daddiodanger

definately use PB blaster(Walmart) religiously. Kroil is my secret weapon, but it's expensive. I picked up a can at an industrial equipment supplier for like $10. It has never let me down so its worth it.

cool , good info thanks this is a new one for me. this is my first carburated car so i'm learning alot. i have had issues with the carbs and the motor does need a new head gasket. i have another motor that i am putting together.

from time to time cylinder six stops firing. usually i pull the plugs and clean them off or replace them. i am aware that the carbs need to be overhauled and what not, but i don't think that is my problem. however, one day i pulled the boot off of the plug and the cylinder fired then cut out. i put the boot back on and the cylinder fired then stopped. so i was thinking the plug wire was bad so i tried a different one, and the same thing happened. so i pulled the plug and replaced it. and it was fine for three days then it happened again. so i've been driving around with the plug wire half way off. and it been fine. it seems extremely odd. i'm wondering if there is something goofy with the distributor?

I needed to replace my front right steel brake line. It starts at the distribution block and follows the firewall down under the frame to the rubber brake line. After some trial and error I apparently got something right, cause I'm still alive. So I'll pass on a little info. First, I bought some 3/16 x 25ft steel lines and a 37 degree flaring tool , tube bender and cutter from Summit Racing. I made two mistakes: 1) the steel tubing kept cracking while flaring 2) the 37 degree flare didn't hold the pressure. So i bought some 3/16 x 20ft Stainless Steel lines and a double 45 degree flaring tool from Summit. They cost more but not much. That solved my problem. the SS line was better and the 45 degree double flare gave the line enough flare to seal correctly. There is nothing to bending the lines, its fairly straight forward. Simple problem with a simple solution, but thats how we learn. I hope this can help someone. And maybe save a little money. :stupid:

sounds about right. i get the same kind of mileage. figured it is because it has a big engine

the coolant line is metal. i just cut the cracked section out and replaced it with a rubber line temporarily. i was wondering about the jets. i didn't know they made a high altitude kit, i'll look into it. thanx

thanx, thats pretty cool! in addition to the other parts i replaced. i replaced the mechanical fuel pump along with the filter. the car seems to run rich most of the time. i kinda figured it was cause of the two carbs. another problem that seems weird to me. the #1 and 6 plugs carbon foul while the #3 and 4 plugs seem to get overheated, and #2 and 5 are fine. i've tried to find some vaccum leaks, found a couple fixed them. the throttle shafts leak fuel a bit, too.

have a '73 240z, automatic with two weber carbs. i've been tinkering with it for a year or so. sometimes its a rocket, most of the time it's a turd. it's weird. anyway, up to half throttle the engine is fine, but anything more, nothing. the tranny downshifts and the engine feels like it's choking. i've replaced all the carb gaskets, cleaned the crap out of the filters, adjusted and readjusted, and readjusted the carbs. changed the points to a pertronix HEI, new pertronix coil, new wires, cap, rotor, plugs .033 gap, oil change, new muffler, replaced the intake/exhaust gasket. i think the timing is set at 9 degrees advanced. i live in reno, which i think is somewhere between 4 and 5 thousand feet. and i've been wondering if that is part of the problem. any ideas? i'm not looking for anything to major, cause one of these years i'm going to put a 350 with a manul in it. it would be nice to go down to the local Kragen to the chevy 350 aile and buy a $5 part, instead of searching the planet for a damn tranny coolant line, which i still haven't found by the way.:lick: