veejayz

View Advert Wanted 240Z throttle bell crank 280z rod to firewall connector My throttle linkage is not good. I believe I have a 'pusher' bell crank, when I should have a puller. This may be left over from a Weber carb setup. It is what is in the photo. Anyway, I think what I need is a 240 bell crank. Pre July 72. Although I don't need it, I do also have a 'flat bar' throttle rod from later cars, and the folks at ZTherapy recommend that, along with a 280Z connector from the throttle rod to the firewall. Please let me know if you can help me out. Advertiser veejayz Date 02/03/2021 Price $0.99 Category Parts Wanted Year 1972 Model 240Z

View Advert Weber Carb Manual Weber Carb owners workshop manual. $20 shipped. Advertiser veejayz Date 01/28/2021 Price $20.00 Category Parts for Sale

I'm on my last body panel and of course run into unexpected issues. Rust has infiltrated between the hatch skin and the 'doubler' shown in the picture. The result is some pinholes in the outer skin, and a lot of swelling between the two pieces of steel. This piece clearly had to come out. Question is what to do now. I think replacing the piece and joining it with body adhesive is probably the way to go. Any suggestions as to what material can be used between these two pieces of steel that will keep water and rust out? Or any other suggestions on how to repair this area? Thanks in advance.

I was just messing with one of these today. On mine I 'unscrewed' them. They are just a steel ring with a rubber lining, covering a zerk port. I tried tapping them off first, but when I tried to turn them, they were about half way onto the threads, so they just screwed off. I figured that was easier on the rubber than dragging them across the threads. I screwed them back on.Somebody who knows more than me can probably tell us if they are stops, or just covers for the zerk opening, or both.

I have a 4 speed out of a 4/71 240Z. Is there any interest in these early tranny's? Are they worth any more than the type B? I don't plan on keeping it, but I also am not interested in shipping it. It was pulled from a parts car that was parked due to rust, I am told. So I do not know its condition. It's in Lincoln, NE if anyone is interested.

I'm looking for one of these. I didn't notice the 'tang' was broken off until I had media blasted it. Let me know what you have. Left hand, lower hinge, door side. Thanks

I received the 'unicorn' today, and it is as described. Thanks Jim. As to why I wanted rubber, it is strictly for drive-ability. The car came to me with one of the hard plastic couplers. It was pretty harsh, but the entire suspension system was shot, so there were more issues involved. The car is currently on a rotisserie, and when it goes back together I plan on going with a combination of poly and rubber bushings, going with the advice I have seen on these forums. Whitehead performance claims that their coupler is a softer grade of poly, so it would be interesting to compare it to the regular poly and to the oem rubber. Not cheap either at about $50. Rubbers for these cars can add up in a hurry

pm'd I've been looking for a unicorn

I think it's early. It has ' Two muffler hanging tangs + short shifter mount ears = 77-78 280z '. It also has the cover with 6 bolts near the back. I tried turning the input and that had no effect. It's like it hits a hard stop when you go towards 5th. pictures will be better

I'll poke him and see what he says. $150 for the tranny and a driveshaft, so it's not like I'm out a whole lot if he won't take it back. Thanks for the reply.

Bought what was supposed to be an operational 78 5 speed on CL. It is on my workbench, not hooked up to an engine. Put a shifter on it and ran through the gears, but I cannot get it into 5th gear. is there ANY reason it should not go into 5th? It acts just like my 4 speed. I thought I would look foolish here before I go back to the seller and look like an idiot. In my defense, I've never had a 5 speed out of the vehicle, so I'm not sure how it should act. I assume it should just slide into 5th. It goes to all of the other gears easily, including reverse. Maybe the guy didn't know what he had. The case is the 'B' type, so it could be a 4 or 5 speed? Be gentle.

Since this topic has been revived I'll use it to ask a question that I haven't seen addressed in any of the floor threads I've seen. I have two reinforcement pieces welded to the inner rear underside of each floor panel. I outlined them with blue tape in the picture. There is also the reinforcements for the transmission support. So what do you do with these? Cut through them? Separate them and re-weld? Cut around them? Remove and replace them with new?

So the question remains. Are the seals necessary and or desirable if you switch to poly bushings? I don't have the parts yet so I can't test fit it. And I have never had my hands on the poly bushings to know how they would fit. I haven't placed my OEM order yet, so I could leave 4 seals in the warehouse for someone else if they are not needed.

If the rubber bushings are replaced with the poly bushings, do you still install those rubber seals on the outside of the spindle pins, or are they not necessary?

Do you still need one of these? I have one that is a little twisted, but servicable. I should have another one, but didn't see it on a quick scan of parts. They are off of a 4/71 build. I will send one or both to you for $15 american, shipped.