ctcurnes

Mine came already set-up when it was imported it from Japan. 280zx strut, H&R coilover and camber adjusters in front. Cut springs in rear. Will second the rides like a** comment. Japanese roads must be a lot smoother than what we have here in the US. I'm eventually going custom SPAX set-up, but I want to track it now and then.

Seems like famine currently. I'll let you know if I get ahold of one. I was thinking about measuring yours and going with a flaming river custom. With the amount of money I spent already, what another grand or two? Great progress, keep it up! Chris

I'd be in for a group buy, if someone will help with shipping to the United States after the parts arrive.

Brian, I would be interested in one of the firewall adapters as well. Also, any contact info for how to source a RHD rack would be helpful. The internet is letting me down on that one. Chris

Did you get them off of Yahoo Japan or from one specific supplier? Would like to know where you got the alloy dash cover. Thanks, Chris

Something to consider with the rack and pinion is the need to support the lower end of the steering column. On 280ZX box to rack swaps, you have to swap the steering column. There is a lower bearing in the rack column that is not needed when the steering column is attached to a steering box. Good to know the 280ZX is an almost straing bolt-in though. I was doing some measurements on mine and found many of the 280zx parts closer than sedan or coupe parts. I think the rear control arms are 280ZX compatable also, except for the shock mounts. Sounds like I need to get out to a junk yard and pull me a front suspension. I swapped in an L28ET, but had to modify the pan and oil pick-up. With a 280ZX crossmember, I could go back to the factory pan and pick-up as well as rack and pinion steering. My C110 already has the 280zx coil over strut conversion and Gabe at Techno Toy Tunning has a rear bolt-in coil over for the C110. Keep the build thead going. I am really interested in this swap. Chris

Here is a response I got from Alan T. awhile back. Thought i would post it for the record. However, I'm afraid I can't help with the grill and rear panel colour. The factory just called this 'Black', but it certainly seems to have been a little bit more like a very dark gunmetal. I don't think its a straight satin / matt black at all, and something like a very dark Anthracite with a fair bit of matting agent would be closest. I can understand why you'd want to get it 'right' ( me too! ) but to be honest almost all the genuine C110 GT-Rs left in Japan these days have had that pesky black repainted at least once if not several times, so there's hardly any chance to see an 'original' finish colour anyway. Even if there was some original paint, it would have faded and sun bleached to hell by now anyway. Even the two KPGC110s in the Nissan Heritage Collection have been repainted. The red one with noticeably greyish grille and rear panel. The concensus amongst the guys I trust in Japan is that the original colour was a slightly greyish tint of black with a dull finish, and that there was no quoted factory code, and no 'Touch Up' paint quoted in the manuals. If I were you I'd go with something that is NOT just a straight matt / satin black, and give it a slight tinge of bronze or dark grey. It's not quite metallic, but it seems to have some kind of metallic sheen to it in certain lights. I just use BMW 'Anthracite' or Vauxhall / GM 'Anthracite' and use a lot of matting agent in the paint. If you spray it quite 'dry' it seems to help. If it's any consolation, I don't think anyone out there would have the confidence to tell you that it was 'wrong' anyway. You can see GT-Rs in Japan all lined up, and they all look like different colours in the sunlight....

Flat or Semi-flat black seems to be the best match.

Where did you see it forsale? Link?

Thanks for the offer. Next time you'er there, would you please pick it up for me. "Easier" depends on your resources and fabrication skill. Both are limited in my case, besides I would like to have the stock parts installed eventually. I have a lot of wiring, fuel and other odds and end to finish and who knows how long that will take, so I can afford to wait a little on the throttle. By the way, I swapped in an L28ET, that is why I need the new linkage. The shop in Japan removed all the linkages when they installed the tripple webers on the old L20E. Chris

I am looking for the throttle linkage and bracket that mounts to the firewall for a 240K. I would like to get the throttle cable as well. The attached photo is what I am looking to buy. If anyone has one, please let me know. It will require posting to the United States (Zip Code 90503). Please let me know if you have one and price. Thanks, Chris

The problem is how the engine sits more forward on the cross member than in a Z. Think front sump in our K's versus the rear sump Z's. Shown is a picture of Kent's cross member. You can clearly see how much the engine mounts are forward of the cross member. On the picture of the header in the link you posted, the near vertical pipe (cylinder 3) will hit the cross member and the steering linkage behind it on our K's. I have also included a photo showing the 240Z engine, header and relation to the engine mount/crossmember. The header you linked to will just clear the engine mount on a Z. There is a pretty good chance these headers would fit (the ones pictured in the engine bay shot), but I have no personal experiance with this. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PEC02/15-6001 Chris

I think this is an artifact of the JDM market cars. I don't think the export market cars have this buzzer. I could be wrong. My GC111 has the same problem. I think it is part of the gauge cluster (Speedo). I have a gauge cluster from Austalia that I am swaping in. I will let you know once I do that if it takes care of the buzzer. Sorry I can't be more help, Chris

Updated post #19. The blue one in San Diego was Matt's. If it is now a GTR clone, I would like to see pictures. Any more info?

