reddie73

Anyone know if a 1976 Datsun 280Z accelerator pedal assembly will fit and work on a 1971 240Z ?

Thanks Zed Head I appreciate the response.

I have an extra set of front rotors and hub that I have taken the hubs off to put on new drilled rotors. My problem is I'm not sure if the hubs are from a 240 or 280Z since I picked them up at the salvage yard several years ago and I have a 240 as well as a 280Z. I wasn't sure if their was a way to indentify the hubs by the numbers stamped on the hubs/rotors. I just didn't want to get this assembled and find out the hub didn't fit the spindle.

I painted the center portion of the wheel with a graphite grey wheel paint to give the wheel some contrast and show up better on my 77 280Z. I think this makes the wheel show up better. The pain can be easily removed and touched up or completely repainted again.

You can remove the filter with some small needle nose pliers or with two small screwdrivers . The small filter is plastic with a very fine mesh screen material. I also have a Fram filter between the tank and the fuel pump. I use one that I can see any debris that might be traped and then I can change the filter. I check the screen filter in the fuel pump at least once a year. I also took my gas tank off, cleaned it and coated it with a kit from POR-15 or Eastwood. You can also take the tank to a radiator shop and they will do this for you for around $100 to $150.00 to coat the gas tank. The filter in the fuel pump is where the line from the fuel tank goes into the pump.

I have the Arizona Z Car four barrel set up on my 71 240Z and the instructions are to put a screen filter on the pipe , like one that goes on a valve cover and the only vaccum line is one going to the distributor from a ported outlet on the carb. The remainder are blocked off with nipples. You can go to www.arizonaz.com site and see the step by step instructions on the site. I think the Clifford set up would be the same. My intake has no place for the PCV valve to screw into, only a place for the power brake boster hose.

I have the full dash cover from Black Dragon on my 71 240Z I just finished restoring and it fit very nicely. The top of the dash was in pretty bad shape and I had no issues gettting the cover to fit properly. Refiting the door on the glove compartment requires some trimming, but I think that would be true no matter who you purchase the cover from. Most of the aftermarket companies like Black Dragon, MSA and others have many of the same manufacturers parts.

I've bled the master, wife pumped the pedal several times , held to floor and opened line on master. Pump bled the slave and also used my reverse bleeding Phoenix bleeder on the slave. Still not working. Fork rod does move, but pedal is still to easy to push down. This is new Nissan master cylinder and Nissan slave from Courtesy Nissan. As I mentioned above I put the non-adjustable slave on the car by swaping the slave rod from the adjustable slave so I wouldn't have to change the fork. The car drove and shifted fine, but had some noise in with the engine running and in neutral . I can't imagine that their is still air in the lines, but it could be. Has anyone put the later model slave on the early model Z like I've mentioned? Black Dragon shows the same slave cylinder for 1970 to 1978, which is the one I used. I have two of the adjustable slaves that I have tried with no luck.

I have a 71 Z that I have restored , painted etc. The problem is in getting the adjustable rod slave cylinder bled. The rod on the slave moves the fork on the tranny and the pedal feel is firm until I put the spring on the slave. The pedal feel then is way easy to push in. I have a Phoenix Reverse flow bleeder that worked great on doing this same job on my 77 Z. I had gotten frustrated before trying to get the adjustable rod slave to work and ended up putting a slave for the 77 on the 71. I used the rod from the adjustable slave , but my only concern was how far out to set the rod against the tranny fork. The car shifted fine, but in neutral I could hear a little noise. I want to put the original type slave on the car, but this is getting to be a pain. I have also had my wife pump the clutch pedal and I loosened the line going from the clutch master cyl to bleed air. Any suggestions? I have searched and gotten information from the site. One thing I wondered is if the spring on the side of the slave should be left on or off the slave when bleeding using the pump pedal method.

I did the hammer thing on my 1971 240Z with the 15" Rewinds and it still didn't clear. In a previous thread someone said they had just left the dust covers off since the center cover on the Rewind wheels were so close. I've done that and have driven several hundred miles and the grease has not gone anywhere.

I'm sure you have already thought of this, but most likely place to find this part is in a salvage yard. Places like Pick and Pull have a battery you could test the part before purchase or if not they will refund your money if it does not work. I have an extra set I took off a salvage 1977 Z and I'll use your testing suggestion to see if they are good. The previous owner of my car had bypassed these and it did fine.

I went back and read the instructions again and the wires mentioned were the wires on the engine harness side and not the wires from the voltage regulator (color part). Once I followed the instructions everything worked just as it should. I did however order the plug an play fix from MSA and it is the simple solution as well as much cleaner look.

