ctcurnes

Thank you, everyone, for the help. I managed to work something out, so thanks again.

Yep, that was me. Car was brand new to me then. Changed a few things since then. Good to talk with you. Cheers, Chris

I conntacted the seller but he said that he would not ship to USA directly. Is there someone on this site that could help me out? I would cover all shipping costs and expenses. Please let me know. Thank you, Chris Curnes

Thanks for all the help. Ref station was required because it was an engine swap in to a different class of vehicle. I attached a picture of what the engine went into. Thanks for all the help.

I have attached a picture of 1982 280ZX manifold. What I think is the BCDD is highlight in the black square. Notice nothing is attached to the throttle body. Page EF & EC 117 of the 1982 280ZX FSM from Xenon's site http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html Show's the BCDD, just wondering if it is what I have the black box around in the attached picture. Thanks

Ref station! I was conducting an engine swap putting a 1977 280Z engine in different car. I was mix an matching some L28 parts that I had already laying around. The computer and fuel injection are from the 1977, the only part that is not is the intake manifold and AFM. That came off a 1982 280ZX. When I check the 1982 FSM there is a BCDD, it is integral with the intake manifold, I just need some picture to help convince myself I have everything and as back-up incase the ref starts asking questions. I don't want to get an 1982 ECU, as I would need an number of other parts, the wiring harness being the biggest issue. I also don't want a lambda sensor so I need to go with the 1977 set up. So far the ref has been real nice, but I am just trying to avoid any problems and having to go back multiple times. Stephen, if you could post a couple shots of your TB showing the BCDD and then maybe a general engine shot, showing the vacuum routing from the BPT valve forward. That would be great. I would greatly appreciate any help you can give. I was hoping you might chime in, your posts are alway very informative. I will take a picture of my manifold and try to post it. Thanks, Chris

Hello, I am fighting the California smog police and need some help with the emission equipment attached to the intake manifold. I am look for the differences between a 1977 280Z California manifold and a 1982 280ZX California manifold. Specifically I am looking for the differences in how the BCDD and throttle body attach and are connect to the vacuum lines. I think the 1977 has the BCDD on the throttle body and the 1982 has it on the intake? If anyone has pictures of how these two manifolds, installed, with the emission equipment attached that would help a lot. I have checked both FSM's but the pictures aren't very clear and the description leaves much to be desired. Thank in advance, Chris

They come up on Yahoo Japan from time to time. Haven't seen one in a while. I have two of them, but they are for the standard GT not the GTR. The GTR had black lettering and the rest of the badge was painted to match the tail panel. It's not too hard to strip the paint and repaint it black. That's what I did. Be careful when stripping the old paint, these were made out of plastic with a chrome plating. Alfadog has some good pictures of them, just do a search.

Josh, I am in the midst of a stroker build myself. They are much more time, labor and $ intensive than anyone would lead you to believe. Other than the cool factor, the turbo is really the way to go. Besides, if you get a stock 2.8L turbo, you can upgrade as time and money allow. Just as a reference point, I'm building a 3.0L stroker with a race head and big cams. I had to have custom machining done to the block to clear the increased stroke and have the pistons cut to prevent interferance with the valves. I have also had to tweak many small clearance issues and fitting here and there. Since you indicated you're not really mechanically inclined, I would assume you will have someone build the engine for you. In that case, go with a reputable shop that has experience with the Nissan/Datsun engine. Having the wrong shop build this custom of a motor is not a good idea. I would bet that for the $6K you want to spend you can get a rebuilt turbo motor that will run solid and still have some coin left over for additional mods like exhaust, intake, fuel system. Don't forget, you will need to up grade additional system to handle the increased power like your drive line, cooling, ignition and fuel pump just to name a few. This is just my two cents, but do your home work before jumping into something like this. If you still want to do it, great. Nothing sounds cooler than a big NA L6 camming like a big dog. Chris.

Don't know the offset, but next time I'm under the car I break out the measuring stick.

