alordzot

Thank you for your info... Using a small amount of starter juce the engine starts and runs for a short period. . gass is flowing through the mech pump and there is spark... I think the issue is in the flathead SU's... Is that gie in Wash state or the west coast still rebuilding them and or replacing them when you send them the core? does any one know?

I have not worked with SU's befor and I need help getting my z started. after it has been sitting for 13 years. Car was running great when it was parked. The book I have has no info on trouble shooting it not starting. All fule pumps are working (electriccal and mech) I checked the dampers and the oil seems low. What should I do... No I will not sell it yet. 1. What oil do you put into the carbs the book calls for something called everyman oil. what the heck it that and what is the current replacement for it. 2. How much should I put in. There does not seem to be a measure stick or line on it. Please note that they are not dry just low on the oil. 3. I put a few gallons of new gas into the tank and sloshed it around then drained it out. Varnish city. I also pumped new fule through the fule lines to clean them out. 4. Any help in general with getting the car started would be of great help. Lordzot

I am trying to get a 73z started after 13 years of sitting and I have a few questions. 1. What oil do you put into the carbs the book calls for something called everyman oil. what the heck it that and what is the current replacement for it. 2. How much should I put in. There does not seem to be a measure stick or line on it. Please note that they are not dry just low on the oil. 3. I put a few gallons of new gas into the tank and sloshed it around then drained it out. Varnish city. I also pumped new fule through the fule lines to clean them out. 4. Any help in general with getting the car started would be of great help. Lordzot

Help My 1973 240Z has the following problems 1. It appears that my clutch master cylinder is leaking/blowing fluid around the reservoir cap seals. I have lost all pressure for the clutch. I have ordered a replacement cap for the reservoir and I am not really sure if that is the fix. Any ideas??? 2. What is the correct tire size to replace the original tires on my Z. Originals are 175 SR 14. Is this size the same as 175 – SR70 – 14. :stupid: Thanks in advance Alordzot

Victoria British has replacement parts that are original and after market. take a look at www.victoriabrittish.com. Try to keep it original. It makes for a nicer and better resale value car. Still trying to make it go Alordzot:classic:

It has been since Aug since I have been out to this site. Thanks again for all the info that all of you gave. It helped a lot. I have been making steady progress on restoring my Z to running shape. A little history. I Purchased a 73 240Z from my old Navy buddy ($200). He was the original owner of the car. The Z was parked in the garage 20 years ago because the battery had died and he was un-employed at the time. No other mechanic problems existed at the time the battery died. He loved the car and just never got around to fixing it. During the years that it was parked the mice decided to make a home in the glove box and fill the under side of the seats with dog food that they swiped. The muffler rusted off and the antenna was snapped off. The body is in good shape a few rust bubbles on the doors and the Floor panels are rusted through in a few locations. Since I got the car I have been working on restoring it as time permits. The following has been completed over the winter months. 1. New break lines (rubber and steel lines on all 4) and master cylinder were installed. Still need to bleed the system so they work. (should be doing that this weekend) 2. New Muffler from the header back. What a pain in the arse that was. The stud broke off in the manifold and it took one day of work to get the darn thing out. 3. New relay for the fuel pump in the rear was located, purchases and installed. This is not an item that is any of the shop manuals or books that I have looked at, nor did any one have information on it here when I asked questions on the site. I was finally able to find it by tracing wires through the dash and following the electrical diagrams in the book. 4. Found and replaced the gear shift boots (inner and outer) Found a local shop that made me the outer gear shift boot out of black leather instead of vinyl for $40 bucks. Cheapest I could find the replacement for was from Victoria British catalog and it was the vinyl, they wanted $42.95 plus $7 for shipping. 5. New plugs, cap, points, condenser, oil change, radiator flushed, and all new fuel lines and filers. Problems still waiting for a fix. 1. Rusted floor pans Driver side. (any advice) Found a place in Canada that has replacements. But have no idea about installation costs. Kit costs $232.00.(ANY ONE HAVE ANY IDEAS) 2. Replacement of the carpets. (any info to pass on about padding for it) I have seen some 3-in-1 Insulation, Heat Shield and sound deadener that looks good or should I just use the insulation material that is normally installed. 3. New Tires the existing are 20 plus year old. 4. New Radio antenna. (Original was a power antenna) Can not find a replacement. Haven’t really looked for one yet. 5. New Speakers 6. Reupholster the seats. General questions. 1. Should I replace all the bushing on the car? They do not appear to be cracked or compressed but they are really old. 2. Any other things I should do. Thanks again for the great site and all the helpful people here

I need help identifying and locating the relay that controls the electric fuel pump on a 73 240Z. The original owner of the Z informed me that it quit working before he stored the car. I have traced the power lead in the electrical schematic from the battery to the fuse panel and I have found the green wire lead for the fuel pump that has an inline fuse. The fuse by the way is good. However I lost it again under the dash headed over to the group of relays that are located on the passenger side outside wall, but these old eyes can not find the relay nor the wire leading to it. I need this information to correct the vapor lock problem that the electrical pump was originally installed to correct. Could someone please provide the correct part number for the relay and its true location. Thank

HELP….. I was over hauling the fuel system of my 73 Z to clean out all the metal lines, replace all the rubber hoses and change all the gas filters. This Z has been sitting in a garage for the 12 years and the tank was dry. . I pulled the electric fuel pump out and changed the filter and I bench tested the unit. The pump seams to be working fine, it pumped a good amount at a good pressure. I re-installed it and was trying to get it to pump enough fuel from the tank to fill the fuel system. I tried this by turning the keys to ACC and even tried to crank the engine but the electric pump would not pump. I traced the power from the ignation to the the inline fuse (black and white to green wire) but no power on the green wire to the electric fuel pump. I still could not find any relays on the green wire, are there any and where are they located. The Haynes book I have is useless for trouble shooting this problem and I have no other sources of info. 1. Does anyone know if there are control relays some where else that I need to check? If so could you share the locations with me? 4. Any other advice for this?

