BR-Z

I used the new PPG concepts single-stage paint on my 240z. It was different than the previous TYPE/ERA of PPG used by me and more importantly, the experienced painter I've been working with and learning from. Used PPG on the last car we painted, too. That's my personal, direct experience. His is approaching 2 decade working with PPG. I ran the Datsun paint code and had Mexican Orange made up for my 240z. It was not a perfect match to some faded parts on the car, but was indisinquishable in other areas. Funny part was, you didn't notice the fade on the original paint! Anyway, this paint is truly spectacular to work with. I agree with the "you get what you pay for". But paying for it is PAINFUL. Definitly towards $400 per gallon (including hardner and reducer). Whether or not it's "better enough" than cheaper stuff to justify the cost is difficult to say. If you can work with a PPG shop, the Omni paint line (by PPG) is very good. I've done a few other projects with it and it works very well. We both commented that it seems very much like the PPG, right down to the smell! (I've used a few other brands lately, and the smells are all distinctly different! For what it's worth!

Standard NPT pipe plugs work well. The hex-head units pictured above would provide more "purchase" than the allen-head plugs I put in, but I like them because they fit in flush. As for removal, taking the carbs and intake off is best, if not absolutely necessary. At some point you'll really want the exhaust manifold out where you can really work with it. If you are willing to sacrifice the little air injection tubes, you can snip them close to the nuts and have box end wrenches and 6-point sockets at your disposal. Soak with penetrant oil, and be patient. Soak again, and even be willing to come back another day. A (brake) flare wrench might do the job if you wanted to get the whole thing out intact, but you'll need some luck. I doubt an open end would do it. There's always vice-grips as a last result.

Professional paint (meaning catalyzed paint that is typically prepared with some ratio of paint: reducer: hardener can have a "flattening agent" added to it. The amount of flattening agent determines the "percent gloss". A painter experience with hot rods is likely have access to the "percent gloss" values for certain cars (I'm thinking of similar panels on some muscle cars). I forget the exact values (and it wouldn't matter because it was specific to the PPG paint I used) but I made up a close match for the factory gray and sprayed it with, I think, 60% gloss. It turned out GREAT! (this is where I'd post a pic if I had one handy). With PPG, the trick was to spray it in ONE heavy coat, and the flatenning occurs as the paint flashes out. This is certainly counter to "rattle can wisedom" of fewer, lighter coats, but I can tell you that it is definitely the case. I know this because I tried it both ways, and the single coat worked much better. Also, when spraying my struts with PPG black, I tried to emulate the factory sheen, which to me seems not full gloss. I added flattening agent then, too, but the parts REQUIRED multiply coats for proper coverage - and they came out super glossy despite the flatening agent. Too much information? -OK - but +1 more vote for "factory charcoal"

Just reasearched this myself, so I can share my thoughts. Nothing much new here, though. The Falken ZE- 912's were recently well-reviewed in Grassroots motorsports. I agree with Arne on the Toyo's if they meet your budget. The Falkens would be a less expensive tire, and they come 205/55/15 or 225/50/15, both of which should fit well. Many folks run 225's without rubbing trouble, but a few have reported a bit of rubbing, so it depends on the exact tire, your car, wheel offset, camber settings, etc. It seems like 225/50's and 205/60's are the most popular (street) sizes folks run. The 205/60's will be taller (larger diameter). 205/55's are a more rare size, but lately there seem to be quite a few tire options. It looks like you've got 15x7 Panasports pictured there (or perhaps Rota RB's?). The Panasports are usually 0 degree, and the Rota's a very close, +4mm ET I believe), so any of the three tire options should work for you (with the 225's could be tight - caveat)

-Done! Piece of cake, following John's method, with one caveat: You may need to unbolt/loosen/remove your exhaust to allow the front diff crossmember to drop free - if your exhaust runs up tightly like mine does (nice for ground clearance, but adds extras steps for a procedure like this)

Thanks John - this was exactly what I was needing! I appreciate you taking the time to help me out. Back under the car I go!

Please pardon the (probably) basic question, but I put my 73z up on Jack Stands yesteray for a "go through and clean up" project on the rear end, and I'm planning on swapping in a lower geared (numerically higher) differential. I pulled the wheels, and half-shafts, and as I look at it, it's not clear what the best procedure is for getting the diff out. I could unbolt the brackets for the control arms, and the whole front differential bracket, of course, and this would give PLENTY of room, but I wondered what folks have learned is the best way. Racers? Ye who have swapped these out on a track-by-track basis? Any pointers would be greatly appreciated. ('73 240, stock R180 diff)

I've personally seen this car, too. This was probably a few years ago before I had a Z and was fooling with my 510 - Mark sold me some 510 race parts then. This Z is sweet! a very nice, and if memory serves, largely original car. It was coddled in a garage cleaner than a living room! You've done good! -Josh

Continue the seach. Like many in this thread, I searched for a long time before I found a candidate that fit my need/budget requirements. It had a nearly perfect body, and "delightfully neglected" mechanicals. The "delightfully neglected" mechanicals meant that there were a lot of problems to fix, but no "poor fixes" to fix! The strut inserts, for example, were so worn out that there was about a 1/8 deep gouge worn in the side of the chrome strut shaft where it had been developed a lot of play and was grinding itself away on the gland nut. It wasn't cheap, easy, or quick to get new strut inserts, new ball joints, new tie rod ends, and put all new bushings in the suspension, but now it's all copescetic. Having previously worked on a car that needed a lot of bodywork, I was CERTAIN I didn't want to do that again when I got this z. That previous project was rewarding and successful, and it was a great learning experience, but JUST LIKE EVERYONE ALWAYS SAYS! - it is not a time-efficient or cost-effective approach. No matter what car you get, you'll likely need to spend some time sorting it out (this naturally excludes the big-dollar perfect restorations). And you almost certainly want to 'customize' the car with your preferences, so don't forget to buget for that. Good cars are out there. They're not dirt cheap anymore, but is sounds like you have a very realistic budget in mind -J

