NismoZ

Well I already pulled the carbs off, I couldn't really get it to idle long enough to spray carb cleaner since they are not even tuned yet.. I did notice that it has wet spots on the gasket around the intake ports on #1 and 2 ... is that a good indicator of where the problem lies? i also ran a straight edge across the manifold and they seem to very a little but not much maybe a hair.

is there any particular kind i should use?

Crap I hope its not the throttle shaft... all the carbs have been rebuilt so they should be good.. what I did notice was as the car was running i could see it was a little wet in between # 1 and 2 on the intake gasket. do most people use silicon seal along with the gasket or is just the gasket usually enough?

OK, i got everything installed started it up and what do i hear? my Z that sounds like a Subaru and a SQUEAK SQUEAK to go along with it . I got a vacuum leak at the intake manifold... how reliable is the surface on a TWM intake manifold? do they need to be surfaced prior to installation. any suggestions?

I would sell the second car...

found what i needed...

Im in need of a newer linkage for my 72, Im looking for a 74-78 throttle slide that attaches to the firewall mount. Its #13 in the Diagram

Thanks for the help Nigel, Just to clairifiy what exactly do you mean by The "ear" should be just resting against the needle valve during this operation? Does that mean right as it touches the round head but no compressing the spring??

hate to bring this back from the dead but is it true you can reuse the MSA header gasket?

Yea thats what my thoughts are also... Ive heard the MSA Header gaskets are better made than the regular oem stander paper gaskets.. ive also read that others have reused the header gaskets without issue but im still iffy about it. Maybe somebody else can chime in on this. Thanks for the reply btw :classic:

Hey is there a gasket like this for the round port heads also? Im going to be swapping to triples and i am not sure if i should reuse the MSA header gasket i got on there now... it only has about 6k miles on it so its still fairly new.

Thanks Nigel, now what about the float drop? does it really matter?

Ill Take that as a no i guess... anyways im still waiting on the book i ordered so i will need to ask some questions on the floats.. How do you set them on the Dellortos? I was told 15mm gap between lid gasket and top of float 23mm float drop.. sound right to you? And if they need to be adjusted how do i go about doing so? I know im suppose to bend it somewhere but where..and how?

Any of you guys know if the fuel banjos from weber fit the dellortos? Im looking for banjos Like this http://cgi.ebay.com/Dellorto-DHLA-Carburettor-fuel-banjo-double-hi-flow_W0QQitemZ290375966338QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item439bc19e82 My carbs are currantly equipped with three banjos like this http://cgi.ebay.com/Dellorto-DHLA-Carburettor-fuel-banjo-Single-hi-flow_W0QQitemZ290377204277QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item439bd48235 Hopefully i could find some here in the states that are not overpriced

Thanks Guys... really appreciate the help. I do happen to have the "How to Modify Your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine" book and I just orderd the How to power tune Weber & Dellorto carbs... Im glad to hear i should be in the ball park.

Ok I recently bought a set of Dellorto 40 carbs for my 240z.. Then engine is a stock L28E long block with headers and exhaust. I need to know what should be the correct jetting for these, Im trying to find out what the ballpark figures should be before i bolt them up and have drivabilty issues.. I know its not really possible to say what exact sizes should be used do to sea level, location and the weather but i think any experienced tuner could give ball park figures to work with. With all that said the carbs are Tuned with 32 chokes, 57 idle jets, 132 main jet, 180 air correction jet, 38 pump jet and #11 emulsion tube and 5 progression holes.. How does this setup sound? I am Located in the Sunny So Cal in LA Thanks

Thanks for the reply Dave, I noticed the pin has a flat end on it, is this the pinch type? Also when i get the pin out does the arm pull right out or is there any other things i need to look for?

Well I found out what the problem was... It is the little plastic slider that attaches to the turn signal Lever or arm. When i tried to engage the left it had so much play in it that it would not fully complete the transition on the main switch. The switch looked to be in pretty good condition. So I did a temporary fix by applying a small o ring in the plastic slider Located between the arm and switch where the switch nipple goes and it seems to have fixed the problem. Is there a way to take of the turn signal arm? The paint on mine is coming off and is all rusty and needs a good cleaning and a fresh coat of paint.

thanks that's what i needed to know.. I guess its 44-45's or nothing.

ok i didnt get the mikunis after all.. guy sold them for a good chunk of change. So im on the hunt again, What do you guys think of dellorto 40's for a l28? they are tuned with 32 chokes, 57 idle jets, 132 main jet, 180 air correction jet, 38 pump jet and #11 emulsion tube?

Thanks Dave!... this info will come in handy, ill give it a look tomorrow.

Ok i have a little issue and wanted need some help... Im not really familiar with the wiring in the z yet so hopefully somebody can suggest a cure... about a week ago i noticed my in dash left turn signal (the green arrow) stopped flashing but i could still hear the clicking... so i went to look at the rear left tail to see if the turn signal was working and it was... so i proceeded to the front left and nothing the only time the front left light works is when the running lights are on... Before the in dash signal stoped working the outside left turn signal actually worked... SO with all that said is this problem related to a in dash light bulb? or is it something more serious? Thanks

so would it be a waste to buy the mikunis for 1500 if im stuck with the short manifold? He wont separate them..

whats wrong with the mikuni manifold? the one im looking at is the short version?

so if you guys could get some like new Mikunis for 1500 or buy new 45 webers what would you go for?