benn9090

NISSAN NEW '75 280Z intake/exhaust manifold gasket P/N 14035-N3201 and 10 Nissan new studs P/N 14064-E3000. $25 shipped

Pic of master cylinder

CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP compared to new or junk aftermarket!!! BR1503 Brake Booster 73-78 7.5 in. coupe NIB Bendix remanufactured Master-Vac - tested only and removed. $50 OBO shipped , compare to $199 plus shipping from ZBarn. BR1021 Master cylinder, (Tokico), 240-280Z, 9/71 -7/76 NIB NISSAN OEM Master Cylinder 7/8" - tested only and removed. $50 OBO shipped , compare to $128 plus shipping from ZBarn. Email at benn9090@midviewinternet.com

This is a new-in-box remanufactured Tokico 7/8" Master Cylinder fitting any '72-'76 Z car. Compare to part number 24-5081 from Motorsport Auto at $134.46. Unlike cheap rebuilt master cylinders (A1 Cardone, etc.) from discount auto parts stores, this one was rebuilt with ONLY Nissan OEM seals, springs, check valves, and copper washers. Most $40 rebuilt master cylinders are rebuilt with aftermarket seals of poor quality, and the springs, check valves, and copper gaskets are reused. $50 shipped. email: benn9090@midviewinternet.com

Bought new from Courtesy Nissan last year, don't need anymore. 14 studs and L28 square port gasket, new in Nissan packaging. Courtesy pricing was $9.94 + $28.27 + $10.50 shipping =$48.71 Will sell for $30 shipped. Mail at: benn9090@midviewinternet.com

New (Remanufactured) Vacuum Booster for all '73-'75 Z cars (except 2+2s), perfect condition, installed 1 day to test only. Compare to Motorsport Auto part number 24-5203 at $344.81 (old catalog, probably higher by now). No longer available at Carparts.Com, NAPA, etc. Asking $120 + shipping benn9090@midviewinternet.com

IMPORTANT: When removing the brake booster, or installing a used one, it is critical that you do not pull out the engine-bay side pushrod of the brake booster. The so-called "reaction disc", which is a solid rubber disc about the diameter of a quarter, can fall off inside the booster. The result will very poor brake feel - you will have a deep spongy pedal and then all of the sudden you will get full braking and the car will stand on its nose. If this has happened to you: Pry the retainer ring out of the engine-bay-side of the booster, and pull the pushrod out. Turn the booster upside down and shake it until teh reaction disc falls out. Use some tacky grease on the pushrod to get the reaction disc back into its socket. All will be well again. Learned all this the very very hard way, Mark