I got the plug from Dave here, did the zx internally regulated alternator swap on my 240z, Easy as pie. Dave is great to work with and a resource we're luck to have. I also use a zx distributor (electronic ignition). Then I put the "guts" from a zx tachometer into the case and bezel from the original (240z) tachometer, wired the back so the plug would work (it's pretty obvious what you need to do when you look at the two) and it works like a charm. Pertronix, MSD, or other option work well, but I thought this was the "simplest" all-Nissan way to go with electronic ignition and have a reliable tachomter, and leave/use much of the OE harness. Once the parts were sourced, it was easy and performs great. Good luck with the swap - go for it!

I had a crappy old conversion too. I just did as above - got a used roundtop set of SU's from a member here. Watched the Z-therapy SU video and fiddled just like they tell you to on the video, bolted them on and THEY WORK GREAT! Of course it depends on the condition of the used set you get... The Z-therapy "reman" service is yet another step up in sweetness, but my rationale was, try the carbs "as is" first - and I'm very happy with the performance. Maybe I'll do the Z-therapy service later. If you've got the $$ and want to fool with it just once, I'm convinced you wouldn't regret it - look at all the happy customers' testimonials here! Either way, one thing's for sure, SU's are good carbs for this car!

Nice work! FYI 3M Fineline tape (typically used for masking when doing multi-colored jobs) is a vinyl-like substance that is very flexible and "rounds the corner" without bunching* *-i takes a little stretching and practice to get it around the scallops, but it will work. I did this with a few hubcaps as well, and found it MUCH easier than trimming the green "paper" masking tape.

It was the first year I was able to bring a Z car to the Walter Mitty at Road Atlanta this year - and I had a great time. I met a bunch of guys from the Georgia Z car club with many Z's and a WEALTH of knowlege! I'm not from Georgia but they invited me to park my car with their Z's. I got some great tips on improving my car, and good feedback on the work I'd done thus far (I just got the engine in last week and the SU retrofit done a few days before the event). It was great to see a bunch of other Z's. Thanks to these guys for their hospitality - it's great to be "welcomed into a Z family". And for anyone who's been on the fence about it... YES go to the Mitty if you can. You won't need to wait long to see Z's racing at the Mitty - and there's just about eveything else you can think of.. GTP cars, Historic stock cars, lots of vintage racers, and even a few CanAm monsters. The Grassroots motorsports and Classic motorsports crew is there, and there are vendors galore. Something for everyone.

Dave, you're the wiring guru. Thanks for your work on this. I a '73 with the unique combo switch. Would the wiring diagram you supplied above be applicable to my car - (my wiper motor plug on firewall).

Wow! after seeing the sweet, clean NOS bits in the engine bay, the new suspension, brakes and wheels, and the refreshed electric blue interior, it'll be "ICING ON THE CAKE" to see your see again with a nice coat of 904 white. Take me for a ride when you get it back!!!

The VB/Black dragon taillight gaskets fit well and are very reasonably priced. The front door gaskets (the formed piece that fits above the upper hinge and is secured with 3 press-in buttons) also fits well, and seeing as it's a fairly complex-shaped piece, I'd trust most items from them.

-just got my fumes cured, too! They weren't bad, but annoying, for sure. I'd done the hatch seal, taillight seals, and assured excellent seals around the tank/overflow hoses, double checked all other possible openings under and into the car, and ALL THAT HELPED, but the biggest difference was with a new exhaust, extending WELL beyond the back of the bumper. I'd asked the exhaust shop to do a 2.5 inch extension (following Beandip's advice) but they made about a 7-inch extension. The maiden drive with the new exhaust was GLORIOUSLY fume-free. What a nice thing! To be fair, the exhaust had a tiny leak mid-pipe that could well have been a contributor, but it's seeming like the longer tip is the key. HOWEVER! - I just couldn't stand the aesthetics of the huge extension - it looked too much like VW beetle Stinger! So I'm in the process of shortening it, incrementally. If I just left well enough alone, then, well,.... I wouldn't be a serial Datsun owner! If I make it too short and start getting fumes again, I will post!!!! '73 240z PPG Concepts single-stage #918 Mexican Orange

Two phillips heads and it'd fit in an envelope, what do you say? PM if you got it available/for sale -J

Member Art had some SU's up for sale and I was the lucky one to get them. Just letting all know here how NICE it is to receive an item, in a timely manner, receive communication from the seller about it being sent, and have the item be EXACTLY AS Described. I haven't had time to run these yet, but it is a very nice, clean, complete set. THANKS ART!

I have one in very nice condition, from a California 73. PM if interested

Libre's were offered in the 14 x 5.5 (as several have mentioned above) and were (are) run on Datsun roadsters as well as z's. There is a 7" wide version of the Libre that is ONLY offered in the 13" diameter. These 13x 7's are probably most famous for being run on the 70-73 trans-am era Datsun 510's, particularly the BRE car driven by John Morton. The 13x7's won't fit 240z fronts, as they contact the backing plate. They do fit the rear of a 240z (with stock drums).