mgood
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Everything posted by mgood
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You should (or can) be able to remove it without dropping the trany. I say this because the 2 nuts sticking out of the back of the trany on the mustache bar are studs. When I took those nuts off of mine, one nut came off and one nut removed the stud with it. You might have to lower the trany, that means disconnecting the front mount member. Look for threads in the search area for replacing the bushings. -
In the 4th picture on #30 post it looks like you have a Amp Constant Current Rectifier. Here did you get this, could the 3 amp Amp Constant Current Rectifier from Carswell work? thanks for info.
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Arne, I am in, I ordered 2 with Datsun, I would like one in Datsun and one with 280 - Z if possible. I think they will look great and be very close to the one I have on my car now. I included a picture of my original taken from the inside of the car, you can see that there is a gap space around the letters. I think that was caused from exposure and shrinkage. It's also not as reflective as it was when it was new, you can see that from the photo. I am sure that the new one will be better looking because my original one was so dirty on the glue side when I got it that you can see the dust in between the glass and the mylar. You can see in the picture. Thanks again for all your work.
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motorman if you don't mind what were all different items you purchased from Caswell? I am now in the process of cleaning all the bolts and nuts for the rear suspension. Everything looks great by the way.
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The carpet under the floor mats look original to me and the arm rest in the center is an after market item. The rear carpet had a foam backing that would dry out and crumble so it was probably replaced. All the rest of the car looks very good. Welcome to the group, looks like a keeper. What's your cars vin number?
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ZWOLF your link is bad in post #9 Use this - http://blog.cardomain.com/2009/12/22/peoples-choice-2009/ the other had missing letters for "people"
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Someone on here mentioned that they were using very thin magnetic paper material to put their emblems on with. They also said that it was because the car was being entered in cars shows, this probably would not work if you were driving the car.
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Here is DATSUN one more time. The red background is the BRE car. The gray and off white is from the enlarging the image too much. Black that you can just see peeking out around in areas is the last one I did. The green are the letters from the one in post #114 that every one likes best.
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Here is the retweeked 240-Z. I thickened the top and bottom of the "2". I thickened all the "4" and made it a little narrower. I made the "Z" thicker on the top and bottom. I think this is closer.
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Here is the retweek on the Datsun, I over layed it over the Datsun on the back of the BRE car I copied it from, so you can see how close it is. I hope this is closer, you can see that it does distort some when I enlarged it. The "S" is the problem, it looks mor distorted that the other letters. I am now working on the 240-Z so I can see if I can improve on the numbers.
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Here are the new ones. I took as measurements as close as I could on my 280-Z. Again the black letters and numbers did shrink a little. I tweeked mine to fit the new measurements and added the subtle radius to the "0" and to the top of the "2". The spacing on each number is not the same and the width of each is also different by 1/8 inch. I also over lay my Datsun over the Datsun on the back of the BRE and this is what I got. The one I did was very close, I just had to adjust the width of some of the letters. The height of the 240-Z should be 2 15/16 inch on a background of 4 3/4 inches. I would make the Datsun the same and then it would be about 19 inches across the window. The 140-Z and the 280-Z will be 20 3/8 inches across the window. Arnie I will send them to you at 300 ppi or full size via email when they are completely approved and you are ready to go.
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Arnie and Cam guy, I actually took my 280-Z picture and made it fit to the 3 7/8 inch height and held the ratio of height to length. I then used those to create the 280-Z on top of it in Photoshop. So the 280-Z is as close as I can get to a copy of mine. I then used that to create the 240-Z, the only number I had to recreate from scratch was the 4. I kind of guessed on it because if you make it the same width as the 8 it looked to wide, so I narrowed it down about 1/4 inch. For the Datsun I just guessed, I kept the length of the Datsun the same as the 280-Z. Cam Guy do you mean that the outside radius is to large, I agree that is could be a little closer to the top radius of the 2. It also looks like the 2 needs a small radius inside the bottom straight. I can look at this on monday when I get to my studio. I know we can get this so close that you won't be able to tell the difference. What makes mine hard to use is that the numbers have shrunk a little and there is a ragged edge around the numbers about 1/16 inch.
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Arnie here is my take on the Datsun one, hope it helps.
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Here is what I did from my original shade. Hope this helps. I will work on the Datsun as soon as I can.
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Here is a photo comparison of my original with the new ones. Hope this helps.
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I'm with Z Car 77 that there should be sub listing. I have had mine for 33 years 10 months.
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Here are some photos of the Mylar logo'd windshield sunshades that I put on my car in 1976. The letters have shrunk a little but they seem to be just under 3 inches and the over all is 4 3/4 inches.
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I fell in to the #3 category and all by accident. I am the original owner of my car and I did not have any plans to keep it as long as I have. Just by chance I did keep the car and now it is a unique classic here in Pittsburgh, most have rusted away and are gone. I started adding thing like the louvers within a couple of years. The front air dam and rear spoiler came when I had to replace the front finders after they rusted out after only 4 years of ownership. This is when I didn't need the car as my daily driver and could just cruse the car on the weekends. After many years of storage I started the process of getting the car back to what it is now. I was lucky in the fact that I just didn't want to part with the car after owning it so long. I am now working on the suspension, changing the bushings and removing the rust on the suspension parts and painting and plating the bolts and nuts. I don't plan on any more mods than I have, just to clean and keep it from rusting. And hopefully give the car to my granddaughter, she is 2 1/2 so I have about 20 more years before that happens.
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here is a before (top) and after (bottom) of mine 11/75 for a 76. It is not Cali car and nothing has been removed or added. All I did was clean up things and paint the fuel rails gold.
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Here is a picture of what is in my car it's a 11/75 build and purchased in Feb of 1976. I am the original owner so it is original.
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here are ones I found on ULINEs web site http://www.uline.com/BL_8250/?pricode=WM219 Here are some from US Markerboard - 1/32 of an inch thick. http://www.usmarkerboard.com/Magnetic-Sheeting/8108?gclid=CKmo3vDK9p0CFaM45Qodpk93pg The thinist from Magnetking.com at 1/64 of an inch. http://www.magnetking.com/#psamagnet
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My car is like everyone, it does not like to below 2k and and I usually try to up shift at 3k or above. Mine seems happiest at 3k or above. I never try to start out in second from a stop, I will do a rolling start in second on the level or down hill but never up hill. The engine will shutter at that. My car has 49k on it. I have always wondered how the other z reacted to RPM's and shifting, now I know, they all seem to be alike.
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Welcome to the group and an other Z in the Pa. region. Post some pictures please.
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Here is a copy I made for my 76, it look very similar to the one WingZr0 has.
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This is the original radiator form 11/75, looks totally different. I am not sure if the 78 is the same as a 76.
