Zvoiture

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Thanks. But jsut remember, Women start entering their sexual prime at about 36. steve77

Found this page the other day. There is a lot of interesting stuff on here--even thought it is a neck-car site. http://www.stockcarproducts.com/techindx.htm steve77

Too young, Too old, Just right. I don't get it. steve(not real brite)77

Oh, and....What part of LA looks like that? Where the hell are you.... Laurel Canyon? steve77

Hey Victor. I don't know if you have noticed, but your neighbor has a really great Roadster. steve77

Top of ZX tank...

So, by loosening the clamp and undoing the retainer tab, you can pull the return line out and reverse it, so the warmed fuel returning from the rail is domped out into the tank and not directly onto the pick-up. Probably not a big deal, but seemed logical...... And very simple. steve77

The ZX pick-up/level control unit... The return (and I am installing FI int his car) is the tube coming down on the left and dumping RIGHT INTO the cup holding the pick-up. Hmmmmmm...

There's not anyone around here who would need this, is there? No rust. But I did not 'unspot' the flange, I just cut it off the corner, so it would be a tougher welding job. steve77

ZX tank...

Found another one...

So glad the 40-60K range finally caught up with and passed the 25-40K one. Now it looks like a real curve! A real cross-section of society. steve77

Oh...and anyone reading this who buys Tokico Blues in the future, please come back here and post letting me know what you get! steve77

So...I played a bit with my digital scale today. The new strut takes 24.7 lbs to push it down to the same height as the old one (when brand new, of course). So you can say the new strut will add 25 lbs to your spring rate. That cool, I guess. Also, the new strut weighs 5.2 lbs and the old one weighs 5.6 lbs. So that is cool too, I guess! steve77

Latest news: Steve: Got a reply back yesterday and word from our warehouse is that the shorter shock (one with the silver piece) is the new one that they're shipping. We can ship you the newer style one and take back the old style one. Please let us know what you'd like to do. If you have any other questions, feel free to email me. Regards, Cuong info@autocarparts.com | info@Acura-TL.com www.autocarparts.com | www.Acura-TL.com www.NissanFairLadyZ.com Phone: 1-800-470-6388 Fax: 1-800-447-9257 Sooooooo.... While this isn't exactly "another 1st gen. Z-car strut manufacturer discontinuing the model", it is somewhat in that direction.... If this is accurate, if you order Tokico non-adjustables (blue) strut cartridges in the future you will be getting: For the front: HZ3015 (actually a re-badged HZ3038) remains the same. For the rear: HZ3016 will be a HZ3038 (same as front) with a 2" extension pressed on to the bottom to make up the extra length. Kinda 'double rebadged'! Of course (and again, it depends on this information being accurate) these will be shipped as existing stocks are depleted. The only difference between the old 3016 and the new 3016 will be the new one will be SLIGHTLY stiffer--due to the extra rod length. steve77

26th, those rags will only stop fuel leakage for a certain time! At some point you need to replace hoses or tighten bolts!!!! steve77

After witnessing so much confusion about "Is this an R180 or 200"--and being asked that question twice already this week. I figure this is as good a place as any to help wondering souls. Here is a short list of no-brain ID's: >>>>The most common one is "R200's are much bigger", but as has been mentioned, that is tough unless you have them side-by-side or are reasonably experienced. >>>>The two big main rear cover bolts (actually studs) that hold the diffy to the mustache bar take a 17mm wrench on the R180 and a 19mm wrench on the R200. >>>>Behind the output shafts on each side of the R180 there is a flange held on with 4 bolts. The R200 does no have these flanges. It is just smooth. >>>>The rear cover of the R180 is held on with LARGE bolts (14mm). The R200 has SMALL bolts (12mm). >>>>The rolled ends on the mustache bar of a R180 wrap around toward the FRONT of the car. The R200 bar comes off the REAR of the loops. Hope this helps someone. steve77

