Zvoiture

"Profanity is a shallow mind trying desperately to express itself." steve(really %@#&ing shallow)77

What's your favorite way to strip a Z? steve77

There are some similarities to the Opel GT's...but the Z has some similarities to the Opel Gt and the Toyota 2000 has some similarities to the Opel Gt....quite a few personal GT cars from the era have some similarities with the Opel Gt....or is it the other way around? I wouldn't want one for the simple fact they have VW motors and transaxles in them. But I found the design interesting. steve77

Another link with some great looking cars...Malzoni's and Pumas and the Ompala...Where do I find a 4.1 straight 6??? http://paulspumapage.s5.com/custom2.html steve77

Someone just shared the existence of the Brasilian PUMA automobile with me. Had never heard of it... Interesting. some of these pix look dangerously like...well.... Can you spell Z roadster? Hoping someone else knows something about these cars. My main question is: Who designed them? Was there a famous or reputable designer who concepted them? I have read through a few of the 'history' pages and can't find any deep design roots other than who started building them and when. Here's a link with a bunch of other great links at the end: http://wj2d.100megsdns.com/home.html Anyone? steve77

Yeah, it's really harsh. Messes with paint pretty seriously. Doesn't take it off, but dulls the finish and puts on white spots. But for general salvage work? GEEEEZZZ. Turned a 5-speed SILVER in one light application. A diffy took two. Sprayed a front crossmember/rack once, hosed it off and the next morning it was RUSTY. That's how little grease was on it! I'm in love with this stuff! steve77

I never weighed it to begin with, but my 77 280 currently weighs 2450. I estimate I have shed 400 lbs. steve

God this stuff works great!!! WAYYYY better than Foaming Engine Brite or whatever. Just the aeresol cans of oven cleaner. Found it at a local grocery discounter for .99 cents a can. Spray it on, it foams up, let is sit and hose off. Greasy grime just falls off! steve77

The latest junker I bought has this big black box for a coil. Mallory Voltmaster Mark II model 28675. I visited some sites which sell Mallory and found this particular model and it says 'for points ignition systems only'. If anyone's interested, here's the address for the PDF (so I couldn't copy and paste the info here): http://www.mrgasket.com/pdf/CoilsM.pdf It says not to use on (a particular) HEI, but I assume it means not to use on ANY EI? Why is this? Not dealing witht he older cars too much, I didn't realize there were two different typse of coils. What would happen if I used this coil on a EI motor? steve77

Is there a way to 'revitalize' a battery? Two batteries came in with these last two Z's I bought. Both had the dots punched out showing a sold date of early 2002. Both cars have been parked for 6 months. Both are high-quality brands (wet cell). When you plug them into the charger, the needle just goes instantly to 0 and just stays there, which usually indicates a shot battery. Is there a way to bring these back to life somehow? Both are very clean and full of fluid and don't have any swollen sides or anything (and the weather here never gets near freezing either). Any hope? steve77

Bumpers? Geeeeezzz...next you'll want a passenger seat... steve77

Twin Weber 32/36 DGV's on stock N36 intake complete with linkage and smog stuff from '73. Everything. Operating status: PO started the car for me about 6 months ago and I bought the car and it has been sitting on my lot every since. Large oval (5 X 9") K&N filters with a bit of surface rust coming through the chrome. Cannon adaptors and all solid linkage: no cables. The carbs have stamped aluminum tags on them that say, "Redline-Weber 32/36DGV5A K8688 CARB.O.E.NO-D133-3" $100 or best offer in 8 days. (Compare to MSA 11-3007) steve77 ZVOITURE@aol.com

DANG!!! You can put 265's on a 7?????????? Geez...and I was worried about putting 225's on a 6. steve

OK...so that's what Idid for now...I just pulled the long one that comes from the front and bent it into a quite sharp 90 and plugged it into the rear nipple. I put an angle relief on the 90 to keep it from kinking. Will run it this way for some tme and will be watching for any cooling irregularities. Thanks. steve77

Does the heater hose that runs from the front tee with the lower radiator hose into the heater core and back into the rear of the block serve any engine function? I am eliminating the heater and would prefer to just cap the front and rear inlet/outlets of this hose but want to make sure this hose does not perform a cooling function by moving coolant from the rear to the front of the motor (or visa-versa). steve77

If a person were installin fenders with flares or box flares or an IMSA kit or whatever.....What can safely be removed from the existing sheetmetal? I know the front is a simple unbolt/replace situation, but what about the rear? I don't want to just 'go over' the existing metal fender. To truly lighten, some of the existing material must have to come off... But what can be removed safely without damaging the structural integrity of the body system? I can't imagine the new fibreglas fender (blended in) will provide anywhere near the rigidity of the original. Can somebody clue me in? steve77

Damn! A perfectly good Diamante, too. steve77

Good, because it's a 390 I might want to use someday. What happens if you put a 390 behind a 240 4-speed? Hmmmm...I am assuming the ZX 5-speed normally in front of the 390 is a bit taller. YES, I know where all the tranny cal-q-laters and all that is...just thinking out loud. Thanks for all the input. steve77

Yeah, most people who sell the Suspension Techniques 25mm sway bar 'kit' includes the mounts and bushings with it 'complete'. So ST makes a 'universal' mount P# 9.5129 which the bolt holes will fit (holes are 2 1/16" to 2 7/8".....240 is 2 1/4 or 2 1/2", I can't remember). Anyway, it should work and Energy Suspension also sells a 'universal' mount of identical proportions. That's what I ordered from Suspension Restoration in Modesto, CA. steve77

So here's a possibly stupid question the answer to which has escaped me in all my reading on coil-ever conversions (cut/weld housing to relocate perch). How do you know what size cartridge to order? And where do you go to order it? Do manufacturers have a 'private' page page where they disclose the actual dimensions of the cartridges (without a make and model obviously)? steve77

Found something very interesting on this latest '81 I am stripping which I didn't know existed. Although there was no A/c installed in the car (and no signs of it ever being removed) the F54 L28 block had an Aluminum A/C bracket with idler pulley installed. Now, if you have ever lifted the cast iron bracket normally seen on these motors, you know it weighs 15 lbs or so. It is REALLY HEAVY. I can't believe this thing...it probably weighs 2 or three pounds! Mounts in the standard four bolts on the left side of the motor (under the disty) $30 shipped (USA). steve

All the Energy suspension and Prothane listings go up to 20mm. Where do I buy 25mm (1") front sway bar mount urethane bushings? steve77

Yes, the drive shaft roatates. steve

So.....normally, you jack up the rear end and when you rotate a tire one way, the other tire rotates the opposite way, except LSD's which rotate together blah, blah, blah.............What does it mean if the other tire DOESN'T rotate? Is the rear end horribly worn? I tried both sides, and the input shaft rotates along with each side, and the opposite end nudges a bit in the opposite direction, but doesn't rotate at all. Yes, the brakes were off...completely off: disks, calipers, everything. Nothing but raw shafts. steve77

Saw a set of ADVAN's on a ricer at a Honduh show this weekend which looked very much like that. GORGEOUS!!! steve77