Zvoiture

Cars themselves are being 'SUV'ed' also. Have you seen the Dodge Magnum and Chrysler 300? steve

Ditto...make sure you have verified WHICH e-88 you have. steve

My grandparents swore by Oldsmobile. They always had one. My grandfather used to take the bus to Detroit and drive home with a new one every year. My parents always had Pontiacs. Don't want to hijack the thread, but do you think--given global automotive trends--Chevy is regretting shutting down all their RWD plants? steve

Set of 225/50/15's (V-700 not Victo)....still have all three grooves around them (1/8") but all other tread is close to holographic. Probably have a couple auto-X's or a track day left on them if you are an inexperienced driver. Or would last all summer as street tires...just don't hit any puddles! Free to good home. In San Luis Obispo, CA ZVOITURE@aol.com steve

Can anyone verify an orange 73 automatic featured in CC magazine in '97? steve

An FI motor that runs rich is very simple to fix. Don't sell it. steve

Magnesium?

That was very helpful, thank you. steve

I believe Craftsman blew the whole field away in the popularity contest Carl speaks of. steve

And where does it belong? Sounds like I need a new booster. steve

This is EXACTLY what mine is doing. It totally stands on it's nose. I was ready to do something drastic like take the guts out of the proportioning valve or something. My mechanic said it was because I turned the frontt discs and not the rear drums. He also said the rears were not adjusted properly. Right. But there are still a few unanswered questions. Thread moved: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=86575#post86575 steve

...Moved from another thread.... This is EXACTLY what is wrong with my car and yes, I did remove the engine side of the rod to compare the length with my existing (it was adjusted in way shorter which I chalked up to being in an auto? Probably not correct, but that is not the issue at hand). The rod did offer a bit of resistance the first time I pulled it out and from then on it was just floppy. Reaction disk huh? So....to reiterate and unanswered quesiton: Can you get a booster apart? Does not look like fun. Or, couldn't you just adjust the rod out longer to compensate for the dropped disk? Or is it more complicated than that? steve

How do you tell if a master cylinder is bad? I am just at wits end with my brakes on this new car. Either that or the booster is working WAAAAY too good. The problem is there just isn't any pedal feel. My street car (280 with stock 7/8 and 280 Booster) has the nice gradually increasing resistance (motor running) all the way down. The new car has a 15/16 on a 280 Booster. The booster holds a vacuum and the system is fully bled (and bled and bled). The brakes work good, but there is no pedal feel. With motor running, it is just gush all the way down and then BAM! the brakes engage--hard. With motor off, brakes are very hard. I have gone through everything several times. My mechanic went through it and deemed it fit ("rears were out of adjustment a bit"). Something has to be wrong. Either that or this is the way they all are and my street car with its good pedal resistance is wrong. I don't think so. I'm going to take the spring off today and see where the pedal 'falls', in case it could be either of the rod adjustments, but you would think I would notice a short rod when the motor is off. It's almost as if the booster works to good. It feels like a mushy massive land-yacht Lincoln or something, except when they do finally engage, they are stopping a 2000 lb car with R4S's. I need to be able to feel them! Somebody help! steve

Wow, Crystal finally gets her forum. And her first post--NOT! Funny, I didn't see simultaneous cross-posts to ZCAR.com and others like in the past. Losing your edge, Crystal? steve

I guess every couple years we should bring back the old polls... steve

The 'flap-discs' are great too. Very universal. You can do ALMOST everything a wire brush and a carbide wheel can do. Saves changing blades. They come two ways--metal backed and carbide backed. I bought one of the carb ide backed ones thinking I could use it for a grinding wheel when the sandpaper was worn out. It didn't work. They just wear down to the glue and that's it. Actually, the best attachment for a grinder is ANOTHER GRINDER!!! You can't own just one (kinda like a Z!). You HAVE to have two grinders, otherwise you are just going back and forth between blades all day. steve

Geeeez...What are the Sherpas driving? I will be in Nice again in September...I am always a few months and a few thousand miles off! steve

Yes, and its almost Memorial Day, so we can wear white! steve

Ok, Tom, but if you brazed it and used a brass rod as your expendable, wouldn't that be welding? steve

>>>comment deleted<<< Oh come on! Don't let a little thing like good judgement get in the way of a good comment! No one else does on the web.... steve

Not a forced induction expert, but I think SU's have a problem with this sort of forced intake because of the float bowls. Nothing like an interesting EBAY ad to make conversation on a dull day.... steve

Yes, but twin SU's on what kind of car? Are we to assume a Z? Cold air boxes need to be engineered, man. You want LESS conductivity, not more efficient conductors. Fight, you brought your heavy metal to the wrong group. steve

>>>Maybe some American ( LHD ) owners should take their cars over to Japan for a show in the country where the Z was designed and made......<<< Would that be well-received? I can imagine a certain (small) group of 240 or maybe Z32 owners doing this. I don't know the quality of the average Japanese Z, but over here about 75% of 240z are absolute junk and about 98% of 260 through Z31. Perhaps the curve is the same in Japan, with a small group forming the club members and enthusiasts and the vast majority interested only in allowing severe wear from heavy, poorly maintained use or 'modifying' them with cheap, poorly-thought-out aftermarked junk. Is it the same everywhere else in the world? steve

>>>p.s. It is not a hat. It is a cap<<< And there are those who would argue it is a 'top'. steve

It goes nowhere. Quite empty. You can leave it open if you choose (mine is). The knock sensor operated not unlike the car alarm sensors that detect breaking glass. I have an 81 N/A side-by-side with an 82 N/A in the garage and one is blank and one is drilled and tapped. Both were off non-turbo motors (but I guess I already said that!). steve