reddie73

Anyone know if a 1976 Datsun 280Z accelerator pedal assembly will fit and work on a 1971 240Z ?

Thanks Zed Head I appreciate the response.

I have an extra set of front rotors and hub that I have taken the hubs off to put on new drilled rotors. My problem is I'm not sure if the hubs are from a 240 or 280Z since I picked them up at the salvage yard several years ago and I have a 240 as well as a 280Z. I wasn't sure if their was a way to indentify the hubs by the numbers stamped on the hubs/rotors. I just didn't want to get this assembled and find out the hub didn't fit the spindle.

I painted the center portion of the wheel with a graphite grey wheel paint to give the wheel some contrast and show up better on my 77 280Z. I think this makes the wheel show up better. The pain can be easily removed and touched up or completely repainted again.

You can remove the filter with some small needle nose pliers or with two small screwdrivers . The small filter is plastic with a very fine mesh screen material. I also have a Fram filter between the tank and the fuel pump. I use one that I can see any debris that might be traped and then I can change the filter. I check the screen filter in the fuel pump at least once a year. I also took my gas tank off, cleaned it and coated it with a kit from POR-15 or Eastwood. You can also take the tank to a radiator shop and they will do this for you for around $100 to $150.00 to coat the gas tank. The filter in the fuel pump is where the line from the fuel tank goes into the pump.

I have the Arizona Z Car four barrel set up on my 71 240Z and the instructions are to put a screen filter on the pipe , like one that goes on a valve cover and the only vaccum line is one going to the distributor from a ported outlet on the carb. The remainder are blocked off with nipples. You can go to www.arizonaz.com site and see the step by step instructions on the site. I think the Clifford set up would be the same. My intake has no place for the PCV valve to screw into, only a place for the power brake boster hose.

I have the full dash cover from Black Dragon on my 71 240Z I just finished restoring and it fit very nicely. The top of the dash was in pretty bad shape and I had no issues gettting the cover to fit properly. Refiting the door on the glove compartment requires some trimming, but I think that would be true no matter who you purchase the cover from. Most of the aftermarket companies like Black Dragon, MSA and others have many of the same manufacturers parts.

I've bled the master, wife pumped the pedal several times , held to floor and opened line on master. Pump bled the slave and also used my reverse bleeding Phoenix bleeder on the slave. Still not working. Fork rod does move, but pedal is still to easy to push down. This is new Nissan master cylinder and Nissan slave from Courtesy Nissan. As I mentioned above I put the non-adjustable slave on the car by swaping the slave rod from the adjustable slave so I wouldn't have to change the fork. The car drove and shifted fine, but had some noise in with the engine running and in neutral . I can't imagine that their is still air in the lines, but it could be. Has anyone put the later model slave on the early model Z like I've mentioned? Black Dragon shows the same slave cylinder for 1970 to 1978, which is the one I used. I have two of the adjustable slaves that I have tried with no luck.

I have a 71 Z that I have restored , painted etc. The problem is in getting the adjustable rod slave cylinder bled. The rod on the slave moves the fork on the tranny and the pedal feel is firm until I put the spring on the slave. The pedal feel then is way easy to push in. I have a Phoenix Reverse flow bleeder that worked great on doing this same job on my 77 Z. I had gotten frustrated before trying to get the adjustable rod slave to work and ended up putting a slave for the 77 on the 71. I used the rod from the adjustable slave , but my only concern was how far out to set the rod against the tranny fork. The car shifted fine, but in neutral I could hear a little noise. I want to put the original type slave on the car, but this is getting to be a pain. I have also had my wife pump the clutch pedal and I loosened the line going from the clutch master cyl to bleed air. Any suggestions? I have searched and gotten information from the site. One thing I wondered is if the spring on the side of the slave should be left on or off the slave when bleeding using the pump pedal method.

I did the hammer thing on my 1971 240Z with the 15" Rewinds and it still didn't clear. In a previous thread someone said they had just left the dust covers off since the center cover on the Rewind wheels were so close. I've done that and have driven several hundred miles and the grease has not gone anywhere.

I'm sure you have already thought of this, but most likely place to find this part is in a salvage yard. Places like Pick and Pull have a battery you could test the part before purchase or if not they will refund your money if it does not work. I have an extra set I took off a salvage 1977 Z and I'll use your testing suggestion to see if they are good. The previous owner of my car had bypassed these and it did fine.

I went back and read the instructions again and the wires mentioned were the wires on the engine harness side and not the wires from the voltage regulator (color part). Once I followed the instructions everything worked just as it should. I did however order the plug an play fix from MSA and it is the simple solution as well as much cleaner look.

Their is a nylon screen inside the fuel pump where the line from the tank goes to the pump. This screen can get clogged and cause fuel flow problems and I guess it could get bad enough to keep the car from running. Clamp the line from the tank to the electric fuel pump, take the line off the pump and with a small screwdriver or small needle nose plyers take the filter out and check for rust deposits. If you find rust here then your should have your tank sealed. Eastwood makes a kit as does POR-15 for cleaning and sealing the gas tank. You can also take it to the radiator guy.

I'm trying to wire up Hitachi internal regulated alternator upgraded on my 1971 240Z and the wires listed on a post on this site list a yellow, white, black, black with white stripe and white with black stripe wires. My wires are yellow, white, black, white with black stripe and white with blue stripe. In the post it says to connect the black with white stripe to the white with black stripe. I'm wondering if mine should be the white with black to the white with blue stripe or which wire to connect. Any help is appreciated.

The wires were connected wrong. Changed the wire positions and car started up in a few seconds. Thanks for the replies and help.