Zvoiture

>>>>lines from Summit Racing<<<< What size ends did you order? And did they fit on the stock bulkhead adaptors? steve

>>>>and won't require adapters.<<<< The adaptors replace the adaptor that is already in there--you know the thing with the little notches that take the C-clips locking it to the strut tab and the hub tab? It is not an additional piece. It's just I have never figured out the size of the male flare side of the stock adaptor--or found a hose pre-made that fits on it. the last set I saw from MSA had new Earl's adaptors at each end too, but they may have worked that out to fit the Nissan pieces. The stock piece is not 3 or 4 AN. It is something weird. steve

Are the MSA hoses still 12"F and 9"R? I inherited a set on a car and found them--as mentioned--a bit short and the PO had kinked a couple. The price at MSA is definitely the best. What is it, $65? That is a deal. I have been 'building my own sets' from Porterfield's catalogue and paying quite a bit more. I don't know the quality comparison to Earl's, but they seem pretty well put together. Teflon lined SS hoses by RXI or TXI or something like that. I get the 15" -4X-4 straight premade hoses for $11-something each and then you need two -4AN male to 10X1.0mmFIF adaptors for each corner at about $3 each, so do the math. With shipping and change I think it is in the $75+ range. Are the MSA ones -3 or -4 AN? steve

And maybe we should put this one in our T&A section. My kind of boots. My kind of hair. My kind of jacket. My kind of...um...everything else. But the PANTS!!! Look out Bob Hope!

50's? On a street car? Beautiful though. Nice bunch of wheels at that show. This is for ME, baby, YEAH! steve

I think all of them say E30 on them. steve

Forgive the ignorant question, but I am shopping for regulator/pump/filter for my new engine and Mikunis and am a bit confused how carbs work. On my FI motor, it is: Tank--Pump--Filter--Rail (injectors)--Regulator--return to tank. So, as I understand it, the system is 'pressured up' and any excess pressure/unused fuel is vented off throught he regulator back to the tank. Now on a carb system, the regulator has to be before the carb, right? The pump makes somewhere between 7 and 15 and the carbs only need 3-3.5, so regulation has to come BEFORE the carbs, right? So you need a pump that even though you are using a large volume (high RPM) it can keep the pressure up at the same 3-3.5. Is there a return out of the regulator back to the tank? Or does the pump just run staticly 'against' the regulator even when nothing is flowing (electric pump--on all the time). All of the regulators I am looking at have at least two output ports. Do you just cap one or does one become a return? If you bought a regulator with three outputs, could one go to each carb? So it is Tank--(filter here?)--Pump--(or here?)--Regulator--Rail(carbs)--? steve

Shippin is actually not too bad on wheels...go to a box store and get two 16X16X16 boxes for about $10 and the shipping is only about $40. steve

Thanks for al the helpful conversation, but, again, perhaps I should have started a different thread, as I think we are having two different conversations. I am preparing to wire a RACE CAR. There is no stalk controls, no key, only switches in a fabricated dash. Painless claims (although I have never held one in my hands) to have all the wiring and relays and fuse panels for what I need to power necessary controls. I am not looking to replicate any existing wiring--the car has none. The only tie-in to existing Z items that I forsee is the tailights and headlights (if I decide to install them--the headlights, that is). So I BELIEVE the Painless 8 or 12 circuit GENERIC RACE CAR HARNESS (Summit PRF-50001 or 2) will be adequate. All I need is: Engine power/ignition (switch & starter button) Brakes Electric fuel pump (or two) Gauges (Tach is fed by ignition control box but I assume it has a power lead, H2o temp is mechanical, Oil pressure and temp is mechanical, brake bias is mechanical, perhaps a speedo, voltage, ...um...what am I forgetting?) Electric fan Am I forgetting something? I am assuming I can figure out how to wire in the MSD/HI-6 and I don't know what the allowances are in this kit are for battery/starter/power supply--but relocating the battery to the rear deck will require modification/tie-in somewhere (and a shut-off ****)anyway. Then there is just a bunch of optional street-legal stuff that all are provided circuits for in the Painless unit: Headlights Tailights Wipers Horn Dome(no) Emergency flashers(no) Electric water pump Trans brake (no) Radio (no) See? Painless!!! NOT! The thing is, I am a licensed electrician, but automotive is Greek to me. Someone who knows how to do this need their house wired? steve

