Zvoiture

I just finished putting the 6-1 on my race motor with 2.25 all the way back and a 5" Supertrapp with 15 plates. It sounds....um....very interesting. Kinda strange. Actually quieter than my street car. Haven't had it above 4000 yet, so I don't really know how it whines, but can't wait. Probably take the pates out for most tracks. Then it will sound right! steve

About 3/4 of a quart to fill the reservoirs and completely bleed from scratch. steve

I also came very close to buying this one http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=11571&highlight=race+car last fall. It might be still available. steve

The Caltrans car is in the classifieds. About 7k. I have lost the address of the one up at TH (4000), but am retreiving it. steve

There are a few available in CA right now. The cheapest is in Norcal for about 3500. Reno: 5500, One down south for about 4 and another in LA area for about 7. Or you can build your own for about 15. steve

Wow, lots of students! Very cool. STAY IN SCHOOL!!!! steve

Thank you for your concern over my sample size and focus. I hear you. But. If you look at the rest of the polls, somewhere north of 100 votes is about all you can get. Yes, we have a gajillion members, but getting 200 votes is a feat. I suspect there are only slightly more than that active around here. You are also right about the poll having NOTHING to do with economic status among members here. The question of 'How far do you reside (as an adult making your own choices) from where you grew up (yes, very VERY difficult for some people to define)?' is heavily directed towards the 'socio' portion of 'socio-economic'. Actually the question usually runs more toward 'how far do you live from your parents?' but I thought this would be simpler to define in a short front-page blurb. Also, you are misquoting me a bit and giving the impression I put more weight in this poll than I do. If you read again, you will note I did not say, "'THIS POLL' has deep reverberations in the socio-economic status of Z owners." I was simply referring to seemingly innocuous little questions and how much weight they can carry in determining what goes on inside a person's head. OK, where's my sauce? steve

And an Arizona Z Car pan! Funny!....I mean, I have one...it's just interesting, I guess. steve

Unfortunately, it seems the Front Page Polls section has fallen victim to the front page gremlins which have befallen us lately. steve

It is a very interesting phenomenon that has been considerably well-documented in social writings. Social geography is full of seemingly benign criteria that has deep reverberations in socio-economic structure. I was a bit surprised by the almost perfect reverse curve. It is always fun to apply these sort of queries to a group that is #1 Automotive folks (that means GEARHEADS), but #2, collector folks (can tend toward the pinkie-outstretched-wine-and-cheese-sort). steve

I am using the American term of 'High School'. It could be called 'academy' or 'prep school' or in a number of ways depending on your whereabouts and nationality. It refers to the (4 years in America) period of education between elementary and college. Please select highest COMPLETED. steve

OK, I think we have reached quorum on this one...and is as I anticipated--heavily weighted to close-to-homers with the military and disparate groups making up the other majority. steve

I, too tried an AOL search of Saner and got a few vague 'speed-parts' distributers, but no Saner.com, so to speak. FWIW, I e-mailed Dave at AZZcar concerning the sway bars he sells and he relpied that they are indeed of a rear-oriented fashion. I have one, just looking for a WCZR friend. steve

No...just the threads--like you would on pipe threads. One of the main functions of 'speed bleeders' is they have nylon (or equivalent) thread areas that do not allow air to sneak back in through the threads. The one-way valves are a nice thought, but the same can be achieved by elevating the pot you are bleeding into above the bleeder screw. The biggest air-entrance area during bleeding is the threads. Seal the threads and this is eliminated. With a vacuum gun, it becomes really obvious. Try to bleed with 'plain' threads and you get air all day long. Seal them and you get straight fluid. steve

One of the best items that come with every junker that travels through my garage is: They all have one of those great little body jacks in the trunk. I must have 5 or 6. I have shored foundations, roofs, jacked up entire houses with them, bent tubing, straightened everything and on one occasion, lifted a '63 Nova hotrod off the garage floor (it fell off the jackstands and no other jack would work--Datsun to the rescue!). One of their most valuable uses is lifting things up under the car for welding or just plain assembly. They work great for end links. Just put the top of one under the head of the link-bolt and give it a few hand twists. Sometimes you have to block the sway bar or control arm to keep it from moving. WATCH YOUR JACKSTANDS WHILE DOING THIS!!! Don't put so much pressure on that the car is lifted off the stands! Here's another tip: Put the jack under the head of the bolt and put a little pressure on it. Leave the top bushing off and install the washer (or several washers) directly on top of the bar eye. Install the nut and tighten. Remove the nut and re-install the correct components (top bushing and washer). This compresses the other three and their respective gaps enough to usually allow easy installation of the completed assembly. steve

In no particular order...... The 15/16 on the 83 and 4 is backwards (it also has a single reservoir divided internally). 15/16 from 79-82 are the same orientation as 7/8. Did you install a proportioning valve? Bleed both masters and then work from nearest to furthest wheel away from MC. Take the spring off the brake pedal and see if it 'drops'. I doubt it, as the brakes worked before and you didn't muss with anything. Reaction disc? Save the fresh bled fluid, let it sit in the bottle--covered--a while until the tiny bubbles dissipate. It is fine to re-use for major bleeding excercises. If you have run that much through, you've got all the cooked stuff and crap out. Get a vaccuum gun. Buy a nice one. Spend more than $50. Poor-man's 'speed bleeders' are: Wrap teflon tape around the threads of the bleeder screws. Quite a bit cheaper and performs the exact same function. steve

Yeah...I'd feel a lot more confident about the price if it were a stick. But there seems to be a decent market for the '73 autos. Another '73 auto just sold here (San Luis Obispo car sold to someone back East) nearly identical to this one. Orange, repainted, pitted chrome, almost 200,000 miles, exhaust leak, flattops, seats re-covered, so-so carpet job (over the diamonds), fairly well cared for, but rust in several more areas and quite a few more dings and not too much care about what kind of parts to maintain it with. $5000. So go figure. This car is worth twice that, don't you think? steve

Yes, the valve cover is painted! I open the hood and went, Huh? Owner says the shop owner did it without asking. Kinda stands out. steve

1. Yes, you're right. That does look a dent. I went over the chrome quite closely and the fit on the rear bumper seemed excellent. It's gotta be the light. 2. Aren't they always?!?!?! When I lifted the hood and heard them rub, I was like, "Oh no, not again!" 3. None? I do it for the love, baby! It's a community. We have to make sure these things go to good homes and hold their value. The owner set his price based on his research. I don't feel it is out of line. steve

Article on the car, owner and general Z facts and features with some excellent professional photos of car....

Centerfold, baby!!!

Collectable Automobile February 1997