Zvoiture

Joe...met you Sunday at Marina-X. Get ahold of Mark Davey and get something going up there. steve77

The set is about $17 from the 'ship. Like night and day! steve77

Yeah, if the both had spacers, I would not be so concerned, but one with and one without???? I think they should be the same. steve77

Ordered a set Tokico non-adjustables for the car I am building. Got them today from the same company I ordered the last set from (autocarparts.com). The fronts are fine. It is the rears that have me concerned. Both boxes say '3106', but the contents are different. One is the standard 3016 cartridge. First of all, it has a new sticker on it that says '3016'. It is a front--with an extension. The cartridge body is about 2" shorter and it has a piece of pipe pressed onto the lower seat to make up the difference. So, resting on the ground, both cartridge BODIES are exactly the same length. But, at full extension, the rod on the altered strut is 3/4 of an inch longer. Now, I know cartridges technically have no 'spring rate'. But I have to push down on this thing with, say 50 or 75 lbs of force to get it down to the same length as the other strut, and wouldn't that translate into the suspension? And what about the valving? Why would Tokico add an extension and relabel something? Has anyone ordered Tokico Non's and seen this modification to the 3016 strut cartridge? Has anyone ever ordered a strut from ANYONE and seen the factory modify a different model to fit your length? Should I use these two different struts in the same front end? I can't help but believe it will make a difference from right to left. steve77

Hey Ozzy...too bad they didn't put TWO notches in the crossmember, heh? steve77

Yes, this gets beat to death, and to what end? It seems I read several posts a month between Z-home and 240.org concerning this topic. The solution is quite simple. A well-running, properly tuned, clean, happy, well-lubricated, free-breathing L motor with an adequate cooling system DOES NOT OVERHEAT. Period. Yes, that means even in traffic. Go make your motor happy. Your cooling problems will disappear. steve77

L28 with K&N cold intake (that makes a difference) MSA 6-2 with 2-1 collector. 2.25" straight-as-a-chalkline to a fast left-right behind the diffy. Bosal Stainless Steel straight-thru with double tips It has an unbelievable rumble at idle which grows to a unhealthy resonance at 2000-3000 and turns into a F1 whine at 4+. I'm not going to say it sounds like a V-8 (although many have commented and queried to that end). V-8's sound like $^!#. A straight 6 makes the most heavenly music in the world. There is really nothing that compares. Very loud, yes. But not at all ricer-loud or junk-yard-dog loud. A very...um....polished loud. European loud. Heavenly loud. My ears ring after driving an hour loud. The neighbors smile loud (and I live in a community of rich old-farts with Mercedes'). Every pedestrian on the block turns their head loud. Every ricer I pass gives me the thumbs up loud. People gathered around the grid at autocross cover their ears loud. Wonderful loud. steve77

850iL 930 turbo dropnose 633CSi 911RS Pantera with a Windsor

My 77 (that's a 280 here in the states) weighs 2460 with me and a tank of gas. It IS possible to lose weight off a 280 without sacrificing comfort. My car has a full interior, but I removed everything possible. Bumpers, AC, heater core, wiper stuff, spare tire, stereo, speakers. The good thing is, they are considerably stiffer than a 240 and would probably hold up better in an accident. I think a 280 could easily get down to 2200, but you would have to strip the interior. steve77

Don't we have 'Introduce yoursef to the Class' for this? Just turned 36, live on the coast halfway between LA and SF...General Contractor...on wife #2...two daughters 9 and 3...1 doggie and 1 kitty, a 77 weekend driver/autocross car and a 73 stripped and being put back together a little to slowly with a 81 drivetrain as a serious auto-crosser. Now we are going into wine season (my other hobby), so the poor Z won't get touched until October. steve77

Look out John! There's a De Tomaso on your nose!!! And check out teh license plate on the Trooper. Weird. The guy on the left is just a ZONC member preparing a shirt for signing by John. The switch in the console is one of those lovelies installed by the PO to control foglights or power antennae or electric fan or passenger ejection system or traction control or turbo boost or alien deterrent system or........ I have three, actually--another toggle directly below and a fairly obvious 'kill' switch over......well, nevermind. It's in the first or second place you would look, let's put it that way. In the process of re-upholstering and refinshing the interior panels, all extra wiring was removed and cleaned up. The block-out panel for the radio is actually made from white Formica. I had a black one in there originally and it really disappeared. Most peope didn't even notice I did not have a stereo. But then I started hanging out with Mr. K and John Morton.........................hehehe. steve77

