cegrover

A) Hmmm...yes, it's best not to lug an engine (i.e. run at excessively low RPM and cause detonation); but what speed results in lugging depends on some other factors. Generally, you'll know if the engine is lugging by the sound and feel and then will know to avoid it. I've always thought anything else was OK. Poor man's tuneup is something I've also heard of (AKA Italian tuneup); but I'm not sure it's ever been proven to do much. It's fun, either way. The smoke could be attributed to many other factors, however. C) Many of us don't have a fifth gear. I suspect the advice there relates to conditions under which overdrive is OK. Lugging rule A, above, applies here. D) What's the basis for the coolant removal recommendation if car sits for a year? That one's highly debatable, as having the coolant in there for rust inhibition would help. I've actually read it's best to put in a higher percentage of coolant vs. water when storing. E) I'm not 100% sure what "have your engine running temp checked" means. That's just something anyone with an old car should constantly watch, as overheating can happen for a variety of reasons. Thermostat failure is the most obvious and sudden. Checking coolant is also critical on any older, iron block and/or head engine, as corrosion is always a possibility. Owners who 'patch' problems often run only water in the cooling system in order to avoid constantly buying proper coolant and this, of course, eliminates the rust inhibition benefits of using 'real' coolant. F) Using the heater to cool the car works, but temperature problems should be addressed at the source. I only see that as a way to limp a hot car home or to a shop - except for track days or running hot on a mountain pass or otherwise under unusual load conditions. Overheating is actually worse for aluminum-intensive engines, but still to be avoided on ours. G) If you store a car long enough, you're pretty much buying a battery, but the trickle charger can be used for quite a while. I'm not sure about once a month - best just to leave it on (in a relatively vented area), depending on how long. KEY ITEM: If you use a "Carbag" to seal up a stored car, do take out the battery. You don't want to seal up a hydrogen leak risk...

Welcome. I also just got a 280Z ('75) and am getting my game plan together. If you search in the body/paint forum, you should find info on bumpers. There was a recent thread called "big, nasty bumpers", for example. I'm not sure about CD, but a search will probably yield results there, too. Enjoy the car!

Just for the record: the way platform development works, the investment in a new, RWD platform was not likely approved until multiple derivatives (two G35s and a Z, maybe even FX) with specified volume were committed; so it doesn't really matter which car came to market first - the G35 Coupe was not conjured up AND brought to market inside of one year.

Funny, the E-Type (obvious styling inspiration for the Z) walked down the same path with the 2+2 and really the heavy V12, too. Unfortunately, it seems common for automakers to get tempted with sales volume and "enhance" a lineup in a direction that's at odds with what made the car a success in the first place. All that being said, I'm a happy 280Z (2 seater) owner and I do think Nissan did a better job with its 2+2 than Jaguar did back in the day. By the way, FI is a potentially compelling reason to get a 280, as well, particularly for daily driving (easy starts every morning, etc). Of course, I do understand and somewhat relate to carb nostalgia/purism. Ultimately, for those of us new to the hobby, 280Zs are more plentiful and cheaper while maintaining some large percentage of the original formula; so they make a lot of sense. Of course, I also have the bumper swap itch. :cross-eye What Q45 Coupe? Do you mean it was a design offshoot of a Q45 Coupe study that never saw production?

You can just reply to a post in this thread and look for the "manage attachments" button below when you do it - should let you upload photos from your computer as long as they not too big.

Do you have any photos? Sounds interesting....

Here's one relevant link: http://www.zcarcreations.com/howto/240bump.htm I'm in the same boat. I won't do anything for a while, but I have a '75 with rusty bumpers, which means a I have a great excuse to get rid of this big things. :classic: I'll do some sort of bumper swap when I have full body and paint work done - not sure about fiberglass (body color) vs. 240 bumpers. MSA says their fiberglass bumpers fit early 240s directly and later 240/260 with minor work. They don't say anything about 280s; so I'm still looking into this and will probably end up on the phone with them sorting that out. My first inclination is to keep the stock valance panels, but it's not clear to me whether I can do fiberglass on a '75 and do so. I will post any news/results here... Edit: Here's another link: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=109717&highlight=bumpers

I know I'm replying to an ancient post, but...do you have stock springs? I'm considering Illuminas with stock springs and ST sway bars. Clark, the local Z expert here in Nashville, says that's a good setup for roll control without a really harsh ride and with adjustability.

That's what I was hoping. Thanks!

Hi, I was wondering is anyone has actually fitted a console from an automatic 75-76 280Z to a four-speed car? I have a 75 4-speed with a cracked console and have an opportunity to pick up a 76 automatic console on good shape, but want to make sure it will work. Thanks for any help!