The air dam is the MSA lowest profile model ... basically follows the profile of the original sheet metal unit but with a slight lip. Also, below is a lengthy reply I made to a prospective buyer ... thought I would include it here for others. Regards, Mark ************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: XXXXXXXXXX To: benn9090@midviewinternet.com Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2002 8:46 PM Subject: 260 Z Is the Z still available? Looks and sounds great. What kind of maintenance do you see me getting into down the road? I know it is not a new car, but please tell me all. Thanks, XXXXXXXXX ************************* Oh man ... this is going to take a while. I come from a family that raced Zs in SCCA from 1970 until the early 90s. I bought this '74 model from the original owner with 43K miles (I bought it in 1992). It was always garaged, never wrecked, no fender benders, but had not turned a wheel in 13 years. I replaced all gaskets, seals, etc. to make it roadworthy. I had the car painted several years ago to fix what was minor bubbles of rust at the bottom of the fenders - this paint job cost almost $3000 and is base coat/clear coat. The entire car was painted just to fix those few bubbles, and several door dings, etc. There is no overspray, and the paint is holding up perfectly. The car was taken to bare metal and no evidence of damage was found. No winters on this car and rain is avoided. The car now has 79K miles, all this time I just babied it and did maintenance as things came along - clutch, brake pads, tires, things like that. Struts were replaced, KYB Gas units. I added an aftermarket electronic ignition, leaving the original one in tact - hence, on a road trip if one fails you switch over to the other. Dual electric fuel pumps also. My main use for the car was as a road trip car to races - to Watkins Glen, New York every year, also to Road America, WI each year. The driver's side seat was reupholstered with an "OE-Type" kit. Passenger seat untouched and perfect, but I have the other upholstery kit if I ever need it. Original carpets have never been in car - I received them from the original owner in plastic bags and left them there. Rubber mats have always been used in place of the carpet. Hatch carpet perfect. Dashboard has one crack, it was repaired and I covered it with a Datsun patch to keep heat and UV light off it. The original owner said his buddy got drunk over an ex-girlfriend and punched the dash and that is how the crack got there. Console has a crack where the choke lever is - common failure on these cars if the choke cables ever bind up a little - has been reinforced with an aluminum plate. Original steering wheel perfect if I recall - I took it off and put on a wooden Lecarra wheel. Shift knob has crack in shift pattern lens - this is a 240 knob I picked up someewhere - car had an ugly aftermarket knob when I got it. This past winter I decided to put Triple Webers on her - I'm sure you are aware the original 260 carbs are junk. I bought used Webers, rebuilt them with factory OE kits, refinished them with Eastwood alodizing, new Weber air horns, new Weber oval filters, new billet TWM linkage, and then discovered they were shinier and better looking than the rest of the engine bay. So I set about restoring the engine bay ... and what I ended up doing was basically a mini-restoration of the fire wall forward. The entire front end was off the car, every piece and part except the engine block and sheetmetal body parts ... crossmember and suspension all removed, sandblasted and painted with Eastwood Chassis Black. Alternator, starter, booster, radiator, EVERYTHING was stripped, rebuilt, and detail painted with Eastwood paints. New camshaft, rocker arms, springs, retainers, valve job, walve stem seals, water pump, oil pump, each and every gasket, o-ring, or seal, timing chain, sprockets, tensioner, manifold studs, manifold gasket, head pipe gasket. All parts were Nissan OEM if available, or next best thing if Nissan OEM was not available. New Nissan master cylinder was $130 alone. New Nissan brake wheel cylinders were $140 alone. New Beck/Arnley calipers. New ball joints, new tie rod ends, all new urethane bushings. New oil pressure sender. The block showed no wear on the cylinders and compression and leakdown tested great - hence the block was not removed, nothing was done with it except wirebrushing carbon off the piston tops and preparing the top block surface for a new head gasket. Clutch master cylinder was rebuilt with Nissan OEM kit. Fan, fan clutch, radiator, voltage regulator, relays, windshiled squirter nozzles, hood latch hardware, all that litte stuff - removed, cleaned, painted with Eastwood detail/restoration paints and resintalled. Chrome is perfect - I took the bumpers off and painted the insides for rustproofing when I got the car. All glass and weatherstripping is perfect. Repro rubber for these cars is junk - this car has all original Nissan rubber. Door panels almost perfect - no tears or rips, just nicks and chunks missing from fingernails near the window winders. Armrests perfect. All gauges, fans, wipers, lights work. The turn signal switch could be replaced - you have to move it into place firmly to get it to work for left turns. Windows work perfectly - no slop, they track perfectly, etc. The exhaust manifold is an N42 280Z non-smog manifold. This gives 95% of the benefit of headers without the leaks, headaches, high temps, etc. The muffler is a stainless steel SuperTrapp - the best looking and sounding muffler you can put on a Z if you ask me. Factory service manual, owners manual, original bill of sale, original warranty card and papers are all available. Original wheel covers, mechanical fuel pump, and any other items removed for any reason are on hand. Front dam is fibergalss (original steel one was beat up from roadkill, etc., but is still available). Weber Synchrometer tool available. What car needs right now: Clutch slave cylinder leaks. Cheap and easy to fix, just haven't gotten to it. Exhaust from head pipe to SuperTrapp needs to be added - right now I have a "test pipe" in there with an 02 sensor to help dial in the Webers. This section of the exhaust is literally a straight section with 2 90 degree bends. Brakes need bled. Needs an alignment after all bushing and ball joint work was completed. Tires not great - quite old, and they squeal like pigs. Worst things about the car: Driver's floorboard was dimpled from the underside when my father misplaced the jack. Have always meant to fix this, but never got around to it - not hurting anything the way it is. Front fiberglass dam is cracked from going up ramps that were too high for the car - this happened because the ramps I bought for myself looked the same as my Dad's, but were apparently not the same. The car always went up on my Dad's ramps fine, but the first time on my own ramps it cracked the fiberglass. The original owner used metal chrome mud flaps on the car and screwed them into the sheet metal lip of the fenders - this is what caused the rust I had fixed when it was painted. These holes are still there and are annoying, but cause no problem. There is a crack in the paint where the rear quarter panel joins the roof via a lead seam. It was that way when I got the car - when it was painted they "re-leaded" the seam but it cracked again. Causes no harm, there is no rust or anything in this area. That is about it - I think $6K is a complete steal for this car - it is a very rare day that I see a Z as original and nice as this one. A 260 with good carburetors is really one of the best Zs in my mind - you get the nicer interior with armrests and retractable seat belts, but the car is nearly as light and good looking as a 240. I should warn you I am not very willing to go below $6K - certainly I would not include some of the "extras" such as the service manual, valuable spares, Weber tools, and so forth. Maintenance down the road? None. Voltage regulator maybe? A gauge might quit working? The bushing kit I bought was for the whole car - you could put the bushings in the rear suspension, tranny and diff members, etc. to tighten up the rear suspension to match the new front. Lots of little stuff - shifter bushings, rewired the headlights (wiring harness connectors under steering column), fuel filter, replaced rubber bumper trim and hardware ... I could go on and on. An awesome car - but I have a Supra TT hardtop and a Spec Miata race car and trailer on the way, and a tow vehicle I need to buy. No space! After doing all this to the Z, I can't bring myself to ever have to do any of it again - time to sell it to a good home! There is a CD player hidden in the glove box - CD does not work, just use it as a radio. No holes are cut, there are surface mount speakers in the back. I'm an automotive engineer and I do everything the best way I know how - no shortcuts, no expense spared. If you're serious I can send pictrues of anything you like - otherwise my plan is to take her to the vintage races in the spring and try to get $7K for her. (Note: The car only goes to the races as a spectator - it has never been raced) Regards, Mark

