ArnieTX

Maybe somebody can study the following pictures and my comments and help me out. Somebody on this site should be able to tell me which direction to go or how to troubleshoot further. I'm at the end of my rope here. I think I'm missing a part but not sure. The biggest issue is not getting 12V to the starter solenoid when the key is in START. And I think inhibitor switch and neutral safety switch are probably the same part/terms.......who knows. I'm scratching my head. What's the next step? Thanks

Inside pic

This is the part. Anyone know what it is or have a part number? Thanks for the pic Jeff!

Courtesy Nissan has an "inhibitor switch" but they say that is mounted on/in the side of the tranny. I agree. Does anyone have a part number for the Starter Interlock Inhibitor Switch? Thanks

Yes - Please post a pic or a few.... Much appreciated. EScanlon - Thank you. I will look into that further. By looking at the wiring diagram I assumed the inhibitor switch (BY/BY/RB/R) was built into the tranny because of the color wires coming out of it. Maybe the inhibitor switch called out in the wiring diagram is a different part than what you are referring to. I say this because of the color coding of that empty plug. The empty plug has 6 wires. Thanks for ya'lls help.

Can anyone identify what goes here? I believe this part is the key to getting this vehicle to crank. I've gone through every wiring diagram I can find and cannot account for this plug or what connects to it. Thanks

Do you mean "Start" or "Crank"? Would the starter kick over when y ou tried to start the car? I'm troubleshooting a 72 with an automatic. I can't get it to crank. Thanks

There are no jumpers anywhere. So I set the ignition to run and measure 12V on one of those B/Y wires that plug into the inhibitor switch. I decided to unwrap the main wiring harness to see where these two wires go. I taped the hot wire with a piece of green tape to identify it. The wiring diagram shows B/Y from ignition through the inhibitor running to the starter solonoid. After unwrappiing the main harness that comes out of the passenger side firewall and runs to the front of the car, I found the "hot" B/Y wire actually tied directly to a B/W wire(assume same BW tied to ignition). The other B/Y wire (other female connector that hooks to inhibitor) runs back towards the firewall through the main harness. The B/Y wire that went to the starter also ran back towards the firewall through the main harness. I'm guessing one end goes to the back of the ignition and the other I have no clue. I looked under the drivers seat and pulled of a pressure switch. I closed it with vice grips and plugged it into the connector where the driver seat went. I buckled up the seatbelts. No joy. On another note, the inhibitor switch on the tranny is good. With the 12V wire applied, I measure 12V out the other side only when its in park and neutral. 1,2,D = 0VDC Root problem = no 12V present at solonoid(B/Y) when ignition turned to START. Electrical is a struggle but the answer is out there somewhere. The guy I am working on this for thinks there's a part that needs hooked up to a connector that comes of the same wiring harness. Two of the B/Y wires ohm out at this connector. That makes me think something plugs in there and does something. See thread below for part that this connector goes into. It's missing from this car. PIC #2 in this thread. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5899&highlight=interlock Can anyone offer some advice on what else I might look at or try? Thanks

I finally got some more time to troubleshoot this issue some more. The problem has changed now. For some reason, power is getting applied to one of the B/Y wires coming off the automatic tranny when the ignition is in the "ON" postion, before the "start" position is obtained. So went from nothing to getting 12V early. Last time I messed with it I was trying to bypass the wiring with home made jumpers. It sure seems like I left one in somewhere but I can't find it. Swapped ignitions of car#2 and no change. If anyone has any ideas please throw them my way. Thanks

Make sure your pedal is not bent in to the right. It should go to the floor. Mine was binding on something under the dash. Bent it a little left and it's fine now.

Thank you for sharing this. Awesome job!

