mgood

Here is a picture for you. There is right and left side.

Captain, I only used and use mine for change and a cup holder, a McDonalds milk shake fits just right. I have never used the little grabber handle to remove mine just the shelf. Now you need to spray paint your tray silver. :classic:

Found these on line, might work. Carpet Fasteners

Here is another picture of mine taken apart. 11/75 - 76 - 280Z. I have since painted it with aluminum paint. Small items are chrome.

Looking for the original 4 speed shift knob for 11/75 - 76 280Z. Would like a new one.

Drive your green Z today. Happy st. Patrick's Day

Here are is my and mjr45 in the same image. Remember that mine is a 11/75 - 76 280. The small harness goes up to connectors under the top radiator hose. Second picture. If I remember right there were 4 wires in the little harness. The hoses do seem a little different in their location and number. Also thanks everyone for the favorable comments about the engine bay, it takes a lot of work with it being Zebarted when new.

Here is what I did. Speaker Panel The covering you see is the original, it now is black vinyl. I also kept the original radio and put a new one with CD in the glove compartment. Original radio to original speakers and new to new 6x9's. If you do this you will have to Y the antenna lead to both radios.

Here are some pictures from my 11/75 - 76 280. Might help.

I have 205 / 70 / 14 on mine on a 76 - 280. I did have 215 / 60 / 14 Goodyear Eagle GT on mine before these, BF Goodrich TA, they are considered all season.

Here is what I created form mine. I can email this to you if you want.

I have the other kind that you have to drill the hatch for instillation. I have had them on the car for at least 35 years. These don't hinder the rear view because they don't cover any of the glass.

Original to the car.

Here is what a 11/75 - 76 -280 looks like.

Started cleaning the top of the 280's engine. Took my time and zinc and cad coated (Caswell Plating Kit) the parts that needed it. I did not have the capability to do the fuel lines so I painted them high temp silver. All of my connectors to the injectors are on their last legs (very fragile) where they have the little wires that connect to the plugs on the injectors. Before The great thing is after charging the battery for one night it started right up. I was very happy.:classic:

Here is mine for a stock 11/75 - 76-280.

My 11/75 - 76-280 has the rigid ones.

I have them on mine 11/75 - 76 -280.

Here is a 260Z from 12/74 I found on the Z Car Registry - HERE - go to 260 page at bottom. 74260ZMan 1974 RLS30-068689 L26-125534 12-74 Manual 305 Lt Blue Met Black 4 screw SU carbs installed Hope this helps with info.

Probably not because of the location of the turn lights.

Here is the best picture I have.

Your finished nut and bolts look pretty good. Don't go cheep on the plating process. Use this one Here Copy Cad® & Zinc Plating Kits - Electroplating & Anodizing - Caswell Inc - get the 1 1/2 gal kit. I would also get this rectifier - 5 Amp Constant Current Rectifier - Power Supplies / Rectifiers - Electroplating & Anodizing - Caswell Inc This one is a little bigger and will plate larger pieces. I got the smaller on and it will only do 5 sq. inches at a time.

Eastman Chemical Co. is not right, this is the link to Eastwood - Golden Cad Kit

Here is a picture of mine before painted gold and then after the Caswell Zinc Plating and copy cad. A note - make sure you get a big enough rectifier like this one 5 Amp Constant Current Rectifier - Power Supplies / Rectifiers - Electroplating & Anodizing - Caswell Inc. You need to do at least 8 to 10 square inches at a time sometimes. I got the smaller on and had to double dip as in top and then bottom of the large piece on the light.

Here you go. I knew I saw one just a couple of days ago. JDM car Parts.com