superfunk

Hi, I tore my head off today to get it machined. Looking at the pistons I noticed something. They are all marked with "F2" on the top, except for one, which is marked with "F3". Does this mean anything? Thanks, Adam

Thanks, I have been talking to a couple people locally who are telling me that with a stock cam interference is not an issue. I am looking at picking up a stock N42. They say that only when you change the lift that you have to notch the block. Anyone know about this?

Thanks for the tip KSteve. Sure saved me some headaches there. Does anyone have pictures of their block after it's been notched?

Thanks, Is the compression ration for an L28. I forgot to mention that this is an L24. Is there a difference in stroke of these two? Im pretty much getting it back on the street, I wont have time for a proper rebuild for a little while. At that time i'll definately find an L28 block to build.

Will it work? I've read around a bunch of articles, none of them really answering my question. Thanks, Adam

"If your engine starts to run too hot or overheat, SHUT IT DOWN IMEDIATELY, because it can cause extensive engine damage." I've always heard that leaving a car idle when its overheated is better than shutting it down imediately. A car heats up when it is shut down because the antifreeze stops pumping. You want to keep that coolant moving to help cool your engine off quicker.

Thanks, Looks like they are out too. I guess its the waiting game for a little while.

I am trying to get a set of cam tower shims. I've been waiting two weeks to get them grom Goodson. Now they tell me it will be another 4 weeks. Are there other places to get these? I've tried hard to find them with no luck. thanks

Send me an email at call_me_maurice@hotmail.com to discuss. Im not sure if this is the right place for these deals. I have both a horizontal and a vertical defroster windshield. -Adam

I have a bunch of parts that came with my 240z when I purchased it not too long ago. I dont have room to keep it all. I have decided to sell some of it. The common stuff, fenders, hoods, etc I believe I have an idea of what they are worth. The probelm comes when I am trying to figure out what to sell (or expect to get for) parts which I havent seen for sale much. Theese includes: Door Windows Hatch Windows Those (ugly) bars that go over the bumpers I would go the ebay route, and just let the natural forces of the universe determine what its all worth, but I really dont want to deal with shipping glass parts, and prefer to do business in person. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, -Adam

I do not see how this would be beneficial. From my understanding, you are trying to mimic the sinusoidal wave of AC electricity to make it more "natural". AC is a very unnatural thing. If you look at electicity occuring in nature, lighting comes to mind first, it tends to be of a DC nature. But this is a moot point. It would seem to me that delivering a constant voltage to create a spark would be the most effective. Assuming that you have a maximum time in which spark can be delivered. The energy is defined by the area under the time plot of the charge. This is the energy that is being applied to the plug to create a spark. Therefore, the more energy you have, the bigger the spark you get. Assuming that the peak voltages are the same, the area under a DC curve (flat line at the peak voltage) is much higher than that of the sinusoidal AC curve. Now, from what I gather, you want to produce your spark in two stages, one being a positive DC voltage and the other being of negative DC voltage. Theoretically, if you could switch between the positive and negative instantaneously, which is highly unlikely to actually happen, at best you will reproduce the energy created by the constant DC source. Now as for polarity. All that changing polarity will do is change the direction in which the spark is formed. I am not entirely familiar with some of the intricate details of Internal Cumbustion Engines, but I would bet that the direction of spark will have little effect on the combustion efficiency. So I guess in short, doing this in my opinion, would create a net effect (I dont see a positive effect) of less spark. -Adam

Im from Kingston. I managed to get ahold of a couple engine builders and machinests that were familiar with the L24 engine. Their advice was that whoever rebuilt the head messed up and should have shimmed the cam towers.

After reading this, and what others have written, I figure I'll have to shim to cam towers. I'll keep posted as to how it works out. Any suggestions on a good supplier for shims?

I wish I knew how much came off the head. The story on this car is that I bought it off someone in a non-running condition. The guy was selling it because of the classic wife and kids story. He had blown the head gasket, removed the head and had it remachined.. and that's where he stoped the work. So I guess is there an easy way to fix this without knowing how much was taken off.... . or should I be investigating that?

The timing is right. when looking at the pistons, none of them are up when the valves are down. The problem is that the springs are being compressed too much, as in the rocker arms are going too low.

Wow, I didnt expect all this controversy over a simple question. And just for the record, the tip about loosening off the oil pan was very useful, thankyou.

Hi, I have the cam timing set properly on my 71 240z, but I have run into what I see as an unusual problem. The head has recently been machined. After doing a cold adjust on the valves, the cam would not turn through a full rotation. After alot of investigation, it was found that the cam was trying to compress a couple of the valve springs further than they wanted to go. Has anyone here had a problem like this. What is the easiest fix? Thanks

Thanks for the responses. Im going to tackle this tommorow.. if it stops snowing

Thanks, That's what I wanted to know

Just a quick question concerning removing my timing cover. I have fallen victim to the rookie mistake of a poorly wedged tensioner, and it has popped out. So I'm taking the timing cover off. Should I be concerned with draining the oil first? Does the oil level sit above the bottom of the timing cover. I know this sounds like a stupid question, but I am new to working on Z cars and dont want to have oil spilling all over the place, and would rather not have to drain the oil just to get my timing set. I appreciate your responses -Adam

i am looking at buying my first Z car. Its a 1970 240 with the 5 speed out of a '76 260. Clean car, marginal rust, rebuilt head. I have a couple questions that I hope you guys can answer for me. Was there a difference between the Canadian and US delivered vehicles. Also, how many of you use your Z as a daily driver. Is this a realistic expectation for a vehicle in good condition.