Rebel-Z

I have HEAT! Thanks Jim, Stephen, for the diagrams. Turns out the only problem I had was lost vaccuum, preventing the air from passing over the matrix. I unhooked the tension spring and manually forced the door open... and it is gonna be chilly tomorrow. Felt like a kid at Christmas. Rebel-Z

That's it then. The core is clogged at the valve...or the core is clogged period. My luck, prolly the latter...no, my luck prolly BOTH. OK, no sense worrying about a vaccuum issue if the core is bad. Will turn my attention to that area. Y'all have a good nite and we'll see if we can git er done next weekend. L8r, Rebel-Z

I mistook the intake flap for the air distribution flap. I must figure out how to close the air distribution flap so the air will stop passing over the evaporator ( I originally called the condenser...I need to stick to sinmpler terminologies like "thing-a-ma-bob" and "doo-hickey")

Then why does the water channel out when I force water through one end? Or is it by passing the core altogether..I'm not savvy enough. Thanks for the diagrams and input. Will keep plugging away.

Tell me: Shouldn't the heater core at LEAST feel hot or warm if water is circulating through it? Feels cold to the touch even when engine is warm

oh that's good..thanks, bud.

Whoa. How to get to the valve. Well, I mean the air is blowing all of the time across the air conditioner condenser, no matter which way I slide the lever (ac/heat/def), but the lower door opens on heat. How do I manually open the heater door...I did try reversing the hoses, but wasn't sure which was "correct", the inlet from the nib on the block, or the lower feed to the lower radiator hose. Oh well...what about tje vaccuum lines?

Well, the server was down yesterday, so no reply. OK, here is what I found: air blows 100% of time across condenser, water travels through the core in one direction ONLY (flushing), and two vaccuum lines are cut in the engine compartment at firewall. Still no heat. BTW, the INLET hose to heater core connects to the BLOCK or the copper tube that connects to the LOWER radiator hose?

Ahhhh. blower works, but not being forced through the core...hmmmm. I'll see if that is the case. OK, you have given me something to try. I will let you know tomorrow how the troubleshooting turned out. Thanks, JimmyZ

I disconnected them from the supply (left attached at the firewall) and did one direction only. Will try the other direction tomorrow. Reason I felt there was no circulation was when I disconnected the lines there was a look of undiluted coolant (from the engine drainage), while I knew the radiator was not that dense. And the lower hose was not as hot as the other hoses.

Well, the core purged nicely. Tstat is high temp stat (sits midway in the gauge when engine warm). No leaks inside. Not sure what to look for in a faulty switch, but will see what there is to see, based on your location description. thanks.

Not physically, apart from the "feel" of the controls (sufficient resistance). OK, so, begging your pardon but how do I determine if the heater valve is bad? And do I need to drop the dash to check it? Thanks,

OK, wasn't sure. Heard both ways. Trying to solve a heater problem, as I have no heat in the car. I flushed the heater coil and changed the thermostat, but to no avail. Almost seems like the pump isn't doing a good job of circulating the water, even though the car doen't over heat. Is there another problem to check for the lack of heat in the car?

Is it necessary to change the fan clutch while changing the water pump? Thanks