Found a nugget from Escanlon: BRB - gotta check something

OK fellows, I need some help. 3/72 Automatic Tranny Vehicle was stripped of suspension and drivetrain at somepoint for undercoating so I am assuming everything was put back correctly Problem: Attempt to crank motor but only hear click under drivers side panel. This is a "delayed" click at turning the key to crank. Car #2 had an issue like this but it's "click" correlated to the exact moment the key went into the crank position. It was an easy fix. This click has a slight delay/lag that isn't lining up with the moment the key hits that position. Battery is good and charged. Came out of car #2. It's been in and out of both vehicles several times since I began troubleshooting this issue. Not a connection issue. Starter kicks over fine when shorting out BY spade connector from solonoid to + on starter with screwdriver. Rules out starter. Stuck a voltmeter on the same BY wire that comes out of the wiring harness and connects to the starter solenoid. With the key to the crank position, I do not see any voltage at all. I would expect 12v at the connector to be applied to the starter solonoid. No voltage present. Climbed under vehicle and located inhibitor switch wiring off a tranny. 4 wires, two BY and a R and RB. Test procedure said check for continuity between the BY wires while gear selector is in P and N....checked and showed less than an ohm-GOOD. In 1,2,D, and Rev, VM shows an open so I'm guessing this means that the shifter positions are lined up correctly with the switch. A check of the RB wire shows continuity only in reverse - GOOD according to the manual. The manual and numerous posts suggest shorting the two BY wires together bypasses the inhibitor switch. Tried this and it still will not crank. The seats are out of it and I remembered reading something a long time ago about the seatbelts not allowing a vehicle to start unless connected. I thought I read that if I shorted out the contacts on the connector that plugs into the seat side, it would bypass this as the problem. I tried it and it made no difference. Also buckled the seatbelts and that didn't help. I need to figure out why I am not getting 12v to the starter solonoid when the key is in the crank position. Something is broken or preventing it from getting there. The delayed "click" leads me to believe that something else is at play here or something is connected incorrectly under the dash. While I've forgotten 95% of the electronics I learned in the military, I still understand the logical aspect of troubleshooting. At this point, logic says go get a beer and reach out for some help. Ohmed out every fuse in the fuse block and all are good. Any ideas or direction I can head? Hopefully I've provided enough data. Thanks

Good luck with your search.

Find a Z and love on it. No hurry, no timelines, just drip on it when you can and enjoy your time with it.

I cleaned it out and it looks nice inside. I also took the carbs apart and cleaned them up. One had a choke frozen that required a little love(Thanks for the video Z-Therapy). I removed all the plugs and the engine turns over by hand. The plugs wires were connected backwards as if the #1 cylinder was at the firewall. I drained the gas tank and nothing exciting came out. After hooking up the battery to it from my car, I tried to crank it. Click. I'm pooped so I'll mess with it some more tomorrow. If I can get it to crank, I'll run it off my mustard bottle for a while then I'll fill up the tank. It's a 3/72 car in pretty decent shape.

Ausgang- sure PM me.

You make a very good point.

So I get home from Little League and decide to hop in the Z and drive it to a buddys house who is trying to stick a 1964 truck body onto a 1971 4WD Blazer frame. Honestly, that doesn't look like fun to me but he thinks the same thing about my Z. I leave and am taking the old back road home and I remember that the fellow who gave me #3 and whom I've never met before, lives off of this road. I give him a ring to tell him I'm in the neighborhood and that I'd like to come meet him. 10 minutes later we are talking about my Z and he said come with me. Now this fellow had a hot rod shop back in the day and he showed me some of the coolest cars I've ever seen. He said one of these days he's going to jump back in it. He flies crop dusters now and was in aircarft painting for years. Anyway, he said lets go for a ride and took me to where he had a 1972 240Z parked that needed to be restored for somebody, he just hasn't had time. He asked me if I could get the car running and to the point where he could finish the body and paint it. I said absolutely! He said when I get my Z ready for paint that he will paint it for me or show me how to do it myself. He even has some equipment like a sand blasting booth that he said I could borrow since his shop is all packed up. I am very lucky to have a resource in a good neighbor like him to pick his brain when needed. This fellow is one talented dude. Remember how I loaded my Z: His way is a little more effecient. Here it is in it's temporary home: I'm going to divert my time for a while to help this fellow out since he gave me #3. Start with the fuel system and try to get this running. The underside has been coated and the motor has been rebuilt. I love working on these things.

I have the stereo, I just didn't take a picture of it. Car #1 has a sweet stock AM radio that I may put into #3. I found out #1 has a working power antenna. #3 has one too and I pulled it yesterday, just haven't tested it. I'm scratching my head wondering if I need to put this on a rotisserie and take it that far. The rust doesn't seem to be that bad where I couldn't cut it our as it stands.

Datsun 8 track Worth keeping? Can anyone use it?

Got to work on it some more this evening. Pulled the interior except for the dash. Not too bad so far. Usual rusty floor areas. Found a fatty in the little recessed area under the center console. LMAO

I'm learning.

Floors are a definite replace, they are rusted out. I found a nice hole back by the spare tire area passenger side, that will probably be my first attempt at welding sheet metal into the car since it's a flat spot. I'll probably cut a piece out of car #1 to see if I can make it match. The cowling area was solid. I figured it would be rusty but it wasn't. Maybe I'll have everything out and off by the weekend. My lights are now working on #2. It's running good.

Got a lot accomplished on #3 today. Yanked the motor and tranny, pressure washed the engine bay to see what it looks like, and removed the front fenders and cowl. The battery area will need some new metal. The frame rails look clean with a little surface rust. #3 is definitely in better shape than #1 and #2. Keep trucking.