Run with filters over air horns, but picture taken with filter housings removed.

1974 Datsun 260Z (early, thin bumpers, 240-style chassis), 4-speed, gorgeous, mint, no winters, no wrecks or fender benders, always garaged, 2nd owner, 79K original miles, 35K miles on light restoration, <500 miles on major hard parts refreshening. Fresh Triple Webers with zero-slop billet linkage, street port/polished E88 head and Cannon intake, new 274 cam, rockers, springs, retainers, and valve job. All new gaskets, seals, chain, sprocket, tensioner, oil and H20 pumps, calipers, wheel cylinders, master cylinder, rotors, suspension bushings, ball joints, tie-rod-ends. Only the best available parts used, Nissan OEM when possible regardless of expense. Engine bay components and front undercarriage all removed, sandblasted, painted, reinstalled. Many new parts, many spares, all documentation, factory manuals, factory service manuals. Selling to make room and $$$ for race car. $6999 firm. 440-329-9448 days, benn9090@midviewinternet.com, located in Cleveland, OH.

Please let me know if you have a working booster for a '74 260Z. Located in Cleveland. Email at: benn9090@midviewinternet.com (I don't visit the forums often). -Mark

Rolf, thanks for the pointer to the "get rid of the jerk" link on ZHOME.COM. I need to accomplish something similar, although I may do it by cobbling the Weber linkage itslef as opposed to the Datsun linkage itself. BTW, here is a fantastic website regarding O2 sensors and using them for jetting purposes. www.wps.com/LPG/o2sensor.html Eric, I'm afraid I have a similar situation - though I ported the head, purchased a 274 cam, and installed the Webers and the N42 echaist manifold (as opposed to my crappy 260 manifold with smog ports), I have what amounts to a 5% power increase over my old DGV setup. Here's to hoping things improve if I dial things in a bit more precisely .... -Mark

New annoyance: Although I am using the longer carburetor throttle levers and the shorter holes on the main linkage shaft, I have still had to shorten my pedal stroke by 1.5" by lengthening the throttle stop under the pedal. The result is a very "hair-trigger" throttle. Is this simply the way things are, or is it possible my '74 has a different linkage ratio than the earlier Zs this kit was p;ossibly originally designed for? -MB

