bears240

just reading you post and decided to look at the wiring diagram in the haynes guide and it shows a 30 amp fuse for the blower motor(seperate inline fuse) for both the "240z basic model s30 series usa" and the "240z late model s30 series usa.- manual and automatic transmission. pages 168, and 169 haynes manual.

I have done the same alt. conversion you speak of the reason you have jumped the wires at the regulator location is one wire senses the batt voltage at all times and regulates accordingly, while the othe provides 12v while you start the car so it produces a generating field from the get go, and you dont have to rev the car to like 2000 rpm to start making charging voltage. a good test for your alt. is a basic volt test at your batt. with a multimeter. Start by testing with the car off, you should be at around 11.5-12.5 volts. now start the car and repeat test, now voltage at the batt. should be around 13-14.4 or really close. this is a good charging voltage the only time you really can't pin point an alt problem with the correct voltage is if the diodes go bad, you still will sometimes get the proper voltage, however the bridge could be bad and you diode ripple vill be wrong. your local auto parts store should be able to rund a quick free charging system test for you. hope this answers at least one of your questions.

xray, this is a good product just this small oversight all in all i am happy with it. also dont tighten the mounting screws for this fuse block really tight my failure here helped speed this along.

thanks for the phonetics lesson

oops i moved the 240z comment to the right place. sorry.

Hello I'm new here, and ive read a lot of good posts. just wanted to pass some information on.after a month of trying to find out why my headlights intermitantly turned on while the car was parked, even after completely removing the headlight switch, i narrowed to the motorsport printed circuit fuse block "upgrade" it seems the back of the printed circuit board like all printed circuit boards have these very sharp nipples where there soldered to the board. since the wires are all ran across the sharp areas, my wire for the parking lights was pierced by the fuse holder for the headlight which in turn made my headlight come on even with no headlight fuse(getting power from the parking light circuit) hope this helps somebody. my fix was putting a piece of hard plastic in between the wires and circuit board solders.

the pertronix point eliminator set up is really slick and you keep your stock dist. and get a high performance coil or just scrap the ballast resistor.

Hello I'm new here, and ive read a lot of good posts. just wanted to pass some information on.after a month of trying to find out why my headlights intermitantly turned on while the car was parked, even after completely removing the headlight switch, i narrowed to the motorsport printed circuit fuse block "upgrade" it seems the back of the printed circuit board like all printed circuit boards have these very sharp nipples where there soldered to the board. since the wires are all ran across the sharp areas my headlight wire for the parking lights was pierced by the fuse holder for the headlight which in turn made my headlight come on even with no headlight fuse(getting power from the parking light circuit) hope this helps somebody my fix was putting a piece of hard plastic in between the wires and circuit board solders.