Zvoiture

In these days of scarce E31's....N42 seems a good 2nd choice. steve77

Wow, that's great! A ton of work and somebody else did it... I noticed no BMW or Volvo notes.....ANybody know what the bolt pattern on these are? I have seen older Volvo's with 4 bolts--I have no idea what year, because I am not a fan of the car...they are 4 bolt back when they were 154 and 164....BEFORE they were 740, 760, GLE etc...probably '70's. steve

Maybe the floorboards have finally rusted through and now when you look down, it just SEEMS like you are lower... steve77

This came through on the 510 list...somewhat amusing..thought I would share... Subj: New REVEL Datsun 510 model kit Date: 7/13/2002 6:56:37 PM Pacific Daylight Time From: bre66@(edited) To: bluebirds@bluebirds.datsun510.com Sent from the Internet (Details) Well, I bought one of the new Revell Datsun 510 kits today that are now on the market. For those who are interested, here's a kit review for you: The "new" box art is pretty well done.. The words "tuner series" in a special logo are on the left front corner. The picture of the model is of a dark blue 510 with a big Datsun logo on the hood... ( looking good so far. .. ) On the side of the box, there are four pictures of the optional decals on a yellow car, also showing the interior and motor bay... Inside, you find that this kit is a re-issue of the old and very rare "Brock Buster" car - a model of Pete Brock's personal 510, the yellow Zonker. But this "new" kit, has something interesting in it.. fully molded and hollow vinal/rubber tires! No more SH**y two-piece tires!! The interior is complete stock, with spare tire well as a "glue-on" also. Let's see... parts tree # 1: full dash, back seat, and stock exaust .. stock front seats, battery, and spare tire well here. Parts tree #2: This tree has the hood on it. Also has the race part that replaces the rear seat! ( take out that back seat, I say ..) and the hood also has hood pins molded on it - still. tube headers on this sheet too. Motor/trans. halfs found here also. Finned rear end cover, swing arms, brake petal assembly, stock door panels, steering link, trans crossmember mount, and ..... working hood hinges found on this tree. Parts tree#3: a rear brake light panel that's stock, ( unlike the BRE 510 model ) so you can put a licence plate on it.. complete with licence plate lights, front sway bar, wheel backs, front struts, rear springs, rear Koni shocks, "Spook", front seat bottoms, lower half rear end assembly - I mean, underside part of crossmember with axles and swing arms and R160 unit, ...and front control arms make up this tree. Parts tree #4: The chassis can be found here... with front motor timming cover, front valance panel .. ( now that's a real-life item that's hard to find undamaged these days.. ) Racing steering wheel, motor pully assembly, drive shaft, UPPER half of the rear end assembly - I mean upper part of the crossmember w/ upper half of R 160 unit.. , motor bay fire wall, and STOCK OIL PAN round out this tree. These four trees are molded in white, unlike the Brock Buster kit of yore.. they were butterscotch for the first runs, and yelow for the second run - aka - the first re-issue. Also the body is molded in white - and it still has the pop rivets on the rear flairs, and the hood pins on the trunk. Parts tree #5: This tree is all crome. CLEAN, RUST FREE CROME FRONT AND REAR BUMPERS can be found here!! ( Will SOMEONE out there PLEASE start making new, affordable REAL LIFE CROME DATSUN 510 BUMPERS for the masses ?? Geeez!! ) A set of Weber DCOE carbs w/ stacks.. ( not the best reproduction of webers I've ever seen - better ones in the same scale came be found in Fujimi kits .. ) four cromed Libra wheels.. ( without the center caps .. heh heh heh .. and I have four real life brand new ones still in the origional bags for sale if anyone is interested - pardon the small plug here.. ) a crome valve cover and cromed grill aaaaand.... a crome fire bottle and a crome hood prop as well. parts tree #6 This tree is clear plastic. it has a .. clean .. scratch free, windshield... another 510 part worth re-inventing for the real world 510 owner. Rear window, and two side windows.. and this is the cool part and a departure from the BRE model .. clear headlights. Decal sheet: Now here is something entirely new from Revell. Two different types of body graphics. very well done, at that. one set red, white and blue.. being a red center stripe w/ with white sides and same stripes for the doors, and a large DATSUN logo for the hood that also has the numbers "510" on it... two different licence plates... one that says "Datsun" in the Datsun circle, and the other - you guessed it - "LIL 510" - from California, no less. ( why does California always get picked? I mean we have some really cool 510's out here on the east coast too, ya know. That's it, dang it - I'm making my own licence plate for this model.. I always have too anyway! ) The black decal set has really cool side door graphics that have "510" in them pretty large... and angled stripes. A black windshield banner that says "DATSUN" and also, outdated I think - black with yellow type licence plates that read" MMJ 219 " ... from you guessed it, Califonia. I say out dated because I've seen the more scripty california plates around recently. Can someone out there explain why this kit would have black plates? Anyhoo, the last part of the decal sheet has some neat after market speakers for the doors and rear deck.. some white faced guages, and orange/black parking lights to put on the body. There are also some aftermarket performance stickers on the other side of the sheet.. ( sadly, no "BRE" stickers anywhere.. sob sob .. ) And one last thing I noticed about this "new' kit that's different from the old kits : No vinal hose for your cooling needs. Oh well, can't have it all sometimes.. at least you're getting a FACTORY TACH. !! ( Dude! You're gettin' a Factory Tach.!!!!!!!! ) just like buying a real 510, would'nt ya say??? Go get one while they're availible - they will surely be bought up as fast as they can be put on the shelves. ( mine cost only $11.20 !! ) Keith ( boy I must be really bored on a Sat. night to want to type this long, trivial and useless 510 related Email .. ) 510

