Zvoiture

I think all of them say E30 on them. steve

Forgive the ignorant question, but I am shopping for regulator/pump/filter for my new engine and Mikunis and am a bit confused how carbs work. On my FI motor, it is: Tank--Pump--Filter--Rail (injectors)--Regulator--return to tank. So, as I understand it, the system is 'pressured up' and any excess pressure/unused fuel is vented off throught he regulator back to the tank. Now on a carb system, the regulator has to be before the carb, right? The pump makes somewhere between 7 and 15 and the carbs only need 3-3.5, so regulation has to come BEFORE the carbs, right? So you need a pump that even though you are using a large volume (high RPM) it can keep the pressure up at the same 3-3.5. Is there a return out of the regulator back to the tank? Or does the pump just run staticly 'against' the regulator even when nothing is flowing (electric pump--on all the time). All of the regulators I am looking at have at least two output ports. Do you just cap one or does one become a return? If you bought a regulator with three outputs, could one go to each carb? So it is Tank--(filter here?)--Pump--(or here?)--Regulator--Rail(carbs)--? steve

Shippin is actually not too bad on wheels...go to a box store and get two 16X16X16 boxes for about $10 and the shipping is only about $40. steve

Thanks for al the helpful conversation, but, again, perhaps I should have started a different thread, as I think we are having two different conversations. I am preparing to wire a RACE CAR. There is no stalk controls, no key, only switches in a fabricated dash. Painless claims (although I have never held one in my hands) to have all the wiring and relays and fuse panels for what I need to power necessary controls. I am not looking to replicate any existing wiring--the car has none. The only tie-in to existing Z items that I forsee is the tailights and headlights (if I decide to install them--the headlights, that is). So I BELIEVE the Painless 8 or 12 circuit GENERIC RACE CAR HARNESS (Summit PRF-50001 or 2) will be adequate. All I need is: Engine power/ignition (switch & starter button) Brakes Electric fuel pump (or two) Gauges (Tach is fed by ignition control box but I assume it has a power lead, H2o temp is mechanical, Oil pressure and temp is mechanical, brake bias is mechanical, perhaps a speedo, voltage, ...um...what am I forgetting?) Electric fan Am I forgetting something? I am assuming I can figure out how to wire in the MSD/HI-6 and I don't know what the allowances are in this kit are for battery/starter/power supply--but relocating the battery to the rear deck will require modification/tie-in somewhere (and a shut-off ****)anyway. Then there is just a bunch of optional street-legal stuff that all are provided circuits for in the Painless unit: Headlights Tailights Wipers Horn Dome(no) Emergency flashers(no) Electric water pump Trans brake (no) Radio (no) See? Painless!!! NOT! The thing is, I am a licensed electrician, but automotive is Greek to me. Someone who knows how to do this need their house wired? steve

I am looking seriously at the Painless 12-circuit 'pro' harness for my race car. Sounds pretty ...um...painless. I'm guessing it comes with everything but switches and possibly end connectors. For $289, sounds pretty hard to beat. I really only need the 8-circuit, but this car IS current on its registration, and if anyone ever wanted turn signals and such, it would be easy... not really looking forward to this part of the project. I have NO CLUE what I am doing. steve

Man, those are gorgeous. Just the way I like my wheel--not too flashy--simple and straightforward. But they're too small! They are ALWAYS too small! Why doesn't anyone ever sell 16X10's? Looks like it will be Diamond's for me. steve

They arrived yesterday!!!! Now I just need something to bolt them to.... steve

You can't rope me into that, sorry! I can't make any promises on anything as subjective as used springs. I have seen cars ride very differently and protray clearly different aesthetics with supposedly 'same' springs. All these came off lowered 240's that came through my garage (all except the black, new ones). All were 1-2" lowered and looked proportionate. I honestly don't know what the stock spring rate is on a 240, perhaps someone can post it here for reference. I personally would not use the 90's or 120's, but that is merely a personal preference. I like a stiff ride. I think the gold 175's on the front and either the black 150's or yellow 130's on rear would make a great combo. But, the blacks or blues would work well in front also. Hope this helps. steve