Their is a nylon screen inside the fuel pump where the line from the tank goes to the pump. This screen can get clogged and cause fuel flow problems and I guess it could get bad enough to keep the car from running. Clamp the line from the tank to the electric fuel pump, take the line off the pump and with a small screwdriver or small needle nose plyers take the filter out and check for rust deposits. If you find rust here then your should have your tank sealed. Eastwood makes a kit as does POR-15 for cleaning and sealing the gas tank. You can also take it to the radiator guy.

I'm trying to wire up Hitachi internal regulated alternator upgraded on my 1971 240Z and the wires listed on a post on this site list a yellow, white, black, black with white stripe and white with black stripe wires. My wires are yellow, white, black, white with black stripe and white with blue stripe. In the post it says to connect the black with white stripe to the white with black stripe. I'm wondering if mine should be the white with black to the white with blue stripe or which wire to connect. Any help is appreciated.

The wires were connected wrong. Changed the wire positions and car started up in a few seconds. Thanks for the replies and help.

I'll check to see on the wire issue as that was what I originally thought could be the problem. I'll hook them up the oposite from what they are now. The fuel pump is the stock fuel pump and I'm guessing it is Nissan. I'm sure the hoses are hooked up correctly. I tried finding a picture showing the wire color hook up on the fuel pump , but haven't found one I could tell the colors.

I disconnected the wire on the starter and turned the key to start, the fuel pump worked. I also took the boot off the AFM and moved the flapper then turned the key on and the fuel pump works. Took the fuel filter off I had installed and put new fuel hose on and still will not start after cranking for about 30 seconds. The car was running well before taking the fuel pump off. Maybe I'm not cranking long enough to get the pump filled with fuel. Any other suggestions?

Thanks for the replies on this. I'll try taking the wire loose from the starter motor. The filter is a Fram G3 and I got this from another part of either this site or another web site. I'll check the filter specs. I'm pretty sure the post I got the filter information from was regarding fuel injected z's , but I'll check this also. I also have the rear on jack stands and thought I might need to add more fuel to the tank. The gauge shows a little under half a tank.

Removed electric fuel pump from my 1977 280 Z . I put the pump back on and connected the green wire to larger terminal and black wire to smaller terminal on the pump. I also put a clear filter between the gas tank and the inlet line to the fuel pump. The car is not wanting to start and I'm wondering if I have the two wires connected correctly. I can't see any fuel in the filter I installed and wonder also if the fuel pump has to some way be primed since it is a wet type fuel pump. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

I got my carpet from Black Dragon and it fits great, looks great and service from BD was great as well. My experience with MSA has not been that great as far as orders being shipped promptly,items shipped being in good condition and a lack of communication when a part is not in stock. I do think MSA has more Nissan parts and possibly better quality reproduction parts in some cases than BD. My ordering experience and quality of parts from BD have been very good.

My drier was mounted on the passenger side strut tower on the old AC and I mounted the new drier in the same spot. The drier covers the ID plate on the strut tower.The brackets mount to the top and bottom of the radiator support by drilling holes in the support. Dry fit the condenser to the radiator support first then drill holes in the raditor support as well as the condenser. Be sure not to drill into the lines of the condenser. You will have to bend the brackets some to make this work. The fittings on the condenser on mine are on the driver side and the long hose from the drier goes in front of the condenser. Use the clamps provided to secure the long hose from the condenser so the hose goes in about the middle of the condenser. I got the black putty from Bumper to Bumper Auto parts (Master Parts brand # FSE59010 Temp Control putty). The putty I used is about 1 inch wide and is in a roll. The best thing would be to find rubber grommets to surround the holes in the firewall. I also used some heat wrap tape to wrap the hose that runs from the unit to the compressor because I felt the heat from the engine and header might get a little to hot.

Something I forgot to mention is my compressor mounted on the driver side mainly because that was where the other one mounted. I noticed in the picture showing the above York compressor that it is mounted on the passenger side ,in which case the hoses included to run from inside the car would be long enough. I also did not reinstall the air pump when I put the new AC kit on.

I have the Courtesy Nissan kit /Nostalgic Air that I put in my 1971 Z. My car had AC and it was similar to the new one as far as location of the unit in the passenger floor area. I had holes in my firewall where the hoses for the AC had been, but the longest hose sent with this kit was to short if I used the existing holes. I had to drill new holes just like it shows in the directions. If I had it to do over I think I would have taken the long hose or possibly both hoses coming from inside the car and had new ones made so I could have used the holes that were already in the firewall. The install is not difficult . Be sure to have a good seal where the unit attaches to the blower. Drilling the holes and the routing of the hoses were the hardest part I thought. I don't have any pictures ,but I could take some.

Very good explination conedodger, what you said is what I was refering to. I like the steering feel much better with the ureathane insulator, but that is my opinion.

I've done this and I can't tell it did anything to effect the steering or alignment. I put the harder coupler in my 77 280Z a couple of years ago. If your putting the urethane coupler in just pay attention more when turning into speed bumps, driveways and dips at slow speeds.