If the 555 idler arms are still availible, does anybody have a source. I would be willing to pay the costs of time, trouble and shipping. My only other option is a custom piece, but all the fabricators I have talked to want around $600 to fix the part. Of course that include real bearings, but I'd still rather find the correct part if I can. If someone could direct me towards a source that would be great. Chris

Posted these back when I got it. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=204262&postcount=5

I have a mechanic friend the is pretty familiar with the L-Jetronic EFI systems. You are correct in that you can't really tune the system by changing the computer map, but there are some adjustments to Idle, AFM, temp enrichment and fuel pressure that can be done to "tune" the system. The main reason I am doing this is to get the dang thing to pass smog here in California. The first guy that had it, smogged it illegally due to the tripple weber carbs he had on it as well as some other things. I'm just trying to save myself a ticket and I don't like the idea of continually have to illegally smog the car. The rules are what they are. Hopefully SEMA and the other groups will talk some sense into the politicians, but that may be dreaming.

I was just called a Skyline or sometimes Skyline 2000 GT. It depends on the source (got all that from the web). My vin shows it actaually as a GC111. I think the only change was to signify the emissions compliance and the introduction of fuel injection for 1976. I am sure there are much more knowledgable folks on this board that can tell me and you all about it. I have looked up some of the history, but all that research cuts into driving time, which is what I really want to do with the car. Chris

Cobbled something together from the 280Z manuals here in the states. Luckly, the car still had the L20E computer in it. Otherwise, I just have to tune it a little for the larger 280 injectors and AFM. Seems the JDM is the same wiring as the non-california US cars, just larger displacement motor. Chris

Sorry I couldn't help you out. Maybe somebody else on here can help you get a set.

PM sent

Would someone be able to post the wiring diagram for a 76 240K EFI engine. Being here in the states, I don't have access to any of the manuals for these cars. I am really interested in the pinout for the ECU and if there are any differences to a 280Z of the same year. Mine has Webers on it now, but I need to switch back to EFI for smog emissions (sometimes California sucks!) and I don't want to fry anything. I think the computers are pretty hard to come by, if they don't interchange with the Z's. Hope someone can help, Chris

Thanks for the link but that is the wrong part. I called roadsafe directly and talked to one of their tech people. Long story short, they list it as a 240K part but it will not fit. When they bought the company the builds the idler arm, the listing got screwed up. The P/N SX4221 will not fit a 240K. If you look closely the mount to the frame is all wrong and the direction of the arm is backwards. I am really glad they worked this out for me before I bought one, would actually send my business their way if I ever have a need. Real class act other than the incorrect listing, which they have since corrected in their latest catalog. Any way the hunt continues.... Anyone got one laying around? Chris

I'm looking for a new idler arm for my GC110. I found a part number from a company called OEM products (PAJA) (P/N SX4221) out of Australia, but haven't found anyone that sells one online. Mine is completely knackered, so new bushings won't work. Is there any interchange from another Datsun/Nissan? If anybody can help, please reply to this thread or PM me. Thanks, Chris

Didn't see other threads. Thought someone was asking a real question and others did as well. Guess in the future we should "do our homework" before responding to someone's post or the moderators could just delete it. Chris

The engineer in me says there is something fishy. I'd like to see some kind of analysis instead of just talk. Seems to me the HP extracted from the superchargers would be pretty large. You would have to work just as hard to pump the air out as you would to pump the air in. That doesn't leave much to push the wheel round and round. But what do I know, the Wright Brothers were just two bicycle mechanics from Ohio.. Chris.

Thanks for the reply. Sounds like the welding course I just finished will come in handy.

Question about your tarmac set up: Where did you source parts for items 1, 4 and 7. Did you buy these parts or did you fabricate them yourself. I just blew out my idler arm bushings and as long as I'm into the suspension, I might as well upgrade. An photos you might have would help alot as well. Also, if you have any patterns or pictures of the reinforments you did that would be great as well. I assume you did all the reinforcement yourself. Thanks for any help you can give me, Chris.

Looking for some help. The ignition switch in my GC110 does not power the accessories (i.e. radio) when the key is in the run position. If I wiggle it sometimes I can get it to make contact. I was wondering if the ignition switch was still availble from Nissan and/or if it interchanges with any other Nissan (Z car hopefully). My car is RHD if that makes a difference. Chris