cegrover

Wow...I posted to that thread, too! Obviously, I've been inhaling too much of something in the garage...

Hmmm...I searched and didn't find it, so thought I'd post.

I had the usual problem with a stuck diff plug and, later, the same on a transmission plug. I ordered the correct square 13mm socket from the site below and, with a breaker bar, found it to be very easy to get the plug out. http://ultimatetoolco.com/drainplugs.aspx The site says it's for R160 and R180 diffs, but it fit my R200 perfectly. I'm now going to get one of these for that stubborn trans fill plug, which is showing signs of getting rounded... http://ultimatetoolco.com/ktc17mmsocket.aspx These aren't cheap, but it's nice to have something fit perfectly (vs. a 1/2" ratchet or bar) and not round the plug. FYI: It's not my site and I don't know the owner! :-)

You may be onto something - I'd want to be really sure everything stock was working properly before digging into anything else. If it really is flooding, it's certainly not an insufficient fuel problem! Also, more information on this build would help immensely. I am going down the same road - my stroker is in the car and I'll be getting it running in the next month or so. Mine has a larger throttle body, MSA stage II EFI cam, ~9.3:1 compression, worked P90 (previous owner had it done, so not too many details...hmm), L28ET injectors, older Nissan Motorsport header and soon a 3" exhaust (will use a resonator and turbo muffler to calm it). I'm hoping this combo of increased air AND fuel flow is what it takes to make the stock EFI work with a 3.1L L28, but I've done a lot of research and know many have been disappointed. As such, I know it's entirely possible SDS FI or triple carbs will be in my future. Random pics follow!

It's the urethane itself. I can get them to compress together in the vise and with a homemade press (long threaded rod with big washers, one wing nut and a regular nut, but they don't stay in when pressure is released. Good idea on the thin metal - will try that. I also may use a C clamp to try to keep them compressed and start wedging them in.

FYI: I picked up one of these: http://ultimatetoolco.com/10mmdrainsocket.aspx and it worked beautifully on my diff plug. I will be draining/filling the trans soon, but I believe the plugs are the same. I found the 1/2" breaker bar left too much play and wanted to chew up the plug.

Has anyone else had serious trouble getting the crossmember bushings to fit? Mine protrude enough that I can't get the piece to mount to the car. I've tried a vise, a homemade press and hammering, but no luck. Any tips? Thanks! Edit: FYI, this is a '75 280Z and I'm using MSA's urethane bushings

Note: I think I found the answer on another forum and some seals sold as R200 units are actually for R180, which means a different diameter. I have correct ones on the way, and will confirm here once I know they actually fit!

I know this is an old thread, but I have a related question. I bought new side seals for my R200 and they do not seem to be a tight fit. The old ones I had to pry out, but the new ones are clearly smaller in diameter and are loose. Are there different diameter seals for R200 differentials? My car is a '75, but this diff is a 3.90:1 R200 from an 82 or 83 280ZX. I ordered seals for a 1982 280ZX...

It seems the unit looks better with the Retrosound faceplate in a 240Z vs. a 280. I got measurements for the Retrosound stereo and the stock 280Z faceplate, and it seems it should fit. I may just have to see if this will work. Of course, my 280Z didn't come with a stock stereo or associated faceplate, so I now need to track one down...

I see a lot of references to the faceplate that comes with the Retrosound unit here, but I haven't seen whether or not one can keep the stock 280Z faceplate and mount the Retrosound unit in it, keeping the antenna. Has anyone done this? To me, that would be ideal, in that it would look a little less 'blank' around the unit, in addition to keeping the antenna switch. Thanks for any info!

Hi All: I have a '75 280Z that recently had engine-out body and paint and I'm trying to get it running now that everything is back in place. At first it wouldn't crank, and I traced that to a connector installed incorrectly. Now it's cranking, but I have no spark. Here's where I am: 1) Have tested with in-line spark tester and there is no spark at any plug and doesn't appear to be any at coil 2) Followed FSM guidelines for ignition system checking and everything was fine until I found a 'no go' result on the pick-up coil (involved testing wires at the transistor ignition box) 3) Replaced pick-up coil 4) Still have no go result on it 5) Have checked all the connectors I can find, as well as fuses and fusible links. Am I missing something obvious? I'm hoping someone has done this before...

Thanks! Yes, it turns out I had it in the wrong 'rest' position, so it was completing the circuit all the time. Newbie mistake...I am a newbie with starters, anyway (oddly enough). When reattaching the solenoid to the starter, should there be a LOT of spring tension? I'm referring to #12 in the attached diagram - it looks like the ends of the spring could insert into small holes on the solenoid body, but, so far I haven't been able to get it back together. If I insert those spring ends, the plunger won't come out far enough to engage the shift lever. If I don't engage the spring ends, I can't squeeze the parts together hard enough to get the screws into the solenoid...ugh.

Thanks - I did search, but didn't happen upon the one with the photo. It does appear that I have the wiring attached correctly. Of course, that's a 240 and I have a 280, but it appears that the starters were essentially the same, at least on manual cars up to '77. This still doesn't explain my constantly closed loop (I accidentally typed open loop earlier)...so I'll keep digging.

While my car was in for rust repair, other body work and paint, I have the MSA fiberglass bumbers installed. It's not running now, so I can't get good, outdoor shots. Still, I thought these might help for anyone considering the conversion on a 280. I'll get better photos soon...

Hi All: My 280Z is back from the body shop and I'm working on getting it running. 1) At first, the starter was not engaging, but I could hear interior relays clicking and the fuel pump running. This had me thinking it could be the solenoid or starter, as I assume the ignition switch must be working to activate the pump, etc. 2) I took the solenoid off to inspect its connections (looking for +, -, etc) and reconnected it the same way it was before, as I didn't find any clues there. I may not have reinstalled the solenoid correctly, as it now seems it be in an open loop, regardless of key position. In other words, the starter wants to turn each time I attempt to connect the battery (which also sparks, of course). Any advice will be welcomed. The car came back from the body shop non-running, so I'm not 100% sure the connections were all put in correctly. Is the wiring in the attached photos correct (battery and one other cable to top large terminal, wire to starter motor to bottom large terminal and small ignition switch wire to spade connector)? If that's all correct, is it possible I messed up the re-installation of the solenoid and associated spring, etc?