OK, I got a couple ones.... Brother-in-law parks Dodge Ramcharger on driveway. Driveway is about 25 foot long and garage is about 4 feet higher than street--so a bit of an angle. Puts in gear and goes under and disconnects the driveshaft. Luckily the neighbor saw the truck roll over his chest and called the ambulance. He got a free helicopter ride! Last week my employee and myself were tearing out a tile shower in a bathroom off a garage. The homeowner had a really hot Malibu (66?) in the garage. GIGANTIC 383 stroker and 6-speed. Still in the building stage. Rear wheels on the ground, front wheels off and on stands. (some of you can finish this story right here...the rest of you, scroll down.)..... Some plumbers came by and begged the homeowner to fire up the car for them. We were taking out a load of tile--between the front of the car and the front wall--just as Mr. Malibu jumped int he seat. I was in front and my empoyee was JUUUUUUUUUUST exiting the 12" space between the wall and the front bumper as the guy fired it up IN GEAR. Needless to say, with 500+ HP, the thing came off the jacks and JUUUUUUUUST grazed my employees calf as his leg was coming out. Can you spell crushed custom headers, mangled fat oil pan, dented Wilwoods. OK, here's the funny part. The guy's floor jacks could not get a grip on the car. I said, "Hey, I've got a couple jacks." See, I carry several old Datsun jacks with me for jacking up floors and shoring things up. Sure enough, the Datsun jack was skinny enough to go under the Malibu and lift it enough to get the floor jack under. He doesn't make fun of my Datsuns anymore. I give the car a HUGE shake whenever I am near it. And you're right: A complete car on 4 jacks is bulletproof. A shell on 4 jacks is a bit shakey. And I have learned about Z balance too. If it's on jacks, don't take too much out of the interior if the motor is still in!!!! Getting under a car still freaks me out. i don't do it when my wife is no upstairs and I usually keep my cel phone handy. Sorry, I'm a wimp. steve77

Hooker made a header for the Z? Is it still in their catalogue? steve77

#7 Alan???? Here is the best I have...My green car (the 73 is not photographable yet) and half my house. steve77

Oh...and Fuel Safe lists a round 'wheel well cell'. Pretty cool, but their REGULAR cell is listed at $746...I can't imagine what one of their 'specialty' cells would cost!!!!!! steve77

A friend of mine said, "Don't install the Summit cell. They are not SCCA legal." He didn't elaborate, but perhaps now I understand. SCCA wants a layer of metal between you and the gas. The polyethylene tank does not provide this. Is this the reason? Or am I missing something else? Does this 'bulkhead' have to be steel? Can it be aluminum? I noticed some other brands in the Summit catalogue, one of which is a 11 gallon Aluminum. steve

Latest news: Thursday I actually received a PHONE CALL from Coung at autocarparts. Seems the pix worked! Just to think they would have saved well over a week of e-mailing.... Coung expressed his deepest regrets and wanted to verify by phone which strut in the picture was actually the desired one. He said they have never seen Tokico add an extension to a stock model and repackage it (or at least no one has ever complained about it). He said they were in the process of "opening all the boxes in the warehouse to see if there were more." They are sending me a single full length unit (if they find one!) and I am to return pegleg. We will see. steve77

Front is finished. Ready to roll. Rear suspension should be ready to come home mid week, so started on some miscellaneous tear-out in the rear half. Am thinking about a tank swap which may or not include a spare-tire-well removal. Dropped the tank and drained the gallon or so of apricot jelly (or was it orange marmalade?). Nasty. And this car was running! Found a disconnected electric fuel pump back there.... L24 that came out had a mechanical installed. Whilst dropping the tank, found another reason to swap tanks: The spider web of hoses wrapped around through the trunk and around the tank going to that 'recovery' or 'expansion' thingy in the quarter. What on earth is the function? While we are asking questions, got a couple more: Did they BUILD the car around the filler neck/hose? Unless that thing was A LOT more flexible when new, they HAD to have welded the rear fender on with it installed. When they balanced the driveshat at the factory, did they allow for 1/4" of undercoating being applied to one side? FACT: R200's are a HECK of a lot easier to pull than R180's. Is there any benefit to a rear-oriented rear sway bar? I have the option of either. The only thing I can think of is that it would make changing a diffy or driveshaft easier? Could you safely mount a muffler UNDER a fuel tank? My idea is to cut out the well, weld in a flat floor and install a ZX fuel tank (because it is long and flat, without the hump). Pros and cons. Center of gravity rises, but not more than installing one of the well cells. Bottom of tank will be well behind and up under the rear valence. Won't show from the rear and tons more ground clearance. Tank is larger/heavier (17 gal.) but no one says you have to FILL it. My ZX harness and gauges would be plug and play. ZX's have a top access panel in the trunk for the tank that holds the level thingy and sending unit. Very convenient. But exhaust.... I would really like to run twice pipes out the center. Installing a flat, shallow tank up against the deck would give plenty of clearance for this, but i wanted to put a double tip muffler at the rear. It would be right under the center of the tank. Heat problem? Starting to think about dropping the motor in. How much more difficult or easier is dropping it in with the tranny and header already on? steve77