Tkach

My thinking is this on my problem (I'm not trying to hijack this thread) That the Turn signal Lights and brake lights also function as the running lights, and these function normally meaning if I hit the brakes or signal they function, however when I put on my head lights the dash lights do not function nor do I have external running lights. So I can safely assume that my problem lies in my dash lighting system. correct?

I have the same problem but I have a ez harness (crap) the signal lights work headlights brake lights reverse lights all work. However the running lights and dash lights fail to function.

sblake01 Its a suggestion, It could be a possibility as nothing ever works as it should.

Im having a similar issue Id suggest checking all of your bulbs.

My test light was grounding to chassis. The concept was if the RL wire had current it would light up the test light I had the Test light in the circuit to complete it and not leave an open end. I have no power running to the test light the green white wire runs in its stock manner IE from combo switch to gauge bulbs then to exterior running lights. I will be at work tomarrow so Hopefully Thursday or Friday I can sort this mess out.

KTM I am not trying to waist anyones time here, and trust me am very appreciative of all the help. I am no electrical expert and this is why I am in this situation. But what I can gather is this it dose not seem that this circuit is causing me a problem as all indications lead me to believe that it is working unless I am wrong. I did find several blow bulbs some even soldered to their housings I now see this is from the previous reversing of current. As my test's indicate things should be working now (with this circuit) unless I have interpreted my results incorrectly. Here are the results from the DMM Test 1 Try this with a multimeter (MM): set the MM to read ohms; place one lead on the free end of the RL wire that is hooked up to your test light; connect the other lead to black wire connection on the rheostat - if you measure a resistance, then this circuit has continuity. Result 1 Resistance was 1.8 ohms Test 2 Now, put one lead on the black wire connection to the rheostat and the second lead to any expose metal/bolt on the car that is connected to the chassis. This will test the grounding circuit. If you do not measure a resistance right away, make sure it is not due to poor contact with the leads. Once you have convinced yourself that you are, indeed, not measuring any resistance, you have found a faulty circuit. Resistance measured .03 ohms Note I used a ground wire on the same circuit just closer to my exposed Red blue wire Test 3 I tested the black wire coming out of the rheostat to chassis ground and saw nothing However when I tested continuity across the rheostat directly red blue to ground on the rheostat plug I saw resistance. Now I do have all of the exterior running lights on this circuit also and am starting to check them. I started at the dash because it hasn't worked in the recent past yet the running lights have. Considering that I may have an error in that circuit I will start to work on that section now, unless other interpret my results differently. Once again thanks for all the help

The running lights and gauge lights have their own circuit. Completely separate from the headlights. Completely different power sources. Once again my car has figured out a way to frustrate me, thats all it has been good for in the last three years.

The Red blue wire IS NOT spliced into the Green white wire anymore. I have an open end where the red blue wire used to be spliced into the green white wire however that end now runs threw my test light to ground. This is what is confusing me. It should be working

So today I bought some new bulbs for the gauge lights. I found that I had three bulbs that where blown and soldered to the connector. I disconnected the red blue wire from the red green wire. The red blue wire now runs from the rheostat down the line of gauges then finally into my test light. When I tried the combo switch Pop went the fuse SOOOO PISSED !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! any ideas ?

I have the hot running into the oppisite end from the rheostat. Hopefully I can just remove the hot source and things will work. WOOOO Hoooo!

KTM I do agree with you about the short commings of the ezharness, My wiper power fuse block has no power. So If i disconnect the red blue wire from a hot and just ground out the open end that leaves, allowing the other end to connect to the dimmer I should have this problem licked!?

Thanks for the help guys hopefully tomarrow i will be able to start in on this issue. Great information.

Sounds like a good start. I thought that all the dash lights grounded themselves out to the body of the gauge? maybe I have a blown light. I really want to get my car back on the road again but if it keeps this up it may take a trip to the crusher(i'm truly at the end of what I can take with this car 3 years and still stupid stuff like this keeps happening)

btw its a 1975 280z

So wiring with ez harness, I have a hot running to the green blue wire on the combo switch when switched it puts power to my green white wire which runs threw its stock locations IE the gauge's and then is spliced into the running lights. Note it is spliced into the red blue wire also running to the gauge's. I have a hot at the green blue wire when I turn on the circuit the fuse blows. So I took the dimmer switch out of the equation and still fuse blows as soon as I turn on the circuit. Headlights work however the dash lights and the running lights do not come on. Now I have in the past had the running lights working with a different wiring configuration however no dash lights. I am stuck here I'm not exactly sure how to trace this problem as immediately when receiving power the fuse blows. Any ideas????? Ive been trying to get this car back on the road for 3 years now and this is the current main issue keeping me from driving it please help!!!!!!!!!!