The new main jets made a big difference to the positive! I also connected the exhaust, although in a very ugly manner, and I also took an old used 02 sensor from my '85 Supra and temporarily installed it in the front pipe and strung a voltmeter into the cockpit. Eric, you might consider doing a similar trick. With all that done, the car runs pretty decent - only a slight stumble on progression, which according to the 02 sensor is lean - and I guess my experiience with this car and my intution say it is lean as well. Assuming I have the 02 sensor specs correct, steady-state cruise is close to stoichiometric, just a bit to the rich side, and WOT in 3rd and 4th gear is on the rich side. I guess I could try 50 pump jets in place of my 45s to try to cure the progression stumble - any comments? Eric- My fuel dribbling ended when I completed the exhaust connections! My theory is that reversion pulses from the crappy exhaust scavenging of an open header causes fuel to be spit back in the venturi and it creeps out between the air horn and the body. I have been told that poor synchronization will cause the same. By the way, there is a Synchrometer on EBAY for bidding for $36 (new would be about $70) ....http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1841962591... .... and here is a good website about DCOEs http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman/TR/WeberDCOEinfo.htm Alan - GOOD POINT about the mechanical pump requiring a lot of time to replenish the bowls. I agree Eric should remove the mechanical pump. Other questions: 1.) Is anyone running vac advance? 2.) PCV solutions - currently I have a breather filter on the intake (valve cover) and a long rubber pipe on the outlet (crankcase) that vents low in the engine bay back by the firewall (under the brake booster). Any other ideas? Regards, and sorry for the long posts .... Mark

Eric- Your '73, like my '74, came from the factory with BOTH mechanical (mounted on the head) and electric fuel pumps (mounted back at the tank). The factory manual claims the electric pump's purpose is to defeat vapor lock. The manual also claims that the electric pump only operates at startup and below 750 rpm. The pressure of the two pumps is not additive. In any case, as long as the fuel pressure is reasonable (~3 psi), this should have nothing to do with your inability to start the car. In my case I have the factory electric pump still at the tank, and a "Purolator"-style electric mounted on the right front strut tower along with the regulator. I cannot yet say whether I will ultimately have fuel starvation problems or not. Dave - My carbs are finished with Eastwood Carb Renew "Bronze", and I simply buffed the brass bits. Carb Renew is an aerosol fuel-resistant paint, essentially. You strip the carbs to bare bodies, soak in cleaner, wipe dry, plug the holes with rubber stoppers and simply spray away. One can of Carb Renew will barely do three DCOEs. You can use the leftover to touch up brake line brackets, hood prop rods, etc. -Mark Bennett

I think I found something. It looks like my main jets have been soldered and redrilled --

Alan- Just measured my accelerator pump strokes at ~9.5 mm, close to the 10 mm specified for the DCOE18s. Byunique- I *think* I read somewhere out on the Web (Redline? Carbs Unlimited?) that ~1-1/2 turns out is indeed correct for some series of Weber 40s - bit I fouhnd a spec for my 40DCOE 18s suggesting 1/2-3/4 turns as a starting point, and that is about where they idle best. My popping is out of the exhaust and happens on overrun - but again, I have just a sawed off head pipe at this time. I have never gotten a backfire out of the carb - well, at least not since I fixed that huge dizzy advance vacuum leak! Thanks guys - I appreciate you hanging in there with me. We'll get EricB running right too. -MB

5 mins running at 70 mph/3200 rpm - plugs oriented such that darkest color faces camera. I also took pictures from 4th gear part-throttle acceleration, which burbles and barely accelerates ... they didn't come out, but they looked exactly like Haynes manuals tell you a healthy spark plug should look - though I feel it must have been rich as hell! -MB

5 mins running at 70 mph/3200 rpm - plugs oriented such that darkest color faces camera. I also took pictures from 4th gear part-throttle acceleration, which burbles and barely accelerates ... they didn't come out, but they looked exactly like Haynes manuals tell you a healthy spark plug should look - though I feel it must have been rich as hell! -MB

An example of my plugs after idling for 5 minutes. Idle mixtures at 3/4 out. Resultant action taken was 1/4 turn in on #6 (left most) and 1/8 turn on #5 (second from left).

No, its true I don't have the full exhaust hooked up. I was a little afriad to turn over my 6-barrel flamethrower to the exhaust shop with no brakes. I have unspeakable brake problems, but as a brake engineer I'm hoping I can fix them without requiring assistance from Europe . I would be happy to take my car to a dyno and have an expert such as the one you describe work on my car - unfortunately, I don't believe such a Weber expert exists for more than 1000 miles. I did some road testing at fixed RPMs, but the results were inconclusive. I'm afraid the ultra-hot Jacobs ignition is burning the plugs clean even though I feel am richer than hell. I should say, my needle valves could very well be what you describe (1.75 v. 2.00) - to clarify, those parts that are MARKED I checked with the manual and found them to be the same as those (hence alleviating me from having to write them down somewhere). EricB is probably eating and socializing with family for the July 4 celeb!!! Some pics to follow. -Mark