Bonezelite (Cop car paint) bought the 240K from Brian in Arizona, then sold it to someone else. If he is still on here maybe he can give details. Brian's (White) Kenmeri with the messed up VIN is in Utah, but trying to get to northern Califonia when the VIN gets cleared up. Guy who own a performance shop up there is trying to buy it. Wants to start making Kenmeri upgrade parts like disk brakes and such. Chris's (mine) (Silver) Kenmeri is safely in my garage, till I get the registartion sorted out. Tyrone has a Kenmeri he imported himself, safely in his garage. His posts started before he left Japan. Matt Big Hat's friend has (Blue) Kenmeri in San Diego. The only non-GTR clone, props for that. White and Green Kenmeri in San Diego, think it has a swapped SR20. Don't know current ownership. There is a real KPGC110 Kenmeri (Silver) in OC. Have seen pictures, but not in person. No clue as to who owns it. There is a second (Silver) Kenmeri at a shop in Orange County that was for sale a year or so back. Anybody know what happened to that one? Norcal has his (Silver) don't know where he bought it from, I think it was the one on Ebay in Washington State about 6 months ago. There is the (Blue) race car, non-legal, that shows up at JCCS sometimes. I think he is out of Los Angeles as well. This car was shipped back to Japan in 2007. That is all I know of for sure. Heard rumors that there is one in Tenessee. They seem to be breeding......

I remember the conversation. At the time the car had triple webers on it, no cat, and headers. No way it was ever going to pass smog. Since then, the car's VIN got flagged by the DMV for illegal smog. I tried to put all the smog equipment from a 280z onto the L20E motor, but the BAR agent failed it because the block was not a US spec block for that year 280z. Since it was off the road anyway, it started to build a L28 with the correct equipment to pass smog. Plans changed and it has sat in the garage, safe and sound, for the last few years. In about a week though I will get a refreshed L28ET from an '82 280ZX turbo and drop that into it with all the smog equipment intact. I have been working with the BAR agent to make sure everything will be nice and legal from the start. It has been a long process, but it will be nice to not have to look for Johnny Law over my shoulder. Besides, a classic Skyline doesn't blend into traffic very well. Chris

Still got it! And working on getting it past the California smog gods. Tyrone, responded to your PM.

LD28 Oil pan will also work. It is 1 quart larger than a stock pan. Has slightly smaller ears than the pan you showed.

1. do these appear to be correct for a c110? From what I can tell, yes they appear to be Kenmeri trailing arms. Can't tell if the caliper bracket is factory or after market. 2. Roughly does anyone have an idea of the weight of the calipers and or rear arms? I would expect the complete set up to be about 40 to 50 lbs, but that is just a guess. 3. Are there any company's that make rebuild kits for these calipers? Yes, plenty on Yahoo Japan and I think www.rubber-soul.net. They cost a fair bit, when you include shipping to the USA. As a note, I was looking at swapping out the rear drums on my Kenmeri for disks and I think I am going to use Wilwood parts with a little bit of custom machining I expect to spend around $1500 when it is all complete. What you choose for brakes, really depends on how original you want to keep it and what wheels you want to run. Chris

Kent, When you say that you are going to get it repainted, do you mean the original color? Do you have a paint code for the grill paint or are you just going to find something close? Let us know, Chris

Hi everyone, I was thinking of swapping a VG30DETT into my GC111, anybody have any information on this guys swap. The link no longer works. I have seen one video on YouTube, but it did not show the engine. What I am concerned with is having to modify the strut towers, because of the width of the VG30DETT. If anyone can help, or provide input that would be great. Don't really want this to turn into the classic put an RB in it thread, but if you have infromation to share I'll take it. For various reasons, my only choice of engine swaps are the VG30DETT or the VH out of a Q45. Chris

Kent, If you give do call, can you post the results here. I have been looking all over the globe for either bushings or a complete arm. I even called up a distributer in Australia myself. No luck, they said the arm was no longer manufactured. The one they did list was incorrectly marked for the 240K. See this thread for the saga I went through; http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31008 Right now planning to go the bearing/bushing/sleeve route. Or a completly custom arm, but that's big $$$$. Circuitlife, good luck in the search. I was thinking about calling these guys, as they might have a parts source directly from Japan. www.righthanddrivejapan.com I think you'er in the same business (if you'er the guy with the classic skyline shop in Salt Lake), so if you can't get parts, I don't know who can. Chris

If the 510 rear arms fit, do the springs, shocks and other parts interchange? Since I'm in the states, if the 510 suspensions are the same, it will make getting parts much easier. I don't know about the struts or tension rods. The previous owner of my car convered to 280z struts with coil overs, but there is not much adjustment on this system and I only have about an inch availble for suspension travel. I think the 280z struts might be longer. All the front end suspension parts are stock Nissan/Datsun on my car. I know some people on here have gone completely custom. My car is a '77 GC111, but I have found that all GC111, GC110 and 240K have the same suspensions. I think GC10 stuff might interchange as well from looking around the internet. Chris

I have a set of the JDM lens for the Skylines of the same vintage. The Backup lens color is reversed from the 240K (red ring and white center). PM me if you are interested. If you want 240K tails specifically, I'm sure someone here has them. Chris