Zvoiture

Rust. Very hard to see, but just above the jack-point and to the left a touch...

Engine right...

Engine left...

Interior 401

Interior 301

Interior 201

Interior 101

17:30

Two o'clock...

10 o'clock

Went and looked at a very near pristine 9/72 the other day. Completely stock (well, Fram filter and 195 tires) and mostly original, other than some very good maintenance over the years and replacement of worn items with Nissan parts. Original owner converted to roundtops. Owner is in the automotive repair business and has realy kept this one nice. 93,500 miles. Current owner purcheased it from original owner in '82. Always garaged and covered and dash shielded. Driven weekly. Weatherstrip all very soft and in excellent condition. Doors are noticeably air-tight. Original radio. Everything still works--even the clock! One small seperation about 1.5" long in one seam of driver's seat--otherwise perfect upholstery throughout. Not a single blemish on the dash. Threshold trim still bright. Fires up instantly and purrs with correct idle kick-downs. Valvetrain sounds good and overall very strong. Other than the rather bright valve cover (long story...) engine is completely stock and refreshed here and there with factory hoses, parts, etc. Engine has not been steam-cleaned but is proportionately clean. Some oil here and there. Dealer-installed A/C with new compressor. Paint is bright and BEAUTIFUL! Car has been re-painted the original color and has a few leading-edge chips. No dings or surface irregularities at all. All panels very smooth and well-fitting. Both floorpans show signes of earth-contact. Everything else perfect. I went over, around and through this car very closely for over an hour and found only two tiny bubbles less than 1/4" in diameter in the passenger dogleg. Rear inner fender seams, rockers, fenders, hood mounts, cowl, floors, rear inner deck, battery tray--all solid to eye and probe. Some paint peeling under bettery tray. All drains in place. Very VERY nice throughout. A beautiful example of reasonable care and use over 30+ years. Always a Southern CA car--originally in Los Angeles and currently in San Luis Obispo. And its a star!!! Car and owner was featured in Collectable Automobile magazine February/97. $10,000 For more information call Steve at 805-441-6856 or ZVOITURE@aol.com Several pictures to follow..... steve

I wouldn't bother seperating the halfshafts unless you are somehow re-building them or refreshing the boots. Just swap in the whole thing. The hub bolt patterns are all the same until Z31 and theories concerning strange right/left length differences or S130's being too long have never been witnessed by this humble writer. steve

Here's a set: http://www.zparts.com/ads/arrivals/recent%20parts%20arrivals.html steve

Yes, lots of H130's have them--and a few 280's. Like a lot of Nissan parts, kinda a crapshoot. At least they are easy to spot--no bolthead. steve

Where to buy? steve

And just think: When I sel this car, I can advertise: TWO REACTION DISKS!!! steve

Yeah, I pulled the master. I suppose you could just unbolt it and bend it out of the way, but it seems like a lot of stress on the brake lines. I suppose if you just bleed the master and not the wheels there is only the possibility of a bubble between the bottom of the master and the top of the brake lines. On a street car it might not affect much and might even work it's way out. This is a race car and the fluid takes a lot of stress, and gets cooked quickly. With those kind of temperatures inside the lines, you don't want any air (air=moisture). I bleed my car every day so its no big deal. With the right tools, it only takes a second. I'll probalby drive it tomorrow, and I will let you know if it works. steve

I did it I did it I did it!!!! And ON the car, no less! (for those who have not experienced removing a booster in a race car with full cage and seat--it ranks right up there with rear spindle pins...and I'm little!) Remove master cylinder. Grasp the rod and move it in and out of it's seat a bit, feeling and listening. If you feel the solid 'click click click' of metal on metal with no 'give', your reaction disk is gone. If it is quiet and 'gives' a bit, it's still there. There is a blued steel spring-lock-retainer clippy thing holding the gasket around the rod. Put a flat screwdriver under one edge and pry out. It will break at the screwdriver, but it doesn't seem to affect re-assembly. It still holds the rubber boot in nicely. Under the clip is the rubber boot and a large flat washer. Pull the rod out and all this will come with it. It will resist quite a bit a first. The rod has a large solid metal base affixed to it. The reaction disk goes between the base and it's seat in the booster. The disk is the same diameter as the base and about 3/16" thick solid rubber. I repeated the above steps with another booster I had (one that didn't hold vaccuum) and there is liberal grease on the base and the disk sticks to it and will come out with it. With the reaction disk firmly affixed to the base of the rod with the grease, just re-insert. Put the metal washer and rubber boot back on and snap in the--now broken--retainer. Re-install the master and bleed. 15 minutes! I have not applied vaccuum yet, but the pedal feel is worlds better. steve

I was implying from a 'shape' standpoint. steve

...what nationality would she be? steve

Hey, can we get the 'Auto Racing' ticker from ABOUT or even the 'Vintage Auto' ticker instead of the NASCAR ticker? Are there that many NASCAR fans here? steve

Dave, your life will never be the same after these tires. Prepare yourself for an addiction to 'stick'. steve

Because no one says 'thank you' quite enough, I just want to tell everyone what a wonderful club you all have made this place. You all--yes, ALL OF YOU, have done one of two things: 1. You are all decent, logical, confident people who practice common decency, 'think-before-you-type', are blessed with higher-than-average IQ's and generally respect your fellow man--even when they are faceless. --OR-- 2. Mike deletes everything sub-standard so fast I never see it. I was just bored and visited a Z-forum I used to practically 'live' at. I am still in shock at how little has changed since I got fed up and left. Same old 'wide wheels' and 'header' quibbling. Same old 'bodily function' topics. Same old ebonic slamming and totally pointless off-topic conversations that erupt into verbal antagonism and name-calling. I LOVE YOU GUYS!!!!! Sorry I'm a grouch sometimes.... steve

>>>>why I think they are bringing the GTO over in the next year or so<<<< Already here. Have seen several--including one at the track. They sound pretty mean. Where's my Falcon? steve

There is a visible casting difference inside the chamber by the sparkplug. It is present on early e88's and absent on later. There is a good picture of it on Z garage or Zhome...can't remember which. steve