Ophitoxaemia

i was reading in my haynes manual about various relays that cut power to the pump. thanks for the tip. i will look around for an rx7 pump this week! -james

excellent point about vapor lock! if i want to buy a new pump, what are my cost effective options? the cheapest ive seen are about $60. do i need to get exactly 4psi? going to a bone yard in my area is hardly worth it- they want way too much money for their junk and most of them are hard to deal with. -james

that red 240 in san francisco looks nice, plus no smog required. -james

i went to check the electric pump and guess what? it is missing! the hoses come out of the tank and head on up to the front of the car. -james

i know a guy with a clean 70 and a 2.8 motor, not sure if he wants to sell- i offered him $1,000 a few years back but he wasnt interested. i looked at a 240 with a 280ZX motor (not the 280Z) with a bunch of nice upgrades and a new custom cloth interior, i passed at $1500- it had a pretty yucky green paint job. good power though. cheap maybe, but you get what you pay for! these are no beauty queens! -james

i cant seem to surf up a page describing what i need to do to convert to all electric. i think my 73 has both an electric and a mechanical. can you point me to the right place? thanks! -james

i bought two 240z's in 2002, a full scca road race car with cage, fire system, fuel cell, full adjustable coilovers, welded diff, race seat, race tires, street tires, 3 sets of rims, plates, lots of spares and a low hours $5K rebello race motor for $3500, and a complete 73 240z with good compression and in pretty good shape (one rusty spot) for $500. the guy even towed it to my house. a friend of mine bought a very very clean completely original 240z, NO RUST, not a spot anywhere for $2000 december 2001, original paint looks good. ran a 15.2 at sear's on street tires and the high mileage slightly tired original motor. (all in the bay area, california) so keep looking! the usual advice though is find the BEST car and pay whatever you need to. -james

well, it doesnt even suck any gas into the pump, so i think its so gone its not sucking gas into the crankcase. the little flap was gunked up, so i suspect it cant suck air well at all. i am planning to take it all the car, take it apart and clean it. the rubber seal on the top part was in perfect, like new condition curiously enough. -james

um, isnt the block mounted pump mechanical? i thought there were two. i attached a hose to the one in the engine compartment and am feeding it from there. sorry, new to z's! -james

i put a hose from the inlet to the pump into a can of gas, then cranked the car.. no gas went into the tube. is this proof my pump needs a rebuild? or do i need to prime it? (i opened it up and put some gas in there). the car has been sitting for many years and all the gass has turned to brown gunk. (i replaced the rubber fuel lines and sprayed gumout into everywhere i could) -james

no problem, car just hasnt run in many years (maybe as many as 20?). just got it and the gas is all turned to goop. in fact, i can see past attempts to revive it and THAT gas has turned to goop yesterday i freed the floats which were glued into the bores with gooped gas. -james

are they really that awful? the car i have is complete and unmolested, so im inclined just to restore it to factory tune. but i dont want to waste time and money rebuilding the flat tops if they are crap. thanks, -james

thats my guess! non-running 73. -james

update: the needles were gunked/stuck in the bores... also no gas, turned to sludge and i pulled the rubber lines. im trying to find a battery that will take enough of a charge to crank it for a bit, so perhaps tomorrow it will fire up. (yah, new oil and plugs) -james

i just got a 240 with the plugs out so i just surfed this today. what i found out was all inline 6's have the same firing order: 153624 15 - too young 36 - too old 24 - just right you be the judge of what that means, but at least you wont forget now -james