I'm really curious about the users of THIS site... If you've got more than one--AND WHO CAN OWN JUST ONE--I'm not sure how you can vote for them...if you check "allow to vote more than once" it still says "you have already voted in this poll"...so pick one! steve77

You, know...it might work good for the dash if you could get it smooth somehow. The dash would have to be out and stripped to get it perfect, and if you could get it smooth, you can actually create texture on a surface with this stuff by fogging quickly with the can several feet away. Just don't put so much on that it 'solves' the previous application. It owuld be interesting to see how long it held up in CA sunsine! steve77

I did not paint my dash. It had gigantic....well, I don't have to describe to anyone here what 25 year old Z dashes look like....I bought a full dash cover from VB and refinished everything else--including that ninja-warrior-thing with the defrost vents in it. There are only two new things: The dash cover and the black shift boot. The rest I painted. If you're coming to ZFEST, you can check it out. The stuff is amazing. steve77

Fortunately for you, tomohawk's don't have rear windows! steve77

I had everything out for a carpet and upholstery job, so I epoxied/ filled any cracks and wiped everything down with Acetone real good and sprayed them with Krylon Vinyl Refinishing Paint. I used black, but it comes in several colours, including a cream. As long as you do EVERYTHING, you wouldn't have matching problem. The stuff covered great. Really thick. One coat covered everything. WAAAAAY thicker than spray paint. Hey, 72: do you ever get out to MarinaCross? Are you going to Fremont? We actually have a couple members in Monterey, but that is pretty far North of most of our group. steve77

Has anybody ever compiled a COMPLETE list of automobiles which share the bolt pattern of a Z? Ignoring offset. Just the bolt pattern. If not, post here the cars you know and when we are done, we can compile it and put it in Tech Articles or something.... Toyota Celica Toyota Supra Starion/Conquest Datsun 510 Datsun Roadster Honda (FWD offset) And...? steve77

For popsters, you want a slight gloss or even satin or low-sheen, but not flat of glossy (photo). The canvas is nice, but it should be coated after printing. It also has to be stretched over something. At our gallery, we publish paintings on canvas (a copy of the original painting is printed on canvas) and then they are coated. They look great, but the printer has like 10 billion DPI. steve77

I painted all the panels September 2001. They ahve held up perfectly. Armrests, consoles, top of door, ashtray....EVERYTHING still, looks wonderful. They stuff works shockingly well. My entire interior is a deep, shiney black, like it has a fresh coat of Armour-all on it...but I have never put anything on it. steve77

A friend of mine claims to have used electrical tape over this area. He says as long as you don't stretch it--even a little--it works fine (electrical tape is made to shrink back slowly). Have not seen the long term of this fix, but I can not imagine it holding up very long. He actually used the red of yellow or something to match his steering wheel. Might be worth a try! I refinished my door panels with Krylon Vinyl Refinishing Paint (black) and just sprayed right over the top of the 'wood trim' area and its adjoining 'chrome'. Has held up perfectly. no peels. steve77

Yeah, shocks don't hold the car up much, maybe 50 lbs at most when brand new... each? Just a guess. steve77

My car? Why would I want a poster of MY beater? Now maybe this one: Or this one: Or maybe: Or how about: Or: Ok, maybe: Would these be glossy and UV & Moisture stable? steve77

I parked along side a Camry or Elantra or something the other day and it had decent-looking alloys on it and the center bolt cover had a logo that read "Z Wheels". I assumed this to be the brand name. I did a coulple of searches and didn't turn up anything. Anybody know about these? They were definitely fairly new style wheels. I would be really interested to see the rest of their styles... BTW, most of my searches turned up O.Z Wheels (Italy). These are NOT them. (Damn, those gunmetal F1's are pretty!) steve77

A variety of things could be causing this... A. Somebody has stolen your springs. B. You cut the camber-adjustment holes in the strut towers too large. C. Your tires have been switched with 11.50 X 31 X 15's. D. You own the elusive and VERY RARE Z model produced by Citroen. steve77

Yeah, my wife loves her kitten. steve77

ARE YOU NUTS??? Mike, please...this is a family site. We refer to it as 'Secret Vice'. steve77

For Tokico's, be sure and check out www.autocarparts.com I bought mine from them and they were really great to deal with. Last time I checked, Tokico nons were $110/pr and Illumina's were $220/pr. steve77

The '86-87-ish 300ZXt. steve

Berry Fuddy.

I got addicted to Black Magic Professional Protectant quite a few years ago. It is nasty stuff, but synthetics love it. The best part is it is oil based, so it lasts through rain pretty good (on my OTHER cars! The Z is allergic to water). It will practically restore old oxidized vinyl and rubber. Really thirsty old stuff wil suck up several coats and look great. I rub it in really well--I'm not really into the wet-sticky look! And it comes off on your fenders if you don't. And your pants...and anything else that touches it. I wear surgical gloves when using it. It is horrible stuff. steve77

John, it sounds like you realize the myriad of variables involved in this simple question. The absolute best thing you can do is go to a Z show and look and talk. You will see under the fender, sticking out of the fender and everything in between. Find something you like and take notes. If that's not possible, lower your car first, then measure and determine the over-all tire diameter you desire. For instance, if you decide you can fit 25" of tire in there, it is really easy to do the calculations for 15's, 16's or 17's and what size tire would give you your overall 25". playing with offests and tire widths depends on brake mods, fender mods, spring stiffness, etc. etc. etc.... Find a good tire and wheel shop that is willing to take a few things on and off for you. Believe me, they will do it. All jesting aside, the 'Ricer' thing has been the best thing that ever happened to wheel and tire shopping. Good luck steve77