speedracer906

Well ok. I'm missing the point but I was just trying to help with a strand of thought that I had. I'm 40 years old and not a yahoo. I drive sportily every chance I get in my street car. I rebuild my cars with theory's that make sense from my race builds. The biggest build I was apart of was an ex world rally car campaigned by Francois Delacour in 95. A good friend of mine bought the Ford Escort Cosworth from Great Britain and we had to completely re assemble the car from scratch. What a great opportunity. I co drive with Mike Whiteman, my friend in Hill Climbs that we run now out here in Colorado. We both have years of experience in Rally. Mike has had more in that he actually started Rally in the west when other friends of his in California would hold invitation only events in the middle of the night. That grew into 8 or so rally’s from California to the Rocky Mountains. California Rally Series or CRS was the Organization under SCCA at the time that I won my first Championship in 2wd in my Mazda RX-7. It was my second car the first car being an 84 Dodge Colt. (Interesting car) I then took a championship in 2001 in what we organized to be the Western State Championship Series. The next year due to not having enough funds to run all the events, my first place standing dropped to a tie for third. My cars won events because they lasted the tortuous riggers of rally. I’m way off the point and will avoid posting as to not complicate the process with my misunderstandings. Sorry.

"When you put the car in 1st or reverse and let out the clutch, no matter how gently or slowly, you hear something mechanical make a very muted thud. Its just one thud, but it makes it each time you go from 1st to reverse. I also hear a thud from the back end each time I get on and off the gas in 1st or 2nd gear, like the diff is torquing up." Ok well mine is a clunkish thud. I still like the idea of limiting the overall movement of the diff. It could help replaceable parts last longer. I race and find that bearings bushings and ujoints etc. tend to go at an eccelerated rate do to movement like that. I over build. I drive with spirit. Buy some parts for you differential and make more videos.

Wow! you have too much time on your hands!! No really that was super smart. At first I was thinking that the amount of movement the diff was getting didn't look like it could cause a clunk like you or I may be triing to describe. But then at 2:14 or so you dropped the clutch and the diff jolted enough to maybe hit something. Then you were working the throttle and I saw the same kind of movement and felt that if mine moves as much as yours or worse than you could associate the noise with the diff movement. The diff could be hitting the mount frame it's self. If you could find a urithane replacement I would replace it with that. I'm going to. That kind of movement could not be reinforced with triangulation with out carring the stress to some othe point and that could mean cascading distruction. Beaf the mount Ya'll. Just my opinion, hope it helps. Do some more video on the under bits, that's super cool stuff.

Well that would explain it. I thought I saw pictures on the web that may have shown both 11:00 and 2:00. I have yet to classify witch engine I have and assumed it was the factory engine. I suppose mine could be a L24E. so can I just swap the indicater over to the other side and expect it to work? 0 degree may be at 20 degree but at least it would have a referance point. Then I'll get an indicator off a straight up L24. (?)

"Did you (speedracer906) replace the front differential mount?" Uuhhhm, I don't think I did. Tourque from the driveline could bottom out (top out in this case) the mount. Now I'm going to look at that. Follow up: It had a Nissan sticker still on it and took it for being a newer piece.

"Did you (speedracer906) replace the front differential mount?" Uuhhhm, I don't think I did. Tourque from the driveline could bottom out (top out in this case) the mount. Now I'm going to look at that.

I too have the dreaded clunk. No high tech spec's from me but so far I have replaced all my Rubber, all my U joints and had every nut and bolt off and then on so I know there tight. Still the "BUMP". A lot of noise in the drive train was the U joints though. Moving at the U joint is never a good thing. Use Spicer brand U joints to replace if you love your car. For me I plan in confirming that the Mustach bar is'nt banging against the body where the mounting bolts are. New bushings or not movement could occur there. Look for clean spots on the car indicating movement or rubbing. A friend that trusts you could help too, Check, re check and be cool then get some body underneath to feel for the clunk.

So I just installed My new SFI-Spec Racing Damper, 70-83 Z/ZX from The Z Store and come to find out the timing marks don't align with the indicator on the engine. The indicator is bolted to the engine block at 2:00 relitive to the damper and the timing marks are over at 11:00 or so when I go to time the engine. I think the removable indicater on the engine is on the correct side and I do believe all is correct with any other bits having to do with timming. Although I will probebly never find an end to the creative changes past owners have done to this car. I debated moving the indicator over to the 2:00 position if no other solution is provided. I think the 510's indicator is over there. I also installed the FireBall XR7000 with HEI coil and there pick up in the Distributor. NICE! The car runs so smooth. No tach though. I bypassed the old resistor and played around with any other wiring configuration I could come up with but still no Tach reading unless.....Interesting, I turn the key almost to the start position. In the start position the tach works, but scabing on a wire to the remaining wires like the bypassed resistor set of wires or another in the loom doesn't produce results in getting the tach needle to respond. So my question on this is can I axcess the correct signal to feed the tach a signal and where would that be? I would prefer to not change the tach out. Jim