Thanks Phred - I reseated the throttle valves and that helped the Syncing a little. I don't think I had a vac leak at the o-ring gaskets (I sprayed ether at the joint and the engine didn't do anything). Jetting advice anyone??? -Sync'd with Synchrometer -Idle mixture at 3/4 turn out Jets are "stock", as listed in Haynes manual Chokes 30mm Aux venturi 4.5 Main 1.30 Emul tube F2 Air corrector 1.75 Idle jet 0.50F9 Accel pump jet 0.45 Accel pump inlet valve with exhaust orifice 0.55 Needle valve 2.00 Starts fine. Must progress with throttle VERY SLOWLY to keep from dousing the spark. If you push the gas down a little too fast it bogs and burbles. If you push faster it actually stops running for a second (but doesn't backfire). This is my first DCOEs, but it sounds like pump jets. Plugs looked reasonable - but they have seen perhaps 45 minutes cumulative of idling, 15 minutes of cruising, and only 10-20 shifts and transitions where it burbles and bogs. Thanks for any help, Mark

Alan, Phred, others that may know what the @#$%@ they are doing- Many questions, perhaps when Eric and I both have our cars running nicely we can compile this mess into a nice FAQ: 1.) Got my Synchrometer today! - With flow differences from one carb barrel to the next (within a given carb body), is the wise choice to average the two readings in order to match with the other 2 carbs? 2.) Is it typical to have barrel-to-barrel differences? I can imagine such differences being due to valve timing differences, compression differences, and/or a twisted throttle shaft. My data: Cyl# 1 2 3 4 5 6 compression psig 145, 145, 139, 150, 142, 150. flow (kg/m^3) 5.2 4.8 6.5 4.8 5.5 5 As you can see, my biggest compression difference is between #3 and #4, which is also the carburetor with the largest flow difference. I read somewhere it is typical to sync off the front barrel only. Any advice or comments???? -Mark Bennett Cleveland, OH (<-- nobody knows what a Weber is around here)

Got around to reading your questions more carefully - as for setting the float level, I try not to bend the float arms themselves much at all, but only the tabs. I take the float off and bend the short arm (for the level) and the long arm (for the droop) toward each other just a little too far, then I put the float back on the lid and flex things around until it matches the specs. I used drill rod of 5/16 (level) and 9/16 (droop) because I don't have metric drills. With these I iterated back and forth to set the levels. I takes perhaps 5 minutes per carb if you remove the lids and work on a nice bench. My carbs are brass-float 40DCOE18s on a Cannon manifold. All the jets and other calibrated parts match what the Haynes Weber book lists as the parts included with the stock Weber conversion kit. Engine is L26, mild port/polish on E88 head, mild Schneider 274 cam, N42 280Z exhaust manifold and head pipe only (like you, I do not have the exhauist fabbed yet). I have the stock 260Z fuel rail (2 outlets) and I have the return line hooked up. Alan seems to think this is not optimal, but I am telling you this only because my car starts and so I don't think it is your main problem. I have the stock electric pump and a Purolator style electric pump in the engine bay, the mechanical pump removed, and the regulator set to 3 psi. Not optimal, but again my car starts OK. My floats levels are set, but the car started even when they were WAY off. My idle screws are 3/4 turns out. The car starts no problem without the starter valves, much like Alan described - 2 pumps and 30 seconds of nannying the throttle. My timing is 10 deg BTDC with vacuum advance disabled. I have done no synchronizing, jetting or mixture adjustements yet. Things that made the car NOT START until I fixed them: -Weak stock ignition coil -Vacuum leak through the distributor advance dashpot. I would block off both brake booster and dizzy vacuum just to make sure. I have the unpreferred o-ring style gaskets, but I got new O-rings and used elastic stopnuts ordered from www.McMaster-Carr.com. At all times the car at least popped and fired, however. -Mark

E- Skimmed your message very very quickly, but in regard to your fuel dribbling, I suspect your fuel pump may be overpowering the Weber's float valve with too much pressure. I believe the books will recommended you use 2.5-3.5 psi, and the typical way to do this is with a fuel pressure regulator. The regulator is a chrome dial affair, adjustable from 1-5 in .5 psi increments - should cost about $28, brand names are Purolator or Fuel-Pro. I am a few steps ahead of you in the same process - my Webers are installed and running, but I have to get the @!#$% brakes working before I can do any serious road testing and jetting. FYI, if you decide to tear down and rebuild, I found that Pierce Manifolds had the best prices on rebuild kits. Regards, Mark Bennett '74 260Z '85 Supra '93 Supra TT