Further info. I traced the power from the ignation to the the inline fuse (black and white to green wire) but no power on the green wire to the electric fuel pump. I still could not find any relays on the green wire, are there any and where are they located.

HELP….. I was over hauling the fuel system of my 73 Z to clean out all the metal lines, replace all the rubber hoses and change all the gas filters. This Z has been sitting in a garage for the 12 years and the tank was dry. . I pulled the electric fuel pump out and changed the filter and I bench tested the unit. The pump seams to be working fine, it pumped a good amount at a good pressure. I re-installed it and was trying to get it to pump enough fuel from the tank to fill the fuel system. I tried this by turning the keys to ACC and even tried to crank the engine but the electric pump would not pump. No I have not checked the power connections to the pump with a meter my kids have hidden it from me. The Haynes book I have is useless for trouble shooting this problem and I have no other sources of info. 1. Which fuse is the correct fuse to check in the fuse panel? 2. Does the Electric pump come on when the ignition key is turned ACC? 3. Does anyone know if there are control relays some where else that I need to check? If so could you share the locations with me? 4. Any other advice for this? Thanks in advance Alordzot

Thanks for the info. I was going to approach it that way unless someone has a better idea.

Has anyone decked out a car with fiber optics? I have seen it done with the Neon stuff custom made and from Pep boys. But never from fiber. I ran across a company that has the illuminators that run off 12 volt and use high output halogen bulbs or super bright LED’s. I was thinking of kitting it and offering it to the car buffs that like that kind of stuff. Any comments?

Its been some time but here we go. I picked a 73 Z and towed it home on a trailer. The car had been sitting in a garage stuffed with old clothing and invading mice for 12 years. I pulled all the plugs and used a little marvel mystery in each cylinder. Hand turned the engine with no problems. I found very little carbon on plugs and nothing else. Tested and cleaned metal fuel lines. Replaced all rubber fuel lines, fuel filters (Yes filters - Tank, electric fuel pump and engine compartment) along with the heat shielding material. I fired it up and it runs really nice. Replaced the master cylinder. Now this is where I need advice. 1. I am debating on if I should rebuild or replace the wheel cylinders. Best pricing I could find was $13 for the rear rebuild kit or $65 each new. Front breaks are replace only. ??? Or so I am told or rebuilt’s for $35. Any advice on what to do? or better buys for the parts. 2. While cleaning out the car I found that I could see day light from just behind the passenger seat. Closer inspecting appears to confirm that the floor pans have rusted through and may need to be replaced. Have not checked the driver’s side. What is the best way to cure this, and is it worth it. 3. Since the car sat so long there is a lot of rust on the frame and and entire under carrage should I take the car down and have the entire bottom sandblasted , painted and sealed? Thanks all Alordzot

I paid $300 for the Car. Now let’s talk about getting it home. $100 for the Trailer, Gas to and from $100, Extra chains and U bolts to secure Z to the trailer $20. Picking car up from good friend and spending night out on the town with he and his wife $200. Drive home with the Z and the hangover Priceless.

ALF's I always thought that it stood for Alien Life Form and those that like 2+2's must be from a distance planet. Good luck on the project...

I was given a 1973 Datson 240Z that was parked in a garage in 1988 because the battery had died. The car was in working order in till then. The car has 100K miles on it and was maintained very well until it was parked. No prep was done to it for storage. My questions are about what maintenance should be done to get it street ready again. Do you know where I might get an engine manual for the car? I will need it for the tune up specks. Listed below are the Ideas I have. 1. Remove spark plugs and spray some WD40 into the cylinders and turn the engine over by hand to insure that the pistons are not seized. Do this a few times to insure that the pistons and rings do not stick to the cylinder walls. 2. Drain and replace Motor oil. Filling the new oil filter with oil to help prevent undue ware to the motor. 3. Pull the valve cover off and adjust the valves (If they can be adjusted) 4. Install battery and attempt to crank the engine in 10-second intervals to see if the oil pressure comes up. (I believe that this will tell me that oil is flowing through the engine.) 5. Flush the gas tank (empty) and fuel lines. Install new fuel filters and put fresh gas into the tank. 6. Flush the radiator and replace hoses. If all goes well with the above steps, I think I should be ready to start the motor up and see if it runs. Did I miss something in the steps above? The next steps I think I should take are: 1. Drain and replace all remaining fluids, I.E. transmission (manual type) oil, differential oil, and brake fluid. Does the clutch have a separate system? 2. Replace Brake hoses and rebuild or replace the calipers. 3. Pull all the wheels off and grease the axles, and Repack all bearings. 4. Grease all joints. Well that is what I could think of. Any suggestions?