cegrover

I'm closing another loop on an old thread - this was traced to incorrect pickup coil wiring. When my body shop re-installed my stock engine, they swapped a wire in the distribution block near the coil. If you have your engine out, make sure you take good pictures for reference! Mine was out twice and I didn't get all the baseline shots I should have before the body shop removed the stock engine. So, when I took "before" shots to swap in my stroker, my baseline was wrong...

Update...six years later. I never did get this solved with the stock engine, but it recurred with the stroker installed. It was traced to the ignition box in the passenger side footwell. A good condition replacement unit completely solved this problem. Yes, it's an old, short thread, but I wanted to close the loop in case anyone else had similar problems.

Double post...

And...I moved across the Country and the Z is now a regular at Irvine Cars and Coffee! :-)

I finally have some outdoor shots because the car is running! Again, I had the bumpers installed when all the body work was done, so I don't have details, but I believe they welded up the holes in the rear valance and fabricated brackets to fit the bumpers. Don't be fooled, the car isn't done, as it has no interior...

MSA offered no depth info. When my car's back, I'll fit the panel and measure, then post results. I can't be the only one with this question...

Haven't yet - looking for direct experience here. They recommend their own Retrosound 6x9s, as one might expect.

I've found a lot of references to this product, but does anyone know the maximum mounting depth that will fit into the MSA rear speaker panel? This is for a '75 280Z. Thanks for any help!

Well...I have now obtained a good condition face plate with top antenna mount. Does anyone happen to have a top-mount antenna switch for sale? I'm attempting to place a want ad, but the site either has 'issues' or doesn't like my browser (?). Thanks for any help!

Is there a particular trick to getting the inside seal out of the pinion gear carrier? I'm in the process now and it doesn't want to budge with various screwdriver tricks, etc. I'll keep digging at it, but I always worry a bit about excessive force! EDIT: Okay, I got it. It just took more time with a jeweler-sized screwdriver. I also found a reference to the drill bit method, but didn't have a bit the right size...

I appreciate the replies! Using gratuitous forum searching (here and elsewhere) with good results and guidance, I have already swapped the board and plug from the '75 AFM into the turbo AFM (that's why photo #1 said "old board in new AFM". Despite LOTS of info on this swap, I've never seen a definitive answer to what people do about the couple of problems I found while doing this. 1) Based on what I've read, the fuel pump switch was only present on '75 to '77 models and the later Z and ZX switched to a relay based on oil pressure and voltage. So, the turbo AFM doesn't have the switch, but my '75 ECU is looking for it. If it's an open circuit all the time, I believe it will make the pump run any time the ignition is in the 'on' position, which isn't the end of the world, as long as I'm not in a bad wreck! I'll keep people here posted as to what I do with it. I suspect the reason I didn't find details here is because people just run it with the fuel pump coming on with the key. 2) The copper contacts coming out of the '75 plug aren't long enough to reach the contact points on the '75 board when installed in the turbo AFM. So...they changed the mounting points slightly somewhere along the line. This I can fix with small wires and solder, and I guess that was implied in the directions I found, or maybe later (77+??) 280Z AFMs are more directly compatible with the turbo ones (?). On the L-Jet and stroker - I agree it's well documented as sub-otimal. Long-term, I'll likely go with SDS or MS, which means the AFM will eventually be a moot point! But, for starters, we'll see what it does with the stock EFI using turbo AFM, 240sx TB and turbo injectors. I hope to be reporting back pretty soon!

Hi All: I am getting close to getting my stroker project running, and am planning to use the 280ZX Turbo AFM that I got with the engine (someone else's project once upon a time). I am swapping the NA electrics into the Turbo AFM, but have noticed two problems, one of which I can solve with solder (differing wire/lead lengths). The other problem is that the '75 has a fuel pump switch tied to the AFM. This means there is a switch on the circuit board and a piece on rotating arm that opens a circuit if the AFM 'door' is closed. The problem is that the Turbo AFM rotating arm piece has a different center diameter for the mount, so I can just swap them and make it all work. See below for photos. I'm hoping someone else here has run into this before - please let me know if I'm missing something or if you've resolved this before. Thanks for any help!