Gotta clean some of this stuff out. All are 'lowering' springs. None are cut. Install front or rear at your own discretion. Free length is measured across longest portion. Weights checked with digital scale and drill press. I am giving you all the info I know on these. All are sets of TWO: 11" Black, Brand new in bags, 150# 12" Yellow powder coated, used, 130# 11" Gold, Used, Labeled: "Suspension Techniques, FRONT" 175# 11 1/4" Blue, Used, These were on rear of car with Golds above, 120# 11" Grey, Used, 90# First three pairs: $40 each pair Last two pairs: $30 each pair ZVOITURE@aol.com steve

6 stock-sized flattop pistons out of an F54/P79 combo. Complete with used rings and wristpins. $60 shipped anywhere in US. ZVOITURE@aol.com steve

Rusty, can you elaborate on the photo of the fuel tank you recently uploaded? You also list the car as having a "cell". I am very curious what you have done to the tank. If I have missed a conversation that has already transpired, just point me there... steve77

That's why there is a passenger seat..... steve77

Hello, JZ! ....Yeah that's nice, but you can forget dings. I have seen several Cobras like this. steve77

And another one...from GRM--errrrrr--Keith. 1975 DATSUN 280Z. HSR, SVRA, SCCA, GTU/GT2 vintage race car. Full tube chassis, fiberglass body. L28, 300+ HP, triple Mikunis, Billet crank, Carrillo rods, Cosworth pistons. Houseman 5-speed Comp box. Extensive spares, fully sorted and proven reliable. Multiple winner and record holder. Wickedly Fast. $28,500 obo (586) 781-6409, Paul99RT@wowway.com (MI) 04-04

Don't forget Richard Pilfold out in this area. He is one amazing BSP-Z driver. Absolutely makes it look effortless.

Check this out: MM steve77

Man, what I wouldn't give to just drop all four corners off! Coil-overs AND fibreglas!!! He might notice, though!! steve77

I get the distinct impression a couple of you think I should keep the car despite it not having a logbook. That is not an option. Unfortunately, keeping it or not is not one of my choices. I can not opt to keep the car and forego the logbook! I can't keep the car! The person who sold it to me has welched on the deal and unless I want to get an attorney involved and cause all kinds of ugliness and personal expenditure, he is coming to pick it up on Monday. Still shopping... steve77

Oh yes! It was a wonderful price! If I could keep the car, I wouldn't quibble too much about the log book. steve77

And now, my bestus Z friends, in the 'If it's too good to be true, it probably is' category.....As many of you know, I have been shopping for a race car for a bit--something a bit more serious than my street projects. I have shopped through quite a few vehicles in various stages of sorting--including several from these forums. Price really wasn't an issue, as quality of preparation speaks for itself. I shopped through everything from practically free cars to $15,000 tube-frame GT2 cars and everything in between. A couple weeks ago, a GT2 tub popped up on the list for a great price. I called the guy immediately and--again as many of you know--I bought it. It had all the qualities I was looking for: Proven race record, tech history, 'overboard' cage, well-worked suspension, minimal rust..... I drove 700 miles each way for it this past weekend. It was everything I expected. A bit more rust than advertised, but that is to be expected. And dealing with the PO was also very refreshing. I buy a lot of $100 Z's and ZX's for stripping and the individuals I purchase these type of cars from often take a bit of 'flexibility'--if you know what I mean. This was so much different: Nice mature gentleman, lives in a decent house, obviously knows a bit about racing and Z's, several post-graduate degrees--you get the picture. I remember thinking to myself how nice it was to be dealing with someone with clear objectives. Here is where things head South. If you want to go to bed with a nice smile on your face, log out now. When I pick up the car, the PO is unable to produce the log book. Hmmm. Suddenly the car's value plummets about 50%. Seems the now-previous-previous-owner has it. He will mail it to me. Right on. Tuesday the phone rings. PO wants the car back. "Am I going to be (that direction) anytime soon?" Seems he promised to sell it back to the PPO (yes the guy with the log book) and PPO is a bit miffed. "Gonna report it stolen to the SCCA." (Yes, Keith, this is the guy I e-mailed you about). Gotta love this community! steve77

Looks like love only exists in So Cal......hehe steve

Most (I'll probably get in trouble for that blanket statement) of the Z navigators out there in soloII have gone the FP route--including Mr. Holt. It's not that the C4s and Tigers can't be beat, I think--and part of this is from personal exploration--once you start modifying your Z, it is REALLY HARD to keep it in BSP. There are some serious things the Z needs to be competitive that BSP doesn't allow. steve(last place BSP [NASA] this year)77