Oh...here's another one... steve77

OK, mull, I feel so bad about being hard on your content I felt I needed to show you what REAL 'sports car' content looks like. Here you go, but cover your ears at the end. 'supposed' sports car VS. sports car steve77

Oh...and about the cost thing.....Yes, a decent muffler shop will fabricate you an awsome exhaust for 100-150$. Of course, that is welded and with those cool urethane mounts welded here and there. Home-made system? Let's do some word-association: Clamps Swages Pacesetter disposal of existing system existing mounts rust jackstands steve77

Zedguy is right. A true twice-pipes system will indeed eliminate the Y-pipe and use the double outlet (6-2) header. 'Standard' (1 3/4 or 1 7/8) pipe is more than adequate for this setup. And...bullet mufflers WILL wear out. How soon is debatable. Does anyone make a double inlet/double outlet muffler? And, just in case anyone is tempted, a TRUE twice-pipes system (ala works cars)--with three cylinders dumping into a pipe running straight out to the rear center of the car--IS SO UNTRUCKINGUNBELIEVABLEMINDNUMBING LOUD your teeth hurt. Don't try it--unless you trailer your car. steve77(well over 90 dBa)

OK, you asked. I managed to sit through four of these before practically putting a gun in my mouth. The production value is definitely better than most but they contain absolutely nothing of interest to me. There are plenty of places on the web to watch 'American Muscle' drag race or to admire the handiwork of the 'import touring/tuning' scene. This is a 'sports car' site. Neither of those two catagories involve 'sports cars'. Oh, wait... I think I saw a Viper in one. I guess that's supposed to be a sports car. This is not a flame. I am an old fart. Like I said, the production is great! I don't speak for everyone, but the content was B--O--R--I--N--G............ Good job. steve77

I am using a 1-1/2" stiff and a propane torch. Forget the spreader, it isn't hot enough (fast enough). Just use a reagular plumbing tip on pretty high. Youjust hit a spot for a couple seconds, then stick the putty knife in and start moving the torch and knife in the same direction with the end of the knife about 1 inch behind the flame. You will figure out real quick how fast you can go. If you go too fast obviously the undercoating won't be softened and the knife will just stop. If you go too slow, the undercoating reduces to a boiling, bubbling, burning gummy muss that sticks to the knife. If you just move along briskly, (it takes about 1 second to go a foot), the stuff is soft, but still solid and firm and just drops off the knife. Works excellent, and the flame scenario is quite minimal. Ventilate your area though. A wider knife won't work as well. This method also works great for Bondo removal. steve77

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Mark Davey is the ZONC Santa Cruz area coordinator. E-mail him at DAVEYMSJ@aol.com Lots of Z's up there. Steve McConnell, Director Cntral Coast Z Car Club

Less than a week away and I just wanted to MAKE SURE there wasn't a SINGLE Z owner in California out of the loop on this. There will be a Z parking corral at the 30th annual Rolex Monterey Historic Automobile Races THIS Saturday. We sold the minimum passes to gain the corral and the management was generous enough to not only give us a really excellent corral area, but also give us 20 MORE PASSES!!! Let me put this another way: IF YOU ATTEND THE MONTEREY HISTORICS, WE WILL GIVE YOU A FREE PASS TO PARK RIGHT UP FRONT IN THE ACTION. Outside turn 2 to be exact. You must drive a Z, Roadster, or 510 to the event on Saturday to be eligible. No other type of vehicle will be allowed in the Z corral. If you already have tickets, e-mail me NOW to get your corral parking passes. (ZVOITURE@aol.com). If you are thinking about it, go to WWW.LAGUNA-SECA.COM and order your ticket and then e-mail me for your free parking passes. The corral parking passes are free if you hold a general admission ticket for Saturday. Don't get stuck out in a pasture riding the shuttle in to the race. Drive right through the gates and park up with the Jaguars and the Cobras. Anyone who has read this far deserves to know this: John Morton will be at the race driving one of the prototype Cobras and a Lotus. He has promised to visit the Z corral. Ya wanna meet John Morton? Better get your corral passes! Also there is a dinner at the San Juan Bautista Inn Saturday evening at which John Morton will be the guest of honor. Spaces are still available for the dinner also. Remember: The corral is on Saturday, August 16th only. Steve McConnell, Director Central Coast Z Car Club

...because there just aren't enough bad stereotypes already about men and cars. steve77

It was a great show, as usual... steve77

It doesn't match any of the numbers in my fairly current Nissan Motorsports cattledog. (Part Name) DIFF ASSY LSD (Part No.) 38420-RS205 Most of the LSD assy's in the book carry the 38420-RS part, but nothing matches the 205. The box says "Nismo Selective LSD". Anyone? steve77