Nissanman

I have had a similar experience with my '65 Roadster. It was painted Kermit Green and ... well ... it just peeled off:( However, it had to come off anyway....

Found a few old happy snaps of the floor pan repairs I did. Scanned on my printer and posted here:) New technology is great aint it! You can see the 2 patch panels I put into the LH and RH floor areas, plus the under floor rail extending from front to rear. The rustout was caused by the factory rails being closed off at the rear. The junk got in but couldn't get out:ermm: The new ones are open ended, making it easier to flush them clean.

May as well remove the cover and get those fill and drain plugs fixed. Then refit the cover and re-fill with diff oil. As we say in Oz, suck it and see, the diff may be OK:ermm: .

I'll be 57 on May 15, 2007. Retired gentleman, well... retired anyway:ermm: Needless to say I am kept busy with all of my projects. 1965 SP310 Datsun Sports, under construction. 1971 P510 Datsun 1600, original owner. 1972 PL510 Datsun 1600 (LHD), under construction. 1973 HS30 Datsun 240Z, under construction. 1984 B120 Datsun 1200 utility,under construction. 1993 ECR33 Skyline GTS25t, shopping trolley.

When you have that grille panel off, have a good look inside the air plenum. There may be a horror story lurking in there, depending on what environment your car has been exposed to:eek: The plenum is large enough to get your hand into most areas: do just that and scoop out anything that shouldn't be there. There is an especially bad area around the heater blower duct. This is an oval shaped "chimney" that sticks up into the plenum on the passenger side of the car. It is under a water shed that hides it from view completely. A lot of debris can get trapped between the chimney and the firewall, causing severe rot:( Trust me, I've been there and it wasn't pretty. Also, you could probably do without the foam blocks that have been mentioned. They shouldn't trap moisture (but they DO!) and are only there to dampen any flexing of the grille. You could achieve a similar result with modern technology, a lump of neutral cure silicone sealant. Oh, and that water shed is usually spot welded in place. I drilled the welds and re-attached the shed with stainless self tappers. Now I can remove it and clean out the plenum a lot easier than before. I did a LOT of resto work in this area on my '73 240, but unfortunately, it was before they discovered Digital Cameras. I have real photos somewhere but no digi pics.:disappoin

Don't forget Mr Steering Rack:finger: He deserves a re-lube and adjustment after all these years. It is amazing how easy it is to get it back to factory fresh performance:classic:

Being the shy reserved type, I plan to transplant a baby Godzilla engine into my '73. It is the RB25DE with Variable Valve Timing. One day....one day....

From your profile I can't determine where you are from but, the fronts are planned to be ex-Commodore vented rotors with matching callipers. These bits go for a song when the factory upgrade a car to HSV specs. The brakes aren't new but they are hardly used when the car is driven from the factory line to the HSV workshop! The rotors (296 x 28mm) have been re-drilled for the 4 x 114.3 PCD and therefore are now "rotor over" as opposed to the stock "rotor under" design. Wheel studs have been replaced with 60mm Nismo items to cope with the additional 10mm thickness of the rotor. The callipers will need re-drilling to match the calliper mounting ears on the stock struts. They are twin piston alloy housings with a cast iron anchor. Lots of pics. on my Imagestation: - http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=4291183313 Here are a few teasers: -

The brackets were made up in my head at first then 6mm masonite, finally from 6mm plate. That plate thickness positioned the calliper dead centre over the rotor. R30 rear callipers are galaxies apart from the R31:rolleyes: The chief difference, and the best feature, is the R31 handbrake mechanism. It is just soooo simple and compact compared to anything but the shoe type mechanism you get on the Bluebird (or Commodore). The R31 rotor just slips on the rear hub where the drum used to be, same centre hole diam. of 68mm, and you mount the wheel up as normal. R31 setup as below: -

Some pics.

Trying for a pic.

Just a word of advice. When you fit the new floormetal, modify the re-inforcing channel that is welded beneath the floor. I had some new 2mm thick channels folded up by a local sheet metal shop that extended full length to the rear of the floor pan, not 1/2 way like the 240Z stockers do. These add quite markedly to the rigidity of the floor and can be enclosed or left open ended. It wasn't until sometime later that a friend of mine remarked that the 260Z channels were the same design. I didn't know this at the time but I guess I was on the same wavelength as Nissan re the problem

Unfortunately, it sounds like you scored some "not so new, very old stock":angry: I would try again, this time get some repro. items from one of the vendors, or Nissan if they are available. That way they will at least be new items and new technology if it applies. I give those little fellas a good massage of rubber conditioner to keep them like new.

I realise that this hardware may not be available to you in the States but, in Oz, a cheap, easy and effective rear disc conversion is done using the R31 Skyline callipers and rotors. I have posted a heap of pics. about this on the following Sony Imagestation site: - www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=4291183313 It is literally a bolton conversion, with minimum fuss:classic: This hardware required is plentiful here so let me know if you are interested.

Apparently, editting a post does not generate an email:finger:

:mad: I have had no joy uploading any pics. so I'll have to post them on the web. See: - http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=4291183313 If you need any more info. just email or PM.

I have done a couple of rear disc conversions using a custom bracket to mount R31 Skyline callipers to the hub flange. R31 disc rotors are also used. Can be done without pulling the stub axle (but after this many years, the bearings could probably do with replacing). The beauty of the R31 callipers is that they the simplest handbrake mechanism that I have ever seen (some calliper/handbrake setups are quite horrendous). I have several pics. if anyone is interested. Further, the inspection at Adelaides' Regency Park Depot, went without a hitch so I guess they were so factory looking that it didn't matter.