it jumps to about 3000 rpm's. Really freaks you out on a newly rebuild engine, I kill the choke and start adjusting the idle screws. If I put my hand over the mouth of the front carb I can get the rear to really sound nice, as soon as a I reverse the process and try to adjust the front, boom I jump to 3000 rpms again. I get the screw almost closed to slow down the idle and then the car dies and I repeat the process. I have adjusted the floats several times at .55 inches. I can't even get to the timing as the car either is idling too high or dies. The timing is at full retard. Any thoughts? Kirk