billcapp

check your ballast resistor

It should work just fine.

First thing I would do is to look under the dash to the left of the blower motor on the passenger side. There the valve controlling the heat resides. Make sure the valve lever moves as you move the control. Sometimes the wire inside the control cable will loosen in its captive holder located in front of the valve or in the locking screw barrel at the valve. If these instructions aren't clear ask again

One thing to not overlook, is the valve next to the heater core. Make sure it doesn't leak either (check the carpet for a wet spot). If it does leak it may draw in air as the coolant cools down, making it appear the coolant level at the radiator is still normal. The air will have a tendancy to block the water flow also. Do use the 160 thermostat if you are in NC. Hope this info is useful.

That really is a good question! I've often wondered myself how long is a reasonable time for a primed car to sit before painting. You are right the primer will soak up moisture if left for too long. I imagine where you live plays a big part in this also. Humidity, as in Florida, is a major problem even if the car is in a garage. And if you live in a dry climate and keep it in a garage I imagine you have plenty of time before protection is required. If anyone has an answer I'd like to know. Is there a primer/ sealer that would work? I think I saw this somewhere on this site before.

I plan on replacing the shovel handle I now use to hold up my hatch soon.. when I do get one from them I'll give you a report on it and if you don't find another source, I'd be happy to acquire one for you and ship it. Bill:bunny:

See the following from the Autozone website: MIGHTY-LIFT HATCH/HOOD/TRUNK LIFT SUPPORT for a 1971 NISSAN/DATSUN 240Z Unit Price: $34.99 Core Value*: $0.00 Part No.: B95704 Weight: 1.25 lbs. Warranty: LLT Availability: Online: Ships within 2 business days Store: Special Order :classic:

A car parts supplier here in the US (AutoZone) claims to have the part. You may try to get info and/or order online at autozone.com. This will fit all ZEDs that use only one support strut. Good luck..............:nervous:

Hey Okie, I feel for you. Good that is! I wish you the best in your new endevour. I'm sure you will do well. I wish I could do the same...I'm tired of the timeclock myself. Have lots of talents but not one heart throbbing desire to do the same thing all day long. Still...good luck!

So you need some help? I purchased a washer pump from my local AutoZone store. It was the exact replacement part and was very inexpensive (forget how much - but under$10). Check this site for parts for sale first. Hubcaps are available; depending on the quality you want the price will vary quite a bit. I will soon be posting all my unused parts for sale on this site when I get an inventory of them i.e. I have the original wheels and hubcaps along with a CA smog air pump, original steel fan and clutch, stock exhaust manifold as well as other parts. I did find that AutoZone carries quite a few replacement parts. I have purchased a starter, thermostat, washer, brake master, vacuum booster and other parts. They claim they have the replacement rear hatch strut also...which is hard to come by for the single hatch strut for the 70-73 or 74. Hope this helps also.

Watch this guy from Washington... , he may steer you wrong! NOT!!!! Escanlon has always been right on target. DO check out the fuse box first for corrosion. If you want to pull the fuse box it is a simple chore (one screw) just make sure the battery is disconnected. If the fuse box checks out the next most likely culprit would be the switch stick. That is another whole ballgame to tackle if you intend to disassemble it. If you are quite mechannically competent (ie. take things apart just to see how they work--and can put it back together in working order) then it isn't all that big a deal. I've taken mine apart down to the ball bearings in the switch (don't ask) to try to fix my running lights. The plastic piece inside was broke and not really repairable so I"ll be looking for a replacement. Good luck with your task and check back often if you need further assistance. This group is the BEST for help!!!

Enjoyed the video but I think the driver was being just a bit reckless in lane changing without signaling.

Zlishous, Great looking 240. Engine swap looks to be a really neat job. As for the 260..honestly I never cared for them as much...less power and more weight, but I'm sure it's OK for a DD.:tapemouth

How much did the paint job soak you and did you do it in totale (meaning did you strip it all inside and out with all interior removed or what).

Hi All, I recently boought a rebuilt head from a small shop for a really good price. Only problem is the head has surface rust on all the moving parts. Question is, is there any thing good enough out there to clean it without complete disassembly, or is it advisable to tear it down and then clean it...if so with what? The cam, springs, guides and all are light coated with rust. I'd like to use it this winter. Also, when it is cleaned what do I put on it to preserve it until I install it? TIA Bill

EScanlon; You never mentioned the reassembly of the lens to the frame. A couple of years ago I disassembled mine (almost exactly as you described) along with the cleaning. When I was ready to put them back together, I decided to use a bead of clear silicone. It worked really great and the slight exhaust smell I had is gone. I imagine there is some standard two-sided adhesive foam that can be purchased, but at the time I didn't know if anything was available. Anyway, that was an excellent well written post. I am sure the "club" and others will benefit from this.

I have purchased the VB exhast system with my hard earned dollars figuring to save by installing it myself. DON"T DO IT! After much cussin' and banged up hands, I had to give it up. It would not fit right. I finally caved-in to take it to a muffler shop to install it. After that the shop told me I wasted my money. It was easier and less costly to have him make a custom pipe to use with the kit muffler. He used aluminunized steel and welded the complete system (2 1/2 inch pipe). It came out excellent for fit. I ended up using only the header and muffler--threw the pipe in the trash. The sound is awesome though. for what it's worth.

I recently had my light switch go bad, but it didn't spark. I disassembled it to see if I could repair it and I did manage to do just that. I believe your switch IS shorted and draining the ignition circuit enough to make it die when you turn on the lights. It's best to remove the circuit plug from the switch, get a schematic and check it for a short. They aren't cheap to replace. You may want to check a junk yard if it needs replacing. Bill

Hey Guys, EScanlon about summed it up pretty well. For the past 20 years I have used the red and white rouge sticks on a cotton wheel on a variable speed drill. I have polished many differnet items including my valve cover the brake master lids to the containers along with other aluminum wheels. It hasn't taken more than a reasonable time to do the work. I found that over the years that if the material is in really baaad condition I would use a 1000 grit wet and dry paper first (lightly) to get it to a fairly smooth and clean point before using the rouge. well that's my 2cents.

What happened under the bumper? Looks like the turn signals are missing and the bottom cowl is different. Other than everyone elses comments, it's not all that bad for a non stock.:stupid: :stupid: :stupid: ...sorry...don't know what this ending means

2MANYZs had the best advice. I too had a problem drum. I just cleaned up the studs, applied penetrating oil and rapped it all around from behind and on the sides with a hammer and blocks of wood. Just keep at it; it will eventually come loose. Bill 71