clindayag1

thanks everybody for your replies. well my car is a '72 240z. the only mods i've done to it is a k&n filter and removed the smog stuff. oh and replaced the plugs, cap, rotor, spark plug wires. it could have something to do with the distributor because when i changed the cap and rotor, the rest of it looked pretty worn out. i will post a pic of it when i get the chance and maybe you guys can decide if i need a new dizzy.

i drove my car around yesterday and it ran perfectly fine with no problems. i tried driving it today and for some reason it had very little power. whenever i would try to floor the pedal for more power, it would do the opposite and decrease in power, it almost feels like its going to stall. when i floor it in neutral its smooth, but doesnt go past 3000 and starts to struggle. i dont know what it could be, maybe fuel related? its weird because it ran so good yesterday:disappoin

those are 16x8 with 225/50 tires. i've heard that they dont fit with stock springs and struts.

poor 280zx . what a complete waste of time and money..

i think 16'' gold mesh enkeis would look great on your car. like this:

i cleaned the spark plugs and then leaned out the carbs a little bit. then i let it run for a bit and checked the plugs. the plugs where still a tad sooty but leaning it out did help. BUT...now when i drive the car, it really struggles uphill and i can't rev pas 2500 rpm without it gurgling and coughing. still haven't got a compression test yet. is it easy to do? if so, i'll just buy a kit and do it myself.

I was gonna give my car a tune up today only to find out that 3 of my plugs had oil on them. the other 3 were all black and sooty. Which means that its running too rich right? And the other 3 with oil means that my piston rings are worn right? If so, which would be better to do: get the old l24 engine fixed? or buy a newer l28? I would rather get the l24 fixed but if the cost is equal to getting an l28, might as well upgrade then.

anybody have more pics of this car? the tree is blocking the front and i want to see the whole front end. also, where can i get this kit? <img src=http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/data/3425/medium/Pops_Z_Photos_039.jpg>

konigs on this site are $550 shipped http://www.jlbmotorsports.com/rims/konig-list.html#Rewind they also have some konig rewind knock offs called 'fast forward' but only have them in 15x7, i got them for $300 cash.

i got screwed on ebay a couple weeks ago. it was also kinda my fault too. i got a bumper off ebay from a 240z. the thing is i forgot to ask what year it was off of. when i got it, it didn't fit. then i just remembered that the bumpers on 73's and later where different.:stupid:. i have a '72. so....is there any way i can make that bumper fit on a '72? i want it to fit close to the body like how my old bumper did, before it was damaged.

sorry to be off topic. but, in the second picture, it kinda looks like you have some kind of custom side skirt or some rubber lining on the bottom side skirt. what is that? it looks really clean and i want to do that to my car too.

no i didn't bleed it:stupid: that could be the reason why the resitance is not the same. i'm a noob and can't find the slave cylinder. where's it located?

thank you everyone for your help:classic: i checked my clutch master cylinder and there was barely any fluid in it. i filled it back up and the clutch pedal started working again but still doesn't have the resistance that it used to. so i guess that the seals are worn and leaking fluid. i am going to get a new clutch master cylinder now. putting new fluid in is just temporary and i want to do a complete fix. what else should i do to make it a complete fix? new clutch slave?

today i just gave my car a tune up and couldn't wait to drive it. it started right up and sounded good. but then, i noticed that the clutch pedal had little or no resistance when depressed. then when i tried to put it in reverse, the shifter is stuck in neutral and wont go in reverse or in any other gear. i shut it off and now the shifter can move but the clutch pedal still has little resistance. i turned it back on and tried to reverse again only to hear it grind. i was able to get it into 4th but took a bit force to get it in that gear. also, another thing i noticed was that the speedometer stuck on 15mph, even when i shut it off. so is it the clutch, shifter or something else that needs to be fixed? i hate it when one fixes something only to have something else break.

i just found this on youtube right now. also check out the user's other videos. man thats awesome

i just got an oil change last month and rarely drive my z. i only drive it on weekends, so thats like 4 times a month and i only drive it to like the liquor store or some fast food place. today i checked my oil and it was pretty dirty and looks like it might need another oil change by the end of the month. is that normal assuming because its an old car?

its a '72. they are 2 red wires. as you can see, they go up and merge into that big thick wire located at the bottom of the pic.

i just noticed this today. where are these wires supposed to be attached to? i looked around that area and could not find where it belongs.

back when i didn't own a z and, were looking to buy one, i used to see one like once every two weeks. it kinda felt like it was sign that i needed to get one soon,. now that i own one, i see one like once a month.

oh i get it now. im such a noob:stupid:. now, i dont see the point of this procedure. so the clearance is now 2mm when i lightly press on the balance scew. when i let go, the fast idle screw is now touching the metal thing that it pushes down on. couldn't i have just screwed the fast idle screw down till it just touches that metal part and not have to measure the clearance? oh also, when i lightly press down on the balance screw,thus slightly revving the engine, the rpms go from 650 to like 2000 is that normal?

I have just purchased a Haynes Automotive Repair Manual for my 240z. This is my first time tuning carbs and have followed everything step by step and now have run into some confusion. On sec 16, #19 it says: "set the fast idle screw so that there is a clearance at its tip of between .039 and .079 (1 and 2 mm) when the balance screw is lightly depressed with the finger." i cannot lightly depress the balance screw because its screwed down to keep my carbs balanced. the only way to lightly depress it and make that 2mm clearance is to completely slacken the balance screw so the screw is not touching the thing that its suppose to push down on. but that would unbalance the 2 carbs.

oops i was talking about the one 3 minutes into the video:stupid:. but you are also correct.

so its a corolla eh? thats so cool. thanks arne anybody have info on the os giken head yet?

its not a 432, they said it has a OS Giken TC24-B1 Head. anybody know the hp and specs of this engine? also what is that black car in the video, following behind the Z? i think its an rx-3 but im not sure.

"It runs up through the gears a little low on power, but still runs". i have the same exact problem. my friend says the timing might need adjusting or something. i dont have the instruments to do that so i dont know if thats the solution. maybe you can try it out