superfunk

It sounds like you have jumped one section of your ignition switch. You still use to ignition to start the car because that part of the switch is working fine. Try starting the car with the headlights on, do they go out like they should? I'm willing to bet they dont. You have to have the cutoff switch off to shut off the car because it is the only switch in the main line now. I'd say go back and recheck your wiring. I wish I could help you more, but I dont have a schematic in front of me right now.

I had the tank out of the car for other reasons. I believe its possible to get at it while its in the car - you might have to just lower it a little bit. This is just a guess because I did have the tank out.

The fuel sending unit works like a variable resistor. It changes the resistance on the ground side of the guage circuit. The black wire is a ground, and the other one comes from the guage. You can test the operation of the unit by measuring resistance across the two posts. Mine was not working, I took it out and cleaned it with contact cleaner - it works great now. I hope that helps a little bit. Oh yeah, if I remember correctly, the black wire went on the bottom post - but i dont know if it really matters.

Fairlday, I had that same problem not too long ago. Simply cleaning my connections and switch fixed it right up. If the connections are poor, there may be enough power to actuate the flasher when you headlights are off, but when they are on, your headlights might draw just enought to push it under the limit so they wont work. Now after saying that - it could also be that your relay is on its way out. I'd say to clean your connections and switch first, and if that fails to spend a couple bucks on a new relay.

Just for some clarification, how much play is normal in the diff. With my rear wheels on the ground, how far should I be able to turn to the drive shaft? or should I be able to?

As far as 'not working'. Do the lights not come on at all, or do they come on and not flash. If they dont come on at all, you have a bad connection somewhere. If they just dont flash, you need a new relay. They cost like $5 at Canadian Tire, and are pretty easy to come by.

Ok, Its been a while but I have a quick update to the situation. The noise only occurs in 1st and 2nd. I drained the oil and there were a bunch of filing (i wasnt too worried about that) and a piece of metal (alluminum I think) about a centimeter long. So im guessing I have a bearing gone. I guess I'll find out for sure once I pull it out and take a look at the internals.

Are there oil passages in the cam? If so then it has probably been set up to be internally oiled. Someone else could probably give you more information on that. I still run the oil bar

I think he is looking for, same driver lapping in both cars. Say like if you gave the cars to The Stig from Top Gear. Which one would get around the track the quickest. I am also interested in this.

Hi, I was wondering if someone could post me a picture of the proper connector for the fuel sending unit. The previous owner had some thing hacked together that failed pretty quickly. I was looking at CT today and couldnt see anything that seemed to fit it right. Thanks Adam

Would this cause the sound only on deceleration? It seems to me like that sound would always be present (when the clutch is engaged) Thanks, for the ideas, and keep them coming please. I might get a chance to change the oil tomorrow, I'll post how it works out.

Nice, that gives me a little optimisim for when I get that done early this week. Hopefully its not bearings, but that wouldnt be too big of a deal to do.

So I had my 71 240 out for a little drive today. I have an early 5 speed. It makes an awful grinding sound while decelerating unless I disengage the clutch. I check the oil, and it was a little low, but not terrible. I'm planing on changing it out for some synthetic. Any thoughts as to what could be causing this sound. Thanks,

A bit off topic, but has everyone owend a buick?

jackwarnock, I know exactly what your saying. My good friend drives his '69 VW halfway across canada a couple times each year, and usually only carries simple tools and a spare tire. I guess when dont drive these cars regularly for long distances, you get a bit paranoid when you finally do. I guess though, they wont be the ones stuck on the side of the road praying that they can get their car going again....

Im not really at the stage where I should be buying this sort of thing, but I found these mirrors on ebay and think they look pretty good. Does anyone have a picture of them on a z? Also, are they common, as in will they come up on ebay again and again? Are there decent reproductions available. Thanks, Adam http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260105508154&sspagename=ADME:L:RTQ:CA:1

Thanks, So just to get this right. That tank traps fumes allowing them to condense and go back into the tank?

Not too hijack this thread, but what will improve throtle response the most? I've always puzzled over what affects throtle response.

So I was working on my wiring in the hatch today, when I pulled off the passengers side panel to reveal a plastic container with a bunch of hoses on it. Is that a charcoal canister?... should it be inside the passenger compartment? Also, it appears my awesome previous owner has replaced a wheel stud with a standard one some time ago... .really annoying cause there is only one nut that must go on that stud.... What is the proper standard size to replace this. Thanks, Adam by the way its my 71 240z

Are you against the idea of making a sliding door? I've seen a couple really nice setups like that.

Oops, sorry. I meant alternator.. Had starters on my mind I guess when I wrote that.

I have one of the ealier E-88 style heads on my L24 that is similar to the E-31. It seems to have had the bigger valves put in it. I assume that my block has been bored because it runs fine.

I dont see one at the starter. Where exactly would it be. Or was it omitted for the '71. Thanks,

I may be wrong, and Im sure someone will correct, but this is what i figure. The cam is not the only thing getting hot. Everything in there is getting hot including the aluminum head. Aluminum and steel undergo very different thermal expansions. Im pretty sure that aluminum expands more than steel. So your block get "thicker" making less valve stick up and giving you a larger gap. If I'm completely wrong, someone please correct me.

Thanks, My concern was with fit. I wasnt sure if the bell housing mounts changed over the years. I was curious becuase BD shows different starters for some different years. Thanks,