I am looking seriously at the Painless 12-circuit 'pro' harness for my race car. Sounds pretty ...um...painless. I'm guessing it comes with everything but switches and possibly end connectors. For $289, sounds pretty hard to beat. I really only need the 8-circuit, but this car IS current on its registration, and if anyone ever wanted turn signals and such, it would be easy... not really looking forward to this part of the project. I have NO CLUE what I am doing. steve

Man, those are gorgeous. Just the way I like my wheel--not too flashy--simple and straightforward. But they're too small! They are ALWAYS too small! Why doesn't anyone ever sell 16X10's? Looks like it will be Diamond's for me. steve

They arrived yesterday!!!! Now I just need something to bolt them to.... steve

From correspondents in Tokyo 01jan04 TAKASHI Ishihara, a former president of Nissan Motor Co. who helped turn the Japanese carmaker into a global player, has died of heart failure, his family said today. He was 91. Ishihara died yesterday morning at a Tokyo hospital, said his son, Yoshiharu. No date had yet been set for a funeral. Ishihara launched an aggressive export strategy after being appointed head of Nissan's export operations in 1957 - a time when Japanese products were viewed as cheap and low-quality. Seven years later, Nissan became the first Japanese automaker to rank among the top 10 in US car imports. Ishihara stood at Nissan's helm from 1977 to 1985 and helped establish the company's first plants overseas, in countries including the United States and Britain. It was a move toward multinational operations that has been followed by Japan's major manufacturers. He stepped down in 1985 to become chairman as Nissan began to struggle through a difficult period of overseas losses and declines in its domestic market share. Ishihara, born on March 3, 1912, is survived by two children and his wife, Shizuko.

You can't rope me into that, sorry! I can't make any promises on anything as subjective as used springs. I have seen cars ride very differently and protray clearly different aesthetics with supposedly 'same' springs. All these came off lowered 240's that came through my garage (all except the black, new ones). All were 1-2" lowered and looked proportionate. I honestly don't know what the stock spring rate is on a 240, perhaps someone can post it here for reference. I personally would not use the 90's or 120's, but that is merely a personal preference. I like a stiff ride. I think the gold 175's on the front and either the black 150's or yellow 130's on rear would make a great combo. But, the blacks or blues would work well in front also. Hope this helps. steve

Gotta clean some of this stuff out. All are 'lowering' springs. None are cut. Install front or rear at your own discretion. Free length is measured across longest portion. Weights checked with digital scale and drill press. I am giving you all the info I know on these. All are sets of TWO: 11" Black, Brand new in bags, 150# 12" Yellow powder coated, used, 130# 11" Gold, Used, Labeled: "Suspension Techniques, FRONT" 175# 11 1/4" Blue, Used, These were on rear of car with Golds above, 120# 11" Grey, Used, 90# First three pairs: $40 each pair Last two pairs: $30 each pair ZVOITURE@aol.com steve

6 stock-sized flattop pistons out of an F54/P79 combo. Complete with used rings and wristpins. $60 shipped anywhere in US. ZVOITURE@aol.com steve

Ahhhh...I see. All kinds of stuff in there I wanted to read. Seems it has been culling out quite a few--but not all--of the 240z and Z-Home list messages too. Thanks. steve

Rusty, can you elaborate on the photo of the fuel tank you recently uploaded? You also list the car as having a "cell". I am very curious what you have done to the tank. If I have missed a conversation that has already transpired, just point me there... steve77

Yup, that fixed it. thanks steve

OK, I think I may have found the problem. Yes, there is a folder for automatically deleted spam (never knew it was there!). I is FULL of messages from webmaster@classiczcars. I also found a list of 'troublesome' sources in my spam preferences folder and classiczcars.com made the list! Let's see if this works... steve77

Since upgrading to 9.0 (I held out as long as I could because 8.0 is so much better, but they basically forced me finally) I no longer get notifications of replys to threads here. I know it is probably something really stupid, but I have checked all my 'Option' settings here and they are right/the same as always. I have gone through my AOL 'Preferences/settings' area and nothing jumps out at me. 9.0 has all kinds of 'wonderful' new spam filters and layers of 'protection' to keep the real world away from us. I can't help but think it is some of this filtering that is keeping notification out. I have set my 'security' level very low and even manually set classiczcars.com as a 'trusted' source. Can anyone clue me in? It's not the end of the world if I can't get it back, but it's kinda cool. steve77

That's why there